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Description

The Northern Slabs is home to Booroomba's classic easier slab routes. Many of the routes are poorly protected by modern standards, with the potential for a long slide if you lose your grip, but most are protected against a groundfall at least. For fullsome route descriptions, gear beta and more check out the comprehensive PDF guide 'Booroomba Northern Slabs - A New Awakening' available here: http://canberraclimbing.org.au/routes--guides/climbing-guides.aspx

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Approach

The best way to the Northern Slabs is to take the central access track and skirt all the way under the North Buttress. From the look out walk left (looking out) along the cliff line and after about 50m there will be a steep gully trending back down and to the right towards the North Buttress.

Follow the track down the gully (it's pretty clear) and underneath Determinant Buttress then Central Slabs. At any cairned junctions take the left, low road. The track moves away from the rock after the Central Slabs, rejoining it at the right-hand edge of the Northern Slabs just left of Denethor / Counterbalance.

It is also possible to walk along the top track and find your way to the rap anchor at the top of 'Melmouth, near the 'Sunstroke topout. Two raps of around 35-38m are required, one 60m rope will not reach on the double, not sure about a 70m. The first downclimb of a rope is located at 35°33'20.5"S 148°59'46.0"E (google maps), the 'Melmouth anchor is located at 35°33'19.6"S 148°59'46.9"E.

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Descent notes

It's generally best to walk off along the ridge and back to the top lookout.

There is a rap anchor at the top of Melmoth. This is also accessible by walking left along a ledge from the top of Sunstroke. Two full 35m raps to ground.

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Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 * Denethor Trad 110m 4

A good introduction to slab climbing. Climbs the slabs and grooves bordering the right-hand end of the northern slabs. Start at a short, steep black slab just left of a damp overhang where the walking track rises after skirting below 'The Terrace'.

  1. 30m - Up the slab (crux) to a ledge. Pull over the bulge and up the easy slabby corner. Surmount the overlap and traverse right and up to belay at the left end of 'The Terrace'.

  2. 40m - Walk right about 7m then climb over blocks to a prominent groove. Climb the groove, which is awkward near the top, step left and up a short V-corner. Continue up blocks and slabs to belay on a comfortable triangular ledge on the right.

  3. 30m - Move left and climb the crack, thin seam and slabs to bushy ledge. Tree belay. A further 60 metres of easy slabs leads to the top of the buttress.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood (alt.), 1969

2
17 X In Cold Blood Trad 35m

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna. Head left and climb a shallow right-facing corner then move slightly right (crux - unprotected) and climb a shallow left-facing corner. Trend towards, then climb, a shallow groove for a few metres. At the lichen move right to finish up 'Denethor'. Can be top-roped from Denethor.

FA: Matthew Larkin & Glenn Jones, 1985

3
17 Fear of Frogs Mixed 45m, 1

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna.

Just another contrived slab. Arrang protection as for 'Peregrine' at the top of the juggy brown slab, then down-climb to the start of the white streak. (If top-roping head straight up a short vertical groove to the white streak.) Follow the white streak to a 10cm wide curving ledge at 27m (bolt as for 'Peregrine'). Continue up 'Peregrine'.

FA: Matthew Larkin, Patricia Blumstein & Glenn Jones, 1985

4
18 Peregrine Mixed 70m 2, 1

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna.

  1. 45m - head left as for 'Counterbalance' and up to the top of the juggy brown slab (about 20m). Head straight up the wall on small rounded edges to a 10cm wide curving ledge at 29m and a bolt (replacing a spike that fell off sometime in the 30 years after the first ascent). Climb a further 15m to a corner. Climb the corner and belay near bushes.

  2. 25m - Up the slab to a right-facing corner (about three metres right of the big flake on the top pitch of 'Balance'). Continue to the top.

FA: Matthew Larkin & Glenn Jones, 1985

5
14 ** Counterbalance Trad 120m 3

Slab climbing that is 'a little more serious' than 'Denathor' due to the scarce (but solid) protection on the second pitch. Start as for 'Denethor' (or skip the first pitch and start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna).

  1. 30m - Climb the short, hard slab, bulge and slabby corner above (as for 'Denethor) but instead of sticking right in the corner, head straight up the slab above a small overlap. Belay at the flake or on the ledge to the right.

  2. 45m - Up the juggy brown slab trending left to where the holds vanish, make a delicate move left to a small ledge. Up leftwards for 7m to a scooped recess. Follow shallow right-facing curving corners diagonally up and leftwards to double bolt belay next to a pointed block (shared with 'Steele Breeze' and 'Metal Fatigue').

  3. 47m - Climb the slab to the highest corner on the right side of the overlap. Up the short corner (possible to belay here), move right over blocks then trend right up the easy slabs to belay on a large bushy ledge.

FA: Tony Wood & J. Langford, 1969

6
17 * Solantic Mixed 160m 4, 2

A rising traverse of 'The Northern Slabs' from right to left, with some pleasant slab climbing on the second and third pitches. The second pitch is scarier to follow than to lead.

  1. 12m - Start as for 'Denethor'. Up the short black slab to a ledge belay.

  2. 40m - Delicately left along the vanishing ledge past the bolt on Balance (first crux) to the corner (gear). Continue left along the vanishing ledge (second crux), past a bolt (Stele Breeze), then easier climbing along more ledges to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge.

  3. 40m - Left along the ledge then up a few metres when it vanishes (as for 'Equilibrium'). Continue left to the first belay for 'Just in Passing' (V-shaped ledge?) then diagonally left and up (third crux) to belay under an overlap (shared with 'Bird of Prey').

  4. 25m - Left under the overlap and up to a 15cm ledge, then left around a small nose to a short corner. Climb the corner to the higher slab then diagonally left to trad belay on the ledge (shared with 'Sunstroke' P3).

  5. 40m - Climb the last pitch of 'Sunstroke'.

FA: Peter Riddy & Peter Cocker, 1974

7
18 * Balance Mixed 130m 3, 1

Start three metres left of 'Denethor'.

  1. 38m - Hard moves up the short black slab (crux) to a comfortable ledge at 8m. Traverse left until below the bolt then straight up to a bulge. (The first ascent traversed right here to easier ground, then up and back left to the belay). Straight up the bulge to the ledge then easily traverse left to double bolt belay.

  2. 48m - Diagonally right to join 'Counterbalance' at the top of the juggy brown slab. Make a delicate step left (as for Counterbalance) then straight up, passing a thin curving ledge. Trad belay on blocks at the top of the slab. (It's also possible to head left at the thin curving ledge and use the DBB of 'Counterbalance' et al.)

  3. 40m - Climb over blocks and ledges to a short corner. Up this to the prominent large flake. Undercling rightwards then up the edge. Trend right up the easy slab. Tree belay on ledge.

FA: Bill Wilson & R. Warder, 1974

8

danger

Straight up the slab six metres left of the original (at marked start), to the second belay. The first ascent saw a 12 metre slide. In fact most of this portion of slab has been climbed as variant starts. Unprotected.

FA: Mary Kensington & Peter Morris, 1977

9
20 ** Metal Fatigue Mixed 90m 2, 3

A fine direct slab. Start about 12 metres left of 'Balance' beneath two thin flakes.

  1. 45m - Up past the flakes, then trend slightly right past 3 bolts to the base of a prominent corner (runners). Exit left from the top of this, then over a bulge to a scoop and double bolt belay as for Balance.

  2. 45m - Straight up the brown slab behind the belay past 2 bolts, then more easily up the slab just right of the white water streak, passing another bolt. Double bolt belay on broken ledge shared with Counterbalance and Stele Breeze. John and Ray fatigued in 2015 allowing the additional metal, making the route now protected against ledge falls.

  3. 45m - Directly up the fine brown slab, and finish as for 'Balance'. Alternatively (40m): diagonally left up the slab to join the last pitch of Equilibrium at the overlap.

FA: John Smart & Ray Lassman (alt.), 1978

10

Two great pitches up 'The Northern Slabs'. Climb the first pitch of 'Metal Fatigue' and then traverse left to join the second pitch of 'Stele Breeze' at the bolt.

FA: Unknown

11
20 ** Stele Breeze Mixed 100m 3, 4

The catch-cry "if it's got a runner it's not bold" still applies to the charming and absorbing second pitch. Start as for 'Metal Fatigue'. With Roark's agreement bolts on P1 now protect against a ground fall.

  1. 45m (20) - Up past the two flakes, then up on scoops to the third bolt. Before you reach the corner traverse left past one more bolt (as for 'Solantic') to DBB as for 'Equilibrium'.

  2. 40m (20) - Spot the bolt runner on the skyline at about 2 o'clock. Diagonally right for 10m to a small area of broken rock. Continue to the bolt runner (placed on lead by Rick McGregor on the second ascent). Straight up left of the white water streak (RPs at half height) to easy ground. Diagonally right to double bolt belay on a broken ledge shared with 'Metal Fatigue' and 'Counterbalance'.

  3. 45m - as for 'Metal Fatigue'.

FA: Roark Muhlen, 1977

12
19 X Total Control Trad 45m

danger

Up the unprotected slab 3m left of 'Stele Breeze' at lighter coloured rock where it appears a large narrow flake has fallen off. Originally onsight soloed to 'allay boredom'! May be possible to top-rope with a long sling on the top bolt of 'Stele Breeze' P1.

Sustained climbing on small sharp edges up the light coloured rock for at least 15m before the angle eases, then trend left to eventually join the 'Solantic' traverse. DBB on the ledge as for Equilibrium.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & John Smart (solo), 1982

13
22 X * Rock Lobster Trad 90m 2

The first five metres is the crux, and may be impossible as the critical dinner-plate-sized mantleshelf flake peeled off sometime after the 2003 fires. The first pitch starts under the black slab six metres left of 'Stele Breeze'. The second pitch is still climable and can be toproped from a trad belay mid-way between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

  1. 45m (22+) - Straight up to join 'Solantic' and 'Stele Breeze' then left to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge. Leave your rack with your second.

  2. 40m (17) - Move right for 3 to 4 metres, find the nut placement that is the only pro, then straight up the slab just right of the dark brown water stain. The climbing eases off after 30m.

FA: Roark Muhlen & Paul Daniel, 1980

14
23 X Rounge Lizard Trad 40m

danger

Just another unprotected slab route to fill in the space. Start off some big flakes about 7m left of 'Rock Lobster' and 8m right of 'Tip Stripper'. It was inspected on top-rope before the first (solo) ascent.

Climb the slab above the large flake to the obvious scoops in the steep wall. Up the wall to easier ground then up, right of the lichen, to join Solantic near the belay.

FA: John Smart (solo), 1982

15
22 X Tip Stripper Mixed 38m, 1

Another gap filler, but with a bolt for a bit of variety. Up the slab then the steep wall left of the bolt (crux), over the bulge to easier ground. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1982

16
22 X * Basilisk Trad 38m

danger

Start about 6m left of 'Tip Stripper' and 7m right of 'Equilibrium Direct Start'. The line is about 4m right of a thin light brown water mark. Climb the slab to the break then up the steep wall (diabolical unprotected crux) to easier ground after a few metres. Can be top-roped from the Equilibrium belay.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1984

17

danger

A hard and better variation, with delicate friction climbing but no protection. Start 4m right and up from the original start of Equilibrium, on the top of a large flake. Climb the shallow groove moving right to the corner (crux) (there was once a poor branch runner here, but the tree has succumbed). Thin climbing to the break, then move left to the first light brown water streak. Up this to join Equilibrium at the traverse ledge. If you're on top-rope you can continue up the slab and traverse to the belay higher up.

FA: Roark Muhlen et al., 1976

18
17 *** Equilibrium Mixed 150m 4, 2

Quality climbing and relatively good protection make this one of the more popular routes in the area. The start is marked with a faint "E" and is located approximately 50m left of Denethor. This is around 10m right of Sunstroke.

  1. 50m (15*) A rope stretcher. Climb the left slainting groove for approximately 20m. Traverse right to sloping ledge and long break (cams). Head up the slab above to DBB rap station.

  2. 35m (17**) The money pitch. Traverse left and up to first bolt. Directly up to vertical break and 2nd bolt. Keep padding away to tree belay.

  3. 28m - Climb right along the overlap until you reach a wide crack. Up this to the slab above, and continue to the next overlap.

  4. 24m - Continue right along the slab to the corner then climb the overlap. This is now easier following the demise of an enormous flake. Move diagonally right on the higher slab to a short corner. Up this to tree belay. Walk off.

Various alternative finishes are possible from the top of P2: traverse right to join 'Counterbalance' or 'Balance'; traverse down and left to join 'Solantic'; or climb 'Grandad's Big Day Out'.

Rebolted 2011.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Peter Cocker, 1969

19
17 X * Entropy Trad 40m

danger

An unprotected variant of the second pitch of 'Equilibrium'. There are almost no handholds and it’s an enjoyable exercise in smearing if you top-rope it from somewhere between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

Climb the brown slab directly above the belay, moving right (or left) to avoid the lichen when the slab eases off.

Entropy was the result of Chris Largue not spotting the bolt when he first set off to climb Equilibrium! To pacify his whingeing seconds (in those days the belay was a single piton) he taped a sling over a rounded knob using tape from the handle of his hammer (the knob would probably hold a falling mouse).

It's harder than Equilibrium and unprotected unless you have really really sticky tape.

FA: Chris Larque, Damien Jones & Peter Mills, 1974

20
16 * Grandad's Big Day Out Trad 32m 2

Has an entertaining and unusual move in each pitch.

Start at the 2nd belay of Equilibrium.

  1. 18m - Step left 4m and climb the corner in the overlap (as for Tachyon). to the next slab. Spot the thin flake on the next overlap, at about 1 o'clock. Easily up the slab to belay near the flake.

  2. 14m - Climb the very thin slightly overhanging flake (strenuous) to the higher slab. Move right along the top edge of the flake for about 5m then up the third overlap to belay. Watch out for loose rock above the last overlap. Pitches can be combined but rope drag can be a problem.

FA: Brian Mattick & Peter Cunningham (alt), 2013

21
19 ** Just in Passing Mixed 85m 2, 1

Named because of the slide past the bolt on the first attempt. The first pitch is contrived, but the second is a fine direct slab climb. Start beneath a black slab midway between 'Equilibrium' and 'Sunstroke'.

  1. 50m - Up the slab to a recess at 12m, over a bulge then up the slab to join the Equilibrium groove above the point where Equilibrium traverses right. Up the groove to a bolt. Step right and up three metres to a short diagonal crack. Continue diagonally right to climb a vertical break then step left at the top for a semi-hanging belay on cams and nuts at roughly the same level as Equilibrium's first belay.

  2. 35m - Straight up slab above, passing a bolt. Belay at the overlap as for 'Equilibrium' P2. Finish as for 'Equilibrium'.

FA: Paul Daniel, Mike Law-Smith, John Smart & Geoff Robertson, 1982

22
9 ** Sunstroke Trad 120m 4

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

  1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

  2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

  3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

  4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Ian Raine, 1968

23

2b. 20m - From the first belay, climb the groove for six metres and traverse right to a parallel crack; climb this and the large blocks to a good stance. 3b. 25m - Move left across the slab, back to the main groove and third belay.

FA: Unknown

24
15 The Streaker Trad 36m

A variation finish to Sunstroke up the slab and headwall right of the final pitch. Although reported in Thrutch number 64 (September 1974) Tit wasn't recorded elsewhere until 2015. As a result it’s had few ascents and is marred by too much lichen. There are old bolts to mark the way but not really usable (or needed) with modern gear.

Start at the final (third) belay on Sunstroke. Start up Sunstroke then move right up the slab to below the overlap and old bolt runner. Climb the overlap (crux) and move left around the corner to the next wall and old bolt runner. Up wall to finish over right at the large block. Walk off as for Sunstroke.

FA: Dick Hain & Peter Grey, 1974

25
17 Sunday Stroll Trad 50m

Just what Booroomba needs - another route on 'The Northern Slabs'. Takes a fairly direct line between 'Sunstroke' and 'Bird of Prey'.

FA: Harry "Bumperbar" Luxford & Kevin Westren, 1984

26
17 ** Bird of Prey Trad 60m 2

Exposed friction climbing at its best. Start 15m left of 'Sunstroke' on or just to the left of a flake resting against the slab.

  1. 30m - Technical climbing up and left for 8m, step right to a small ledge at 14m, then easier climbing straight up to belay as for 'Sunstroke'.

  2. 28m - danger - superb but unprotected. Move right over blocky ground then left up a short steep ramp. Gather your courage, step onto the slab then straight up to belay at the overlap. Finish up 'Solantic', 'Hands Free', 'Tachyon', or 'Equilibrium'.

FA: Paul Daniel, John Carlson & Mike Peck, 1979

27
18 Hands Free Trad 35m

A balancy, exposed climb unfortunately marred by too much lichen. Start at the 2nd belay of 'Bird of Prey'. Take long slings to reduce rope drag.

Move left from the belay, then up and right to the slab above the belay. Climb right below the overlap then down and around the prow and up the slab until it’s possible to pull up left onto the higher slab. Easier climbing diagonally left to join Ephemeros at the 2nd belay (about 20m away).

FA: Brian Mattick & Robert Douglas, 2013

28
18 ** Sleepwalker Mixed 110m 4, 2

An absorbing traverse from left to right across the main slab, with a technical crux pitch. Start at the bottom of the small left-facing corner 20m left of Sunstroke and 5m left of Bird of Prey.

  1. 27m - Up the corner, step left past a bolt onto the slab, then trend righwards past a second bolt to belay on a slightly sloping ledge (first Sunstroke belay).

  2. 38m - A rising traverse right along the weakness (formed by fine-grain intrusion), to the first belay on 'Just in Passing'. Continue traversing right until you reach 'Equilibrium' then down-climb and traverse to DBB on the Equilibrium ledge.

  3. 30m - Crux. Right and up to the bolt (as for 'Stele Breeze' P2), then traverse delicately across the white water streak. Climb down and right to DBB hidden on the ledge (shared with Balance and Metal Fatigue).

  4. 27m - Traverse right straight across the slab to finish on 'The Terrace' (first belay on Denethor / start of Peregrine et al).

FA: Neil, Phil Montgomery (var.) & Donna Mrockowski, 1979

29
15 ** Ephemeros Mixed 75m 4, 3

A pleasant doddle. P1 makes an excellent alternative start to Sunstroke. Start at the slab 15m right of Tachyon.

  1. 25m - Straight up the slab past three bolts to trad belay at a ledge next to a corner (second belay on Sunstroke)

  2. 25m - Move right a few metres then up the slab. Up over a small roof at 20m then follow the crack slightly right to a small ledge. Continue up the crack and arete (or the easy slab on the right) to a good ledge and tree belay.

  3. 10m - Technically interesting and enjoyable. Climb the wall, moving diagonally right to the bushes, then on to another ledge to boulder-wrap belay. Alternatively, and more easily, move a few metres right and climb the short wall above. Traverse right and finish up a crack.

FA: Peter Sands & Tony Wood (var.), 1971

30
14 * Tachyon Trad 80m 4

A pleasant first pitch, then wanders all over the place. Take a map and compass. Start at the right-facing corner crack on the left edge of the main slabs.

  1. 24m - Layback the easy pleasant corner crack to the sloping ledge (second belay on Sunstroke).

  2. 43m - Diagonally right to blocks. Climb the left edge of the slab to the overlap (second belay on 'Bird of Prey') then continue right under the overlap and easily up to the second belay on Equilibrium.

  3. 35 metres - Climb the corner in the overlap (about 4m left of the belay) to the higher slab. Climb diagonally left to the second belay on Ephemeros.

  4. 10m - Finish up the last pitch of Ephemeros: climb the wall, moving diagonally right to the bushes, then on to another ledge to boulder-wrap belay.

FA: Peter Sands & Tony Wood (var), 1971

31
16 * Eagle Eye Direct Mixed 65m 3, 1

Pleasant, clean slab climbing on the upper pitches. Start 3m left of Tachyon below a prominent flake.

  1. 15m - Crux. Climb the large flake then up the slab past a bolt, then leftwards to the vegetated ramp. Belay behind a large flake.

  2. 15m - Climb the wall and slab above. Move right to belay on a ledge (shared with Sunstroke).

  3. 35m - Climb shallow corners immediately left of the twin Sunstroke cracks to the arete. Follow the arete to belay on the ledge as for Sunstroke.

FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood (#1), 1970

32
14 Eagle Eye Trad 130m

An utterly worthless girdle of this area, unless you're into reliving 1970s exploration. Start 15m left of Tachyon, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left. Wanders easily rightwards, up and down along the upper part of the Northern Slabs.

  1. 18m - Scramble up the vegetated ramp to the right and belay at the large flake or the first of the three gum trees near the top of the ramp.

  2. 28m - Climb over blocks to the wall. Up the wall (crux) and slab above moving to the right to the 3rd belay on Sunstroke.

  3. 20m - Climb Sunstroke for about 2m then traverse right along the slab (above the vegetated ramp) to belay at the trees (2nd belay on Ephemeros).

  4. 37m - A short down-climb to the slab then continue traversing right beneath the overlap and belay about 4m before this slab joins the slab that extends down to the bolt anchors on Counterbalance. Belay on nuts and cams (#0.4-#1) under the overlap.

  5. 24m - Continue 4m right along the slab to the corner (where the rockfall broke off) then climb the overlap. Move right on the higher slab to a short corner and climb (strenuous) to the vegetation to belay. This is the last pitch of Equilibrium.

FA: J. Langford & Tony Wood (alt.), 1970

33
11 Prohibition Trad 74m

An easy enjoyable slab on very coarse rock with a surprisingly exposed second pitch. Start 15m left of Tachyon and up through the scrub, where a vegetated ramp heads right and a crack/ramp heads left.

  1. 17m - Climb the leftward slanting crack to the foot of the ramp.

  2. 22m - Diagonally right on the slab above the ramp to a recess at 7m, then up (crux) trending slightly right to a ledge with a large, loose block.

  3. 45m - Straight up then slightly right to avoid the overlap. Continue steeply right to a horizontal crack. Above the crack either brave the lichen or move right slightly to join the final pitch of Eagle Eye Direct.

FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor, 1970

34
8 ** Drunken Delight Trad 80m

Worth the walk if you're not too hung-over, with amazing scoopy rock on the latter pitches. Start as for 'Prohibition'.

  1. 25m - Climb the left slanting crack and ramp as for 'Prohibition', but continue along the ramp until it levels off.

  2. 30m - Up the amazing scoopy/blocky white slabby rock above to a ledge and abseil anchors (you can finish here - walk right).

  3. 30m - Up the easy slab behind the belay.

FA: Tony Wood, K. Warner (var.) & A. George, 1970

35
21 Picnic Mixed 20m, 3

"For those who like the taste of something smooth, with a few crunchy bits for spice" - Paul Daniel. Start about 20m left of 'Tachyon' (8m left and downhill from 'Drunken Delight') where the vague track re-joins the cliff. Straight up for five metres, then step left and up to the second bolt. Tricky moves to get standing on the horizontal band, then delicately straight up to the big ledge to belay as for 'Prohibition' P1. 3 bolts in all.

FA: Paul Daniel & Mike Peck, 1985

36
22 X Bounty Trad 27m

A serious lead. Start 15 metres left of 'Picnic' at a short, thin indistinct crack. Climb the steep wall just left of the crack, stepping right to a runner beneath a bulge (#2 RP). Move up left towards the bulge then face climb right onto the slab. Traverse right to a scoop and second runner (small / medium nut e.g. #4 RP). Continue straight up to easier climbing. Belay on the ledge. Take your pick of the climbs to finish.

Can be top-roped from a belay left of the first belay of Aquanaut.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel & Noel Ward, 1986

37

An obvious line that looks a bit unpleasant and menacing. Surprisingly steep for the Northern Slabs.

Start 25m left of Picnic at a thin crack in a slab beneath a small overhang.

Up crack to overlap, climb overlap then either right or left to surmount the small overhang. Continue up the slab to the start of Aquanaut. Either finish up Aquanaut or scramble left along the vegetated ramp to return to the base of the cliff.

FA: Brian Mattick & Robert Douglas, 2013

38
9 * Aquanaut Trad 64m 2

Start 35m left of 'Prohibition' (and 10m past Aquanaut Direct Start) at a right-leading, vegetated ramp.

  1. 30m - Scramble up the ramp to a large flake (you can also start here - belay required), up this then the grippy slab to the ledge. Trade belay at the left end of a ramp, about 5m left of the first belay on 'Drunken Delight'.

  2. 38m - Up the slab keeping to the left edge of the white scoopy rock to a ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off right.

FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood, 1970

39
11 * Melmoth Trad 80m 2

Another easy slab, with small gear. Start 15m left of 'Aquanaut' at a wide, shallow groove with incipient cracks.

  1. 34m - Up the slab then the groove (crux) to a ledge and DBB.

  2. 27m - Easy climbing up the orange scoopy rock to the overlap. Climb the overlap then continue up the low-angled scoop and right to the ledge and abseil anchors. Finish up the third pitch of 'Drunken Delight' or walk off.

FA: J. Hoskins, 1971

40
11 Euripus Trad 83m

Parallel to 'Melmoth', starting about 10m to the left. Unlike Melmoth this route feels like a climb.

  1. 33m - Climb the slab moving slightly right to the crack. Up the crack then step right and climb easy slabs to trad belay on the ledge.

  2. 40m - Easily left to a large block below the black water streak. Climb the water streak then up the grippy slab to belay at the overlap.

  3. 10 metres - Climb the short wall on hollow rock. Walk off right.

FA: John Armstrong, 1971

41
14 Staircase Trad 45m

Start 30 metres up the hillside from 'Euripus' and about 10m left of the large block on its second pitch. To avoid the scrub bash to the start it is better to climb the first pitch of Euripus then traverse left along the ledge to below the break in the overlap.

Climb the short slab to the overlap. Climb the overlap on good holds then smearing (unprotected crux) up the slab trending left to a horizontal crack at 17m, then up the easier slab to a black water streak. Climb the water streak and belay off a block. Walk off right.

FA: J. Hoskins, 1971

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