Northern Slabs All Trad climbing42 routes in sector
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The Northern Slabs is home to Booroomba's classic easier slab routes. Many of the routes are poorly protected by sport climber standards, with the potential for a long slide if you lose your grip, but most are protected against a groundfall at least. For fullsome route descriptions, gear beta and more check out the comprehensive PDF guide 'Booroomba Northern Slabs - A New Awakening' available here: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/~canberra/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/booroomba-northern-slabs-guide.pdf©
The best way to the Northern Slabs is to take the central access track and skirt all the way under the North Buttress. From the look out walk left (looking out) along the cliff line and after about 50m there will be a steep gully trending back down and to the right towards the North Buttress.
Follow the track down the gully (it's pretty clear) and underneath Determinant Buttress then Central Slabs. At any cairned junctions take the left, low road. The track moves away from the rock after the Central Slabs, rejoining it at the right-hand edge of the Northern Slabs just left of Denethor / Counterbalance.
It is also possible to walk along the top track and find your way to the rap anchor at the top of 'Melmouth, near the 'Sunstroke topout. Two raps of around 35-38m are required, one 60m rope will not reach on the double, not sure about a 70m. The first downclimb of a rope is located at 35°33'20.5"S 148°59'46.0"E (google maps), the 'Melmouth anchor is located at 35°33'19.6"S 148°59'46.9"E.©
Ethic inherited from Booroomba Rocks
The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.
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