Ascents in Northern Slabs having Beta

We planned for Jannice to lead pitches 1 and 3, and I would lead pitches 2 and 4, but Jannice ended up running pitch 1 and 2 together (which is also what happened the first time I climbed this route as a seconder).

Jannice ran pitches 1 and 2 together.

When planning this route, I deliberately asked not to lead pitch 3, as the overhung start made me nervous. It ended up being really good for me that Jannice accidentally ran pitches 1 and 2 together, leaving me to lead this pitch. The overhung block start is much easier than it looks, with plenty of protection. I actually found the steepening groove/crack section after the start much harder and more interesting, and was very pleased with my clean and measured lead through there. Jannice and Penny had very validating reactions when they seconded that section.

Jannice did not find an anchor point to her satisfaction, and wandered off far left back to the Melmoth rap point to finish the climb.

Really enjoyable slanting crack/slab combo at the start. Your upper body is crack climbing and your lower body is slab climbing. I found lots of comfortable jams with my right hand that complimented some careful slab footwork very well. Plenty of protection on this pitch.

Fun, interesting, easy terrain through the scoopy white and brown marbled rock in the middle of the cliff. Lots of possible beta options and minor variations through this section. Protection more sparse than the first pitch but not uncomfortably so.

We did not do the third pitch.

The shallow flared cracks at the start of the route are difficult to fit anything into. Offset nuts would be useful here. I didn't get a piece in until I was 8-10m off the deck. Very, very delicate and focused slabwork, especially when there's no good pro. Thankfully I was able to keep my head on straight, if I had panicked I probably would've ended up decking it. Jannice informed me on the car ride home that she got to work with removing sharp branches in the brush behind her to reduce my chances of getting impaled if I did end up taking a ground fall. Very thoughtful of her and telling of how stressful it was for her as well, and thankfully I generated only upward momentum.

Blessedly at the top of the main slab crux section is a much easier slab walk with actual handholds, but still nothing in the way of pro until you get to the blocks. This is where some offset cams would have been very useful. Plenty of anchor-building options.

Jannice's pitch was maybe only slightly easier than mine but somehow even less protected.

Proud of us for having done it and keeping our heads together, but if I never repeat this route as long as I live it will be too soon.

A fun little warmup stroll with nice bolted protection. The only thing that makes this part a little sketchy feeling is how hollow some of the rock sounds on the lower part. Didn't break anything though.

Pretty easy climbing, not too scary at all, though I kind of wish we built the anchor a little higher than the tiny dead tree, as could have potentially had a flatter ledge to sit on during it.

I think we might have technically gone a touch right of the main line here near the end, not that it makes much difference overall.

This was probably the only pitch that felt like I had to put in some hard work on a few moves, and definitely didn't feel as comfortable/sure of myself on a few of those moves. Still pretty fun but, and good way to put in a little effort before heading home for the day.

Manage to avoid breaking anything down low

Think I linked what used to be pitch 2 and 3 together, little bit run out at times, but at very easy climbing.

Some harder fun moves right at the end.