The shallow flared cracks at the start of the route are difficult to fit anything into. Offset nuts would be useful here. I didn't get a piece in until I was 8-10m off the deck. Very, very delicate and focused slabwork, especially when there's no good pro. Thankfully I was able to keep my head on straight, if I had panicked I probably would've ended up decking it. Jannice informed me on the car ride home that she got to work with removing sharp branches in the brush behind her to reduce my chances of getting impaled if I did end up taking a ground fall. Very thoughtful of her and telling of how stressful it was for her as well, and thankfully I generated only upward momentum.
Blessedly at the top of the main slab crux section is a much easier slab walk with actual handholds, but still nothing in the way of pro until you get to the blocks. This is where some offset cams would have been very useful. Plenty of anchor-building options.
Jannice's pitch was maybe only slightly easier than mine but somehow even less protected.
Proud of us for having done it and keeping our heads together, but if I never repeat this route as long as I live it will be too soon.
After climbing this route I'm a bit baffled by the two stars on it. The lack of protection on this route is frightening. I guess if you really get a kick out of flirting with fate then those two stars are for you. I got 4 pieces into my pitch and Jannice only got 2 in hers.
I would highly recommend some offset nuts and small offset cams for this route - they might be the gear needed to reduce it from a brown trouser situation to more of a comfortable wet pantleg situation.
Jannice led the second pitch. 40m seems long for this pitch. The midpoint of my 60m rope was in my belay device when she called for me to take her off belay, and I'm pretty confident she was in the right spot.
We did not do the third pitch, which was specifically mentioned to be unprotected and seemed quite unnecessary when there is a straightforward walk/scramble off to the right.
- with
J Banks
I would highly recommend some offset nuts and small offset cams for this route - they might be the gear needed to reduce it from a brown trouser situation to more of a comfortable wet pantleg situation.
Jannice led the second pitch. 40m seems long for this pitch. The midpoint of my 60m rope was in my belay device when she called for me to take her off belay, and I'm pretty confident she was in the right spot.
We did not do the third pitch, which was specifically mentioned to be unprotected and seemed quite unnecessary when there is a straightforward walk/scramble off to the right.