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Description

This area is made up of five small buttresses, and the safest scree slope is central. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it. Take care as some of the rocks are loose. All routes have been cleaned but some lichen and loose rock may still be encountered.

© (hotgemini)

Approach

This next crag is 600m from Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road.

© (hotgemini)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following routes can be accessed by turning right at the bottom of the access path. Climbs are listed from left to right.

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

FA: Henk Morgans & Peter Jones, 2010

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral reef.

FA: Henk Morgans & Peter Jones, 2010

Start 2 metres to the right of rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall. Lower off.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Colin Carstens, 2008

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

FA: Matt Butler & Colin Carstens, 2008

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

2m L of HITHP. 8 RBs. One of the best 18 grades at the cliff. A little pumpy before the roof-let, but has some great moves for the grade and is very well protected.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2010

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuring.

FA: Graham Page & Clint Westbrook, 2008

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to Double U-bolt belay (shared with Snake Charmer).

FA: Lara Masselos, 2008

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of 'One Legged Dog'.

Start around the corner (right side of small cave) and follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of One Legged Dog.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

The following routes are accesses by turning left at the bottom of the access track. Climbs are listed from left to right.

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chasers lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

FA: Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford, 2010

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

FA: Graham Page & A Dodson, 2006

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Debont, 2009

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

FA: Herb Brandemeir & John Debont, 2009

FFA: Steve Kloske & Elissa Jack, 2012

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

FA: Graham Page & Phil Box, 2008

Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broke off the start, increasing the grade.

FA: Colin Carstens & Mark Godsell, 2008

Heel hook start quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

FA: G Page & A Dodson., 2006

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB

FA: G Page & A Dodson., 2007

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2013

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off.

FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008

Start 2 meters right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

FA: Antoine Mousette, 2010

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

FA: Graham page & Adam Dodson, 2007

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

FA: G Page & A dodson

Similar start as to ROP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

FA: Grama Page / Adam Dodson, 2007

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RBs to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

FA: Charlie Lewis & Cameron Dougin, 2007

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering of Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, or accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), and trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. In Black Strump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jams and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesdays. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably an awful climb not worth doing.

FA: Miguel Madero. Carina Casco handing him a shoe to downclimb, 2012

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

FA: Gordon Baudino & Colin Carstens, 2008

Starts 2m left of Crack Whore. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBCWG

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

FFA: Graham Page, Charlie Lewis, Clint Westbrook & Mclovin, 2008

Activity

Check out what is happening in Black Stump Buttresses.