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This area is made up of five small buttresses, and the safest scree slope is central. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it. Take care as some of the rocks are loose. All routes have been cleaned but some lichen and loose rock may still be encountered.

© (hotgemini)


This next crag is 600m from Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road.

© (hotgemini)


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Left Buttresses

The following routes can be accessed by turning right at the bottom of the access path. Climbs are listed from left to right.

21 Coral Reef Sport 12m, 5

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

FA: Henk Morgans & Peter Jones, 2010

21 * Rename Sport 10m, 5

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral reef.

FA: Henk Morgans & Peter Jones, 2010

18 * Bio-organic plasma gun Sport 13m, 5

Start 2 metres to the right of rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall. Lower off.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

15 * Orchid Lane Sport 14m, 5

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Colin Carstens, 2008

14 * Found the Salt Sport 13m, 5

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

FA: Matt Butler & Colin Carstens, 2008

Unknown Sport 18m

An unknown route to the left of PP. Looks chossy, with some questionable bolt placements. Climber beware if you attempt this.

18 ** Pink Panzer Sport 17m

2m L of HITHP. 8 RBs. Looks poxy.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2010

21 * Hand in the honey pot Sport 18m, 6

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuring.

FA: Graham Page & Clint Westbrook, 2008


Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008

18 ** Annabelistic Sport 18m, 7

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to Double U-bolt belay (shared with Snake Charmer).

FA: Lara Masselos, 2008

16 * Snake Charmer Sport 18m, 7

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

13 * One Legged Dog Sport 18m, 7

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

14 * The Dog's Paw Sport 15m, 6

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of 'One Legged Dog'.

Start around the corner (right side of small cave) and follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of One Legged Dog.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

Right Buttresses

The following routes are accesses by turning left at the bottom of the access track. Climbs are listed from left to right.

13 ** Crack Chaser Trad 16m

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chasers lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

FA: Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford, 2010

16 ** Sun Chaser Sport 15m, 4

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

FA: Graham Page & A Dodson, 2006

16 * Via the rainbow Sport 12m, 6

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Debont, 2009

20 R * Foreign Exchange Sport 10m, 6

Bad bolts galore!! Be careful.

FA: Herb Brandemeir & John Debont, 2009

21 Sand in your pants Sport 16m

FFA: Steve Kloske & Elissa Jack, 2012

21 * Spider Fingers Sport 15m, 5

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

FA: Graham Page & Phil Box, 2008

20 * Spike Sport 15m

Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broke off the start, increasing the grade.

FA: Colin Carstens & Mark Godsell, 2008


Heel hook start quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

FA: G Page & A Dodson., 2006

21 ** Spank the Monkey Sport 15m, 5

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB

FA: G Page & A Dodson., 2007

22 * Oniondated Sport 10m, 3

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2013

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014

25 *** Little Wednesday Sport 8m, 6

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off.

FA: Graham Page & Colin Carstens, 2008

26 * Big Friday Sport 12m, 6

Start 2 meters right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

FA: Antoine Mousette, 2010

19 * Passage Sport 15m

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB.

FA: Graham page & Adam Dodson, 2007

21 * Right Of Passage Sport 15m

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

FA: G Page & A dodson

20 ** Dreamcatcher Sport 15m

Similar start as to ROP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

FA: Grama Page / Adam Dodson, 2007

24 ** Shake and Bake Sport 15m

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RBs to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

FA: Charlie Lewis & Cameron Dougin, 2007


After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering of Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, or accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), and trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. In Black Strump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jams and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesdays. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably an awful climb not worth doing.

FA: Miguel Madero. Carina Casco handing him a shoe to downclimb, 2012

17 ** The Enticer Sport 14m, 5

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

FA: Gordon Baudino & Colin Carstens, 2008

15 * French Bandit Sport 12m, 4

Starts 2m left of Crack Whore. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBCWG

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010


Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

FFA: Graham Page, Charlie Lewis, Clint Westbrook & Mclovin, 2008


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