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Description

The largest crag at brooyar both in number of climbs and in height, with the main wall some 45 metres in height.

Numerous routes offer long moderate climbs to short crimpy overhung affairs in the mid-20s.

© (hotgemini)

Approach

Park at the large carpark immediately adjacent to the lookout. The most direct access to the climbing is to walk back down the road towards the campground about 50 metres and then follow the light footpad to the cliffs.

© (hotgemini)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Lilliputian Trad 6m

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

2
14 Giftzwerg Trad 8m

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

3
14 Rumpelstilzchen Trad 7m

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

4
14 R Piccolo Trad 6m

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

5
14 Unknown Route 1 Sport 8m

Up the well protected blunt arete, steeper than it looks. Please update with the name if you know.

6
11 Unknown Route 2 Sport 10m

Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top.

7

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives...

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

8
15 Miss Manners Sport 20m, 5

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

FA: Sam Cujes, 2009

9
15 Miss Kandy Kane Sport 20m

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RBs to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999

10
23 ** Fatman Scoop Sport 20m, 4

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

11
23 * Spoonmate Sport Project 21m, 7

Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge.

Set by Antoine Moussette, 2010

Heggs Ledge

The next few climbs start from the legde and can be accessed by scrambling up to the start of 'Fatman Scoop'; left of 'Miss Kandy Kane'.

The climbs down the left end can also be done as a continuation from 'Digit Crucifixion'

12
23 Tally-Ho The Fox Trad 25m

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

FA: Herb Brandmeier Paul wright, 1991

13

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

14
18 ** Up a Rat in a Drainpipe Sport 20m, 7

A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UBs and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).

Start: Belay from bolts on ledge.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

15
17 ** Free Range Heggs Sport 20m, 8

Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing 'Digit Crucifixion' or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BRs have been replaced with hangars.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

The next two climbs start from the ground and finish at the ledge.

16
18 * Digit Crucifixion Mixed 10m, 1

Tough start.

Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

17

Short and sweet.

Start: Starts off the large block.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

Blinky Bill Wall

The next two climbs are found by going down and then left (facing away from the cliff) from the base of 'Digit Crucifixion'.

18
23 Bosnian Broth Sport 7m, 2

The L route with two Rbs. The topout mantle is interesting.

FA: Saul Squires, 1996

19

The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.

FA: Aubury Carter, 1997

Back up on the main wall.

20
19 *** Looking For The Sun Mixed 40m, 4

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crackline. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

21
13 Meandering Maze Unknown 35m
22
17 * Send Me an Angel Sport 40m, 11

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs.

FA: Graham Page & Clint Westwood, 2000

23
16 * The Pioneer Sport 40m, 11

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steap finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998

24
11 Lichenous Fury Trad 6m

Little trad climb.

Take a big cam

Start: Below the starting boulder of '2 For Tea'

FA: M schimke & C ryan, 2008

25
14 2 For Tea Sport 35m, 10

Now fully bolted with rings. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998

26
15 Tea for 2 Sport 35m, 10

Now fully bolted with rings.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998

27
17 ** 2,4,5 T Sport 42m, 7

Nicest of the three.

Start: Start at right of tree at end of corridor

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998

28
17 * Little Ray Of Sunshine Sport 45m, 10

10 bolts

FA: G Page & D O'Flaherty

29

Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS. Up slings and natural gear

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

30

Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock.

Now a fully bolted sport route.

31
16 Chicken Wings Sport 15m, 5

Start: Start 4 metres left of CAC

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

32
18 Prima Diva Sport 8m, 3

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

33
22 Prima Donna Sport 8m, 3

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002

34
25 Lithgow Layback Sport 15m, 3

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.

FA: Hayden, 2004

35

FA: Hayden, 2004

36
23 Who Is On First! Trad 15m

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2000

37

The small roof to the right of CH. Closed project.

38
21 ** Celluloid Hero Sport 15m

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

39
17 The Skirt Trad 15m
40
19 Leave No Tern Unstoned Mixed 13m, 2

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Do it. Good. Now climb the blocky corner on natural gear to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall (BR and FH). Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out (a chain is needed here).

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

41
26 The Time is Right Sport 15m

Start 2m R of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. Crank around the lip and climb up to DBB..

Set by Steve Kloske & Henk Morgans

FA: Steve Kloske & Henk Morgans

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

42

FA: Graham Page, 2009

43
16 * Pantsed Trad 20m

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

44
Unknown Sport 15m

An unfinished project to the right of Woosah on slab. Has a black diamond sling threaded through first ringbolt. Bolting is unfinished, as it needs a second bolt and anchor.

45
21 Woosah Variant Unknown 25m

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

FA: Graham Page

46
24 Woosah Sport 25m

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right (ignore the two bolts out left up the small seam, they need to be removed). Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

FA: Graham Page

47
22 ** Johnny Gun Sport 15m, 4

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BRs), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1997

48

Scramble up to starting platform as per the next route, and continue scrambling up the gully a little. Stick clip first bolt on left wall of the gully. Climb the right trending rings to high anchor at the top of the wall.

49
20 Hanging Gardens Sport 20m

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.

50
21 Mr Tinder Sport 18m

The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor.

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

51
19 Love Hurts Sport 16m

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

52
20 Community Sport 17m, 4

climb up fro corner trending rght to pull the lip out left past 4 RBs to anchor on large ledge.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

53
25 The Great Knut Sport 18m

climb left from the corner then blast straight up the passing several RBs until you reach the DBB

FA: Steve Kloske & The Great Knut, 2014

54
17 Prospector Unknown 20m
55
Inspector Unknown 20m
56
11 The Big Nothing Trad 7m

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

57
10 Treason Trad 7m

FA: Matt Schimke

58
26 Crimp And Dyno Sport 7m
59

Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree. V5 or 26

FA: Hayden, 2004

60
23 * Stepping Stone Sport 10m, 3

Feeling kinda sporty?

Start: The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête.

FA: Albury Carter, 1997

61
19 The Dog's Day Off Trad 10m

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

62
20 * Let's Bail Trad 10m

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty., 1993

63
20 Bust A Move Mixed 10m, 4

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

FA: G Page, 2004

64
17 X (Unknown 2) Trad 15m

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

65

Shallow orange corner. BRs.