Route Grade Style Popularity
1
DH3
2m R of AWITG . Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.
22 R
Trad 6m
2
A walk in the garden
More like wading through compost. Stay away.
Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.
15
Trad 10m
3
DH4
Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC . Recently rebolted with three FH's to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.
21
Sport 7m
4
The Dirty Corner
Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.
17
Trad 8m
5
Coexisting With Insanity
The orange arête 1m L of TDC . 2 FH's to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.
FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep,
21
Sport 8m
6
Thanks For The Fish
2m L. Grade 17 leaders will find the start requires a stern crank. Up wall past a two BR's before trending L to DBB. You might as well finish at the top of the cliff though.
17
Sport 10m
7
Green eggs and spam
In between TFTF and BED , three FH's to chain. Herb retrobolted an old saul squires solo route.
21
Sport 8m
8
Book Em' Danno
3m L of TFTF . First climb to the R of the descent gully. Starts a couple of metres left of TFTF at the small corner. Crux is down low. Up slabby wall past two BR's and DBB to overhung juggy top. The top out finish is apparently 16.
FA: Dani Geraghty et al, 1993
15
Sport 10m
9
Inspiration
The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.
16
Trad 8m
10
Tests And Titosterone
Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.
10
Trad 9m
11
Sweetness And Light
The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.
12
Trad 10m
12
Angel Dust
"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.
21
Trad 15m
13
Uzis On Speed RHV
After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.
19
Trad 18m
14
Uzis On Speed
Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with Rbs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and Rb to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final Rb (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).
21
Trad 15m
15
Sea Of Fools
A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT 's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top.
FA: Andy Anderson et al, 1993
22
Trad 15m
16
Ship Of Tools
As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête (BR). Up this exposed arête.
FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993
22
Trad 15m
17
Herb's Hammer
Chalked undercling and jugs (FH) to R-hand dyno. Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arête past a BR), alternatively gain an extra star by finishing up SOF 's pocketed headwall.
Start: Start from boulder 2m L of SOT
FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991
22
Sport 10m
18
Hate Crimes
A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT . Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight.
FA: Saul Squires, 1993
23
Trad 15m
19
Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell
A contrived variant finish to HC . Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.
FA: Saul Squires, 1993
25
Trad 15m
20
Herb's And Spices
Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing
FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991
21
Sport 15m
21
Mr Medium Man
1m L of HAS and just R of the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.
FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993
23
Sport 15m
22
No Ethics
Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - totally unacceptable). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.
23
Sport 15m
23
No Scruples
More herb unethical chipping.
FA: Herb Brandemier,
23
Sport 15m
24
Herb's In The Fernery
A great introduction to steep brooyar leading.
18
Sport 15m
25
New Day Rising
A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS . Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a BR and two FH's to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final BR to a DBB.
FA: Dani Geraghty & Saul Squires, 1993
16
Sport 15m
26
The End Is Nigh
10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three BR's.
FA: Keri Green & Dani Geraghty, 1993
13
Sport 12m
27
Herbal Tea
A tough off-balance crux sequence leads to easier headwall. Three FHs to anchor.
FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991
21
Sport 10m