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Description

A great small crag with a real intimate and cosy feel. Lots of enjoyably varied and intricate climbs in the low 20s.

© (hotgemini)

Approach

About 100 metres past point pure coming from the campground. Greene road turns off to the left, park off to the side near this intersection but DO NOT go down Greene ROAD. Instead follow the small footpad past the sign indicating the Green lane abseiling points.

© (hotgemini)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 R DH3 Trad 6m

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

2

More like wading through compost. Stay away.

Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.

3
21 ** DH4 Sport 7m

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FH's to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

4
17 The Dirty Corner Trad 8m

Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.

5

The orange arête 1m L of TDC. 2 FH's to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

6
17 Thanks For The Fish Sport 10m

2m L. Grade 17 leaders will find the start requires a stern crank. Up wall past a two BR's before trending L to DBB. You might as well finish at the top of the cliff though.

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Keri Green, 1993

7

In between TFTF and BED, three FH's to chain. Herb retrobolted an old saul squires solo route.

FFA: Saul Squires (Solo), 1993

8
15 Book Em' Danno Sport 10m

3m L of TFTF. First climb to the R of the descent gully. Starts a couple of metres left of TFTF at the small corner. Crux is down low. Up slabby wall past two BR's and DBB to overhung juggy top. The top out finish is apparently 16.

FA: Dani Geraghty, Keri Green, Saul Squires, 1993

9
16 Inspiration Trad 8m

The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

10

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

11

The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

12
21 Angel Dust Trad 15m

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

13
19 Uzis On Speed RHV Trad 18m

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

14
21 ** Uzis On Speed Trad 15m

Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with Rbs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and Rb to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final Rb (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, 1993

15
22 ** Sea Of Fools Trad 15m

A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top.

FA: Andy Anderson, Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty, 1993

16
22 * Ship Of Tools Trad 15m

As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête (BR). Up this exposed arête.

FA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty, 1993

17
22 ** Herb's Hammer Sport 10m

Chalked undercling and jugs (FH) to R-hand dyno. Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arête past a BR), alternatively gain an extra star by finishing up SOF's pocketed headwall.

Start: Start from boulder 2m L of SOT

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

18
23 ** Hate Crimes Mixed 15m, 4

A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

19

A contrived variant finish to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

20
21 * Herb's And Spices Sport 15m

Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

21
23 Mr Medium Man Sport 15m

1m L of HAS and just R of the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

22
23 No Ethics Sport 15m

Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - totally unacceptable). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.

23
23 No Scruples Sport 15m

More herb unethical chipping.

FA: Herb Brandemier

24

A great introduction to steep brooyar leading.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

25
16 New Day Rising Sport 15m

A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a BR and two FH's to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final BR to a DBB.

FA: Dani Geraghty & Saul Squires, 1993

26
14 * Tom's Turnips Trad 15m

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 17th May

27
13 The End Is Nigh Sport 12m

10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three BR's.

FA: Keri Green & Dani Geraghty, 1993

28
21 Herbal Tea Sport 10m

A tough off-balance crux sequence leads to easier headwall. Three FHs to anchor.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991