Hammerhead Rock All sport climbing

7 routes in cliff

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Description

Mini crag with several short but fun sport routes good for beginner to intermediate climbers.

All routes are well protected with u-bolts (UBs in the descriptions). Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach

Walk or drive about 200m down Green Lane, which turns off the main 'Brooyar' road between 'Green Lane' and 'Point Pure'. The crag is obvious just off the road up to the left. Take care not to block the road when parking.

Descent Notes

All climbs have double bolt belays (DBBs in the descriptions) at the top for easy lowering / top belaying.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Irukandji Sport 7m, 2

Start on the small buttress with a block balanced on top at the the L-most end of the cliff.

Climb up and onto the perched block. 2 UBs & DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

2
18 Not On Porpoise Sport 8m, 4

Start just L of the small cave, 3m R of 'Irukandji'.

Pumpy moves trending R past 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'Chironex'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

3
18 Chironex Sport 8m, 3

Start just R of the small cave, 3m R of 'Not On Porpoise'.

Fun moves up steep rock. 3 UBs to DBB shared with 'NOP'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

The remaining 4 climbs are about 20m R of 'Chironex' on the tall buttress with a slab apron at its base.

4
18 Hook Line And Sinker Sport 10m, 5

Start up L side of slab apron.

Up slab then a nice layback crux through steeper terrain before another slabby section. 5 UBs, last 2 of which are shared with 'Becalmed'. Finishes at DBB shared with 'Becalmed' & 'Grey Nurse'.

FA: Chris Gibson, 2009

5
16 Becalmed Sport 13m, 6

Start at apex of slab apron, 4m R of 'Hook Line And Sinker'.

Up deceptively tricky slab past 2 UBs to vertical wall. Straight up wall past 2 further UBs before joining 'HLAS' at its 2nd last UB. DBB shared with 'HLAS' & 'Grey Nurse'.

FA: John Martin, 2009

6
15 Grey Nurse Sport 10m, 5

Start in chimney 5m R of 'Becalmed'.

Chimney up and out to L. Clip UB then traverse L to middle of vertical wall. Straight up past 4 UBs to ledge. 5 UBs total. DBB shared with 'Hook Line And Sinker' & 'Becalmed'.

FA: Alice Fletcher, 2009

7
20 ** Catch Of The Day Sport 10m, 5

Start as for 'Grey Nurse'.

Head straight up face after clipping 1st UB shared with 'Grey Nurse'. Nice moves up corner in 2nd half to below roof then an exhilarating push through roof to finish at DBB on prow. 5 UBs total. Great climbing and almost as fun to watch!

FA: Sam Cujes, 2009