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Description

A varied and good-quality crag with numerous moderate routes and easy access.

© (hotgemini)

Approach

Park in the large, obviously signed 'Point Pure' look-out carpark, walk 500 metres to the look-out, turn left and follow path around to gully and into the right-most end of the crag.

© (hotgemini)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 The Forgotten Name Sport 12m

Start R of DJA. Four BR's with a slight left trend in the top half. Tricky start and finish.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2004

2

Start as for the original. At second BR, move R to break (gear) then up to BR and top.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne, Ben Carter, 2004

3

More forgettable climbing on the access path.

Start: Just right of obvious overhang.

FA: Saul Squires and Dave Whitworth, 1993

4
16 R Over De'void Sport 15m

moderate but runout climbing on wall adjacent to the devoid cave.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

5
22 *** The Great Devoid Sport 15m

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely africa shaped plate.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

6
24 ** Pipeline Sport 15m, 5

1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipeline feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip. Then up to recently installed rap station

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

7
25 * Losing Fingers Sport 8m, 3

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

8

Continue past anchor, and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Henk Morgans, 2013

9
25 ** Yellow Country Teeth Sport 8m, 4

A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

10
27 * Nosferatu Sport 10m, 4

Climb up the sharp arete on some cool pockets. Take a deep breath and get greeted by a insane, fun(type 2) lip boulder problem. The lip makes this a cool little route to try. The mono is not in, that is an old drill hole that needs patching. Originally bolted by G Page and Chucky. Many thanks to them for their hard work and vision.

Set by Graham Page and chucky, 2009

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 2014

11

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

FA: Joe Driver, 2009

12
25 Barroom Brawl Sport 7m

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

FA: Phil Box, 2008

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2010

FA: Tom O Hallaran, 2010

13
19 Unleash the Swarm Sport 15m, 5

Starting on little platform, up into awkward corner and sandy ear past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, Chris Gibson, Alice Fletcher, JJ O'Brien, 2008

14
19 * Reid Mixed 15m, 3

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

FA: Guy Pearce; Chester, 2nd Guy Pearce, 1990

15
22 * Sinister Exaggerator Sport 15m, 4

Balancy, Gritty, Sloping Slab with slight bulge at start.

Start: Start near tree 3 metres left of Reid, climb on and just right of rounded sloping arete.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

16
22 Figjam Trad 8m

Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one. The top needs a clean.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1990

17
21 DH1 Trad 4m

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

18
23 DH2 Trad 6m

A variant to a 4 metre route?

19
18 Stone Merino Trad 15m

this climb is actually called stone merino

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

20
25 ** Pebbles Sport 22m, 6

Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RB's to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.

FA: Craig Pohlman Andrew Audsley, 2004

21
28 *** Perverse Pyschology Sport 28m, 7

Starts up pebbles and arches left across the wall to Reverse Pyschology's anchor

Set by Alex Turnbull, Daniel Gordon & Jonathon Schwartz, 2013

FFA: Sam Bowman, 2014

22

Climb the flaming vag of mordor to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of reverse psych. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Set by Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, 2012

23

Climb reverse psych and then blast right out of the off width into the pebble belt. finishes the same as 'di brenender mush don mordor'. Gonna be awesome, get on it.

Set by Lee cujes, Dan gordon, damo rua and alex Turnbull, 2012

24
31 ** The flaming vag of mordor / mordor Sport Project 15m, 5

Open project starting up bolts R of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Set by Daniel Gordon, Damo Rua & Alex Turnbull, 2012

FFA: Sam Bowman, 6th Oct

25
27 * Reverse Psychology Sport 15m, 5

Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness (RB) to break. Crack takes #3 camalot and/or your biggest wire. Final sandy crack past last RB leads to rap station. Was first climbed in the wet, so the top still needs a thorough cleaning.

Start: Walk along ledge to access.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

26
25 Lower Tier Sport 9m, 4

On the Steep wall under Reverse Psychology ledge.

Set by Antoine Moussette & Graham Page, 2013

FA: Henk Morgans, 2013

27
21 * The Missing Link Sport 8m

Links into the classic grade 13 'The great barrier reef'.

Start: Start at furthest protruding part of ledge at DBB.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1991

28

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

FA: Dave Whitworth and Michael Long, 1993

29
24 Tight As A Drum Sport 30m, 5

A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FH's and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

FFA: Lee & Sam Cujes, 2008

30
18 * The Cornflake Climb Sport 20m

Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big pocket, is visible from the ledge.

Start: Start at left end of overhang below overhanging block.

31
15 * Coco Pops Sport 30m, 7

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

32
15 MD Sport 30m, 8

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

33
16 Cold Fusion Sport 20m

Start 2m right of ICSJ. Easily climb up to ledge, before it steepens and moves left across face on rings to a blank and intimidating finish. This route used to move right at the top, but has been retro bolted so that it moves left taking in as much hard climbing as it can. Grade is not confirmed now.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 2000

34

Now an independent route! Starts right under ICSJ, and climbs the rings to ledge. Big, stupid runout to the third RB, before climbing straight up the white streak with a technical move near the top. Fun climbing, but beware the runouts in a few places.

35

Start in corner at stump, and climb the FH's to ledge. Move left and follow the line of FH's to top. Very runout between 4th and 5th bolt, so take a wire.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

36

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

37

very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

38
20 The Jamb Crack Trad 15m

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...

39

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

40
19 Overhanging Corner Sport 20m

Up the slab (RB) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above. Up the lichenous face (RB's) to arrive at the headwall 1m L of the bolted corner. Up this (FH) to finish at the lookout. Rebolted.

Start: Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2003

41

Exciting start moves followed by pleasant jug haul to top.

Start: To get to the start walk around L and then up to the start platform.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

42
16 I'm Not Lichen It Trad 10m

FA: Gareth Llewellin & John Taylor, 2006

43
14 * Suddenly Sober Mixed 20m, 4

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! .

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne, Ben Carter, 2004

44
20 R Sunny Day Sport 10m

Not good.

Start: Initialled

45
20 R Rainy Day Sport 9m

Massive flakes to BR, then a homemade rusty FH, then up. Rap chain at top.The rock looks okay, but supposedly the big flake on one of these climbs creaks when you grab it. Sounds fun.

Start: Initialled. 1.5m left of Sunny day.

46
17 No More Gaps Trad 10m

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 1999

47
18 Unknown Trad 15m

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.