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Good short and steep climbing, with mostly better rock quality than many 'Brooyar' crags. It has little future potential and is limited by the combination of a largely blank lower overhanging section leading to an unpleasant meander through the lichen on the upper section.

All bar one of the current routes follow weaknesses through the enjoyable overhung lower section and finish at a lower-off.

© (hotgemini)


Park at faint fire road that disappears sharply right as you drive up from the campground (marked with cairn).

Follow line of cairns down sandy descent to the right end of the cliff and either traverse across narrow sand covered ledge or head lower and re-ascend to the height of the climbs.

Access is from the top of Wolfs lair. Look for chains on the ground.

© (hotgemini)


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Wolf's lair

24 ** Predator Sport 13m

The right most climb at Wolf's Lair. Approximately 2m right of 'Awesome Wells'. Thin slab and pockets to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

21 ** Awesome Wells Sport 15m

Intricate and interesting climbing.

Start: Start just left of boulder, almost directly under chains for 'Predator'.

FA: Herb Brandemier, 1997

22 ** Awesome Fearsome Sport 15m

Powerful overhung climbing

Start: Start 2 metre left of 'Awesome Wells' directly below ledge and anchors.

FA: Herb Brandemier, 1997

17 R Sand In My Pants Trad 15m

Poor quality climbing.

Start: In corner 2m left of 'Awesome Fearsome'

FA: Tom Walsh & Randomir Schmidt, 1998

21 Sheep Clothing Mixed 13m, 3

Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Skidmore, 1997

21 * Suitboy Mixed 13m, 2

Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Dan Meyers, 1997

28 ** Carnivore Sport 9m

The hardest route at 'Brooyar' went begging for 11 years! The recipe blends some modern techo bouldering with some old school flavour in the form of tough fingerlocks...mmm, zesty! Rebolted after the first ascent (four rings) to encourage repeats! U-bolt for belayer on ledge to start and rap anchor at top.

Set by Neil Monteith, 1998

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

13 ** Bio Logic Sport 12m

A moderate grade swim through the lichen.

Start: Rap down to tree belay at base of two arêtes.

FA: Dan Meyers & Neil Monteith, 1997

23 ** The Big Bad Wolf Sport 15m, 5

The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge. Double ring anchor, but due to drag easier to back climb or top belay and second to clean.

FA: Chris Coghill, 2000

Lichen wall

Access is from the top of Wolfs lair. Look for chains on the ground. Take about 15 runners including some long ones. Also bolt plates. You may want to hang all your runners on the way down. Take a rap rope. But most importantly: CLIP THE FIRST BOLT !

Starting from left, facing cliff:

18 LEVIS STRAUSS 501 Sport 20m
16 WRANGLER Sport 20m

After 2nd bolt go right not straight up.

18 STONE WASH Sport 20m

Up thin crack.

18 DENIM HOT PANS Sport 20m
16 DUNGAREES Sport 20m
18 DENIM AND LACE Sport 20m
16 JEANS WEST Sport 20m


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