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Summary

A crag with a collection of fun but short climbs with easy parking and easy access.

Description

This crag has short cliffs between 8 and 12 meters with a range of problems for a good day climbing. The sun only glances the cliff so has shade most of the day (except for the middle of summer - you will have shade until 11ish) The climbs have been mostly cleaned of lichen and dirt and are bolted with stainless 12mm bolts and hangers or stainless ring bolts using pure epoxy. Most anchors are fixed with 130mm long 12mm bolts. Most climbs anchors can be reached from the top of the cliff line if need be for top rope or quick draw retrieval.

A stick clip will be useful for some routes as some have a high first bolt. If you feel the need use it better safe than broken! At most you will need 6 quick draws for any one climb.

Approach

Heading toward Eagles nest from Point Pure take the next right hand turn, about 800m past Black Stump Buttress (this is pretty much the only right hand turn on this road). Follow this road until you find the parking turn around bay. Park here, walk past the obvious log, hang a right after the first ditch to follow the track to a burned tree. Follow track around tree then go left to the bottom of the Main cliff. Walking time 3 min 46 sec.

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