Terracotta Warrior All sport climbing

4 routes in crag

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Description

A breadknife pillar hidden in the wilderness. The forest is so dense that all but the top remains shady all day. Bring insect repellent!!

Approach

Drive 750m north from 'Black Stump Buttresses' to where a small road (numbered "5341 42") turns off to the right. Park here. Head west into the bush opposite this road (so same side of the main road as the other 'Brooyar' crags) and pretty much straight away you should spot a large rock cairn. Follow the cairns through the bush for about 10 minutes. Scramble down either side of the pillar.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 ** Terracota Warrior Sport 12m, 4

Great climb up overhung arete at L end of pillar. Four UBs and lower-off.

FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2009

2
16 Gutter Ball Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m R of 'Terracotta Warrior' at ground level. Up slab, pull over small roof and have fun in scoop. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Go the Dog'.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2010

3
16 Go the Dog Sport 12m, 5

Start as for 'Gutter Ball'. After 1st UB tend R then continue straight up. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Gutter Ball'.

FA: Tim Rowe, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

4
13 Pottery Class Sport 12m, 4

Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2010

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