A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Brooyar 221 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.528138, -26.143946

Description:© (hotgemini)

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. A lot of the information here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at Glastonbury creek is $5.60/night as of 18/05/14, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system. Gympie has food/alcohol/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of Brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the wide bay highway (the next town is Kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto Petersen road.

Petersen road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and camp site. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well travelled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful Glastonbury creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the camp ground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the camp site, straight ahead is an alternative route back to Gympie if you know the way.

1.1. Terracotta Warrior 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.526617, -26.130577

Description:

A breadknife pillar hidden in the wilderness. The forest is so dense that all but the top remains shady all day. Bring insect repellent!!

Approach:

Drive 750m north from 'Black Stump Buttresses' to where a small road (numbered "5341 42") turns off to the right. Park here. Head west into the bush opposite this road (so same side of the main road as the other 'Brooyar' crags) and pretty much straight away you should spot a large rock cairn. Follow the cairns through the bush for about 10 minutes. Scramble down either side of the pillar.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Terracota Warrior

Great climb up overhung arete at L end of pillar. Four UBs and lower-off.

FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2009

18Sport 12m, 4
2 Gutter Ball

Start 2m R of 'Terracotta Warrior' at ground level. Up slab, pull over small roof and have fun in scoop. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Go the Dog'.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2010

16Sport 12m, 5
3 Go the Dog

Start as for 'Gutter Ball'. After 1st UB tend R then continue straight up. 5 UBs. Shares 1st UB and lower-off with 'Gutter Ball'.

FA: Tim Rowe, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

16Sport 12m, 5
4 Pottery Class

Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2010

13Sport 12m, 4

1.2. Black Stump Buttresses 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.525079, -26.140317

Description:© (hotgemini)

This area is made up of five small buttresses, and the safest scree slope is central. Take the scree with large fallen tree running all the way down it. Take care as some of the rocks are loose. All routes have been cleaned but some lichen and loss rock may still be encountered.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

This next crag is 600m from Eagles Nest (if Eagle's Nest is the last crag you come to). Drive up the hill and you will see a large black tree stump on your R, park somewhere here. The crag is on the same side as existing crags and is very close to the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coral Reef

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

FA: Henk Morgans, Peter Jones, 2010

21Sport 12m, 5
2 Rename

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral reef.

FA: Henk Morgans, Peter Jones, 2010

21Sport 10m, 5
3 Bio-organic plasma gun

Start 2 metres to the right of rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall. Lower off.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

18Sport 13m, 5
4 Orchid Lane

Up L side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Colin Carstens, 2008

15Sport 14m, 5
5 Found the Salt

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

FA: Matt Butler, Colin Carstens, 2008

14Sport 13m, 5
6 * Pink Panzer

2m L of HITHP. 8 RB's. Looks poxy.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2010

18Sport 17m
7 Hand in the honey pot

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RB's to lower-off. It's possible to go L or R in the middle section. Most people take the L option. Grotty and sharp in parts.

FA: Graham Page,Clint Westbrook , 2008

21Sport 18m
8 * Footprints on the Other Side

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly left of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

FA: Graham Page, Colin Carstens, 2008

19Sport 18m, 6
9 * Annabelistic

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to Double U-bolt belay (shared with Snake Charmer).

FA: Lara Masselos, 2008

18Sport 18m, 7
10 * Snake Charmer

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

16Sport 18m, 7
11 One Legged Dog

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

13Sport 18m, 7
12 The Dog's Paw

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of 'One Legged Dog'.

Start around the corner (right side of small cave) and follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of One Legged Dog.

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

FA: Colin Carstens, 2007

14Sport 15m, 6
13 Crack Chaser

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chasers lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

FA: Terry Forbes, Oliver Rickford, 2010

13Trad 16m
14 * Sun Chaser

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

FA: Graham Page, A Dodson, 2006

16Sport 15m, 4
15 Via the rainbow

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, John Debont, 2009

16Sport 12m, 6
16 Foreign Exchange

Bad bolts galore!! Be careful.

FA: Herb Brandemeir, John Debont, 2009

20 RSport 10m, 6
17 Sand in your pants

FFA: Steve Kloske, Elissa Jack, 2012

21Sport 16m
18 Spider Fingers

Five UB's, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

FA: Graham Page, Phil Box, 2008

21Sport 15m, 5
19 * Spike

Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broke off the start, increasing the grade.

FA: Colin Carstens, Mark Godsell, 2008

20Sport 15m
20 ** Beyond the Black Stump

Heel hook start quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

FA: G Page, A Dodson., 2006

19Sport 15m
21 ** Spank the Monkey

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UB's to DUBB

FA: G Page, A Dodson., 2007

21Sport 15m, 5
22 * Oniondated

Starting in the corner just to the left of 'Little Wednesday'.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2013

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014

22Sport 10m, 3
23 ** Little Wednesday

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off.

FA: Graham Page, Colin Carstens, 2008

25Sport 8m, 6
24 * Big Friday

Start 2 meters right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

FA: Antoine Mousette, 2010

26Sport Project 12m, 6
25 Passage

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UB's to DUBB.

FA: Graham page, Adam Dodson, 2007

19Sport 15m
26 Right Of Passage

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

FA: G Page, A dodson

21Sport 15m
27 ** Dreamcatcher

Similar start as to ROP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

FA: Grama Page / Adam Dodson, 2007

20Sport 15m
28 ** Shake and Bake

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RB's to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

FA: Charlie Lewis,Cameron Dougin, 2007

24Sport 15m
29 Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder Cure Corner

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering of Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, or accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), and trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. In Black Strump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jams and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesdays. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably an awful climb not worth doing.

FA: Miguel Madero. Carina Casco handing him a shoe to downclimb, 2012

7Unknown 14m
30 * The Enticer

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

FA: Gordon Baudino, Colin Carstens, 2008

17Sport 14m, 5
31 French Bandit

Starts 2m left of Crack Whore. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBCWG

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

15Sport 12m, 4
32 My Brother's Crack Whore Girlfriend

Four RBs to DBB (in cavelet). Keeps you interested at the grade.

FFA: Graham Page, Charlie Lewis, Clint Westbrook, Mclovin, 2008

15Sport 10m, 4

1.3. Hanuman's Hangout 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.524654, -26.141253

Description:© (hotgemini)

Follow the bottom of the hill you were about to start driving up, you will notice boulders up high. When the boulders are tallest, head downhill and will soon find yourself on top of the overhang, 200-250 metres off the road. Scree is to the R if facing away from the road. Some old routes exist with carrots at the bottom of the scree these are easy generic 'Brooyar' climbing, no info.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

The first new crag is 300m past Eagle's Nest as you head away from the campground. Park at the bottom of the slope as you go to start uphill again. The crag is on the same side as existing crags.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hanuman's Eye

Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UB’s to DUBB.

FA: G Page, A Dodson, 2006

21Sport 15m, 6
2 The Animal Within LHV 23Sport 12m
3 The Animal Within

3m R of HE, 6 UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 24 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.

FA: G Page, A Dodson, 2007

20Sport 15m, 4
4 ** Bats In The Belfry

A unique route for Brooyar, 8 ub's to dbb. ( long slings recomended for 3rd and 6th).

FA: Graham Page, Clint Westbrook, 2008

24Sport 15m, 8
5 * Slave To Gravity

Start up crack chimney feature on the right of the crag. Six RB's to lower off in centre of roof. Semi sloping campus.

FA: Graham Page, Clint Westbrook, 2008

24Sport 15m

1.4. Eagle's Nest 59 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.524299, -26.142222

Description:© (hotgemini)

The largest crag at brooyar both in number of climbs and in height, with the main wall some 45 metres in height.

Numerous routes offer long moderate climbs to short crimpy overhung affairs in the mid-20s.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park at the large carpark immediately adjacent to the lookout. The most direct access to the climbing is to walk back down the road towards the campground about 50 metres and then follow the light footpad to the cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lilliputian

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

14Trad 6m
2 Giftzwerg

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

14Trad 8m
3 Rumpelstilzchen

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

14Trad 7m
4 Piccolo

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

14 RTrad 6m
5 Travails of a Tripping Termite

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives...

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

14Trad 30m
6 Miss Manners

Start up slabby crack clipping UB before ledge. Lean out clipping second UB, then juggy climbing up the black featured wall past two more UBs before moving L to join MKK at its final bolt. Lower off as for MKK.

FA: Sam Cujes, 2009

15Sport 20m, 5
7 Miss Kandy Kane

The line going directly up the R arête of the scoop past five RB's to finish at rap rings. Nice juggy going to the top of the scoop, then open, balancy climbing to the station. Lower off.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

15Sport 20m
8 ** Fatman Scoop

Scramble up to the base of the orange scoop. Clip a piece of history (!) before moving into the scoop proper and the first of four UBs. Good moves take you up and L to the zenith of the scoop and small rooflet. A little corner caps things off. Lower-off.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

23Sport 20m, 4
9 * Spoonmate

Start 4 meter left of 'Fatman Scoop'. Follow the shallow rib till you hit the break. Rock over a rooflet to get to the anchor. Unfinished, needed to recharge.

Set by Antoine Moussette, 2010

23Sport Project 21m, 7
10 The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill

Short and sweet.

Start: Starts off the large block.

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, 1993

17Trad 8m
11 * Digit Crucifixion

Tough start.

Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

18Mixed 10m, 1
12 Tally-Ho The Fox

Initialled. Starts at the L of the white scoop. Up thin vertical flakes. Move L onto the big protruding horn, FH. Hard move up and onto the face with BR. Up tending R to the cave and through the centre of the roof (hidden BR). Take assorted wires and slings.

FA: Herb Brandmeier Paul wright, 1991

23Trad 25m
13 ** Private Investigation

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain, BR's. Up onto and through orange wall, BR. The top half is well protected by lots of slings.

Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

18Trad 25m
14 ** Up a Rat in a Drainpipe

A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UB's and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).

Start: Belay from bolts on ledge.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

18Sport 20m
15 ** Free Range Heggs

Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing Digit Crucifixion(?) or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BRs have been replaced with hangars.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

17Sport 20m, 8
16 Bosnian Broth

The L route with two Rbs. The topout mantle is interesting.

FA: Saul Squires, 1996

23Sport 7m
17 ** Blinky Bill's American Breakfast

The R route with three rings. You'll want to stick clip the first one.

FA: Aubury Carter, 1997

23Sport 8m
18 *** Looking For The Sun

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crackline. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, 1993

19Mixed 40m, 4
19 Meandering Maze 13Unknown 35m
20 * Send Me an Angel

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RB's.

FA: Graham Page, Clint Westwood, 2000

17Sport 40m, 11
21 * The Pioneer

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 Rbs lead to a pumpy and steap finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 1998

16Sport 40m, 11
22 Lichenous Fury

Little trad climb.

Take a big cam

Start: Below the starting boulder of 2 for tea

FA: M schimke, C ryan, 2008

11Trad 6m
23 2 For Tea

Now fully bolted with rings. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 1998

14Sport 35m, 10
24 Tea for 2

Now fully bolted with rings.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 1998

15Mixed 35m, 5
25 ** 2,4,5 T

Nicest of the three.

Start: Start at right of tree at end of corridor

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 1998

17Sport 42m, 7
26 * Little Ray Of Sunshine

10 bolts

FA: G Page, D O'Flaherty

17Sport 45m, 10
27 * It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy

Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS. Up slings and natural gear

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

16Sport 45m, 8
28 * Choss And Chickenheads

Climbs up a pocketed slab to the stupid first BR at about 6m. Above the BR is most likely naturally protected and is slightly vegetated in parts. Not too inspiring. Take slings for pro on chickenheads and beware of the chossy headwall. Surprisingly, this route does get traffic.

Start: Start about 35m L of LFTS and 1m L of detached pillar of rock.

16 RTrad 45m
29 Chicken Wings

Start: Start 4 metres left of CAC

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

16Sport 15m, 5
30 Prima Diva

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

18Sport 8m, 3
31 Prima Donna

Start: 2 Metres left of 'Prima Diva'

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2002

22Sport 8m, 3
32 * Lithgow Layback

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.

FA: Hayden, 2004

25Sport 15m, 3
33 Dreaming of the Blueys

FA: Hayden, 2004

25Sport 15m
34 Who Is On First!

Climb the crack on natural gear to the juggy 1m roof. Clip BR around lip, then pull through to face above. Up to ledge. Final wall (BR) to tree. Rap off. At the moment it's vegetated and needs cleaning.

Start: Starts about 15m L of "CAC" at crackline running through the middle of the wall below the roof.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 2000

23Trad 15m
35 Project Matt-Closed

The small roof to the right of CH. Closed project.

Sport
36 ** Celluloid Hero

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

21Sport 15m
37 The Skirt 17Trad 15m
38 Leave No Tern Unstoned

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Do it. Good. Now climb the blocky corner on natural gear to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall (BR and FH). Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out (a chain is needed here).

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

19Mixed 13m, 2
39 The time is right

start 2m L of CTBH the right trending line of bolts under the scary block. crank around the lip and climb up to dbb.

Set by Steve Kloske, Henk Morgans

FA: Steve Kloske, Henk Morgans

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

26Sport 15m
40 *** Central To Blackheath

FA: Graham Page, 2009

24Sport 15m
41 * Pantsed

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

16Trad 20m
42 (Project - Woosah) 25Unknown 20m
43 Woosah

A project of Graham's

24 RSport
44 ** Johnny Gun

Cue the 70s porn music. Up wall to ledge below roof (2 BR's), then great roof jugs past a FH. Move around the lip (crux) and clip the second FH then onto ledge with double ring rap station.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1997

22Sport 15m, 4
45 Gully Project-Closed Sport Project 10m
46 * Community

climb up fro corner trending rght to pull the lip out left past 4 RB's to anchor on large ledge.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

20Sport 17m, 4
47 The Great Knut

climb left from the corner then blast straight up the passing several RB' until you reach the DBB

FA: Steve Kloske, The Great Knut, 2014

25Sport 18m
48 Prospector 17Unknown 20m
49 Inspector Unknown 20m
50 The Big Nothing

This is a good beginner route with great gear up a corner finishing at a tree belay.

Start: 8m R of the Let's Bail arete.

11Trad 7m
51 Treason

FA: Matt Schimke

10Trad 7m
52 Crimp And Dyno 26Sport 7m
53 Crimp & Dyno (Boulder Version)

Was a mini-route, now a boulder problem. Single ringbolt on white wall. Boulder problem to dyno, then up to tree. V5 or 26

FA: Hayden, 2004

V5Boulder
54 * Stepping Stone

Feeling kinda sporty?

Start: The thin wall 3m L of corner and 2m R of arête.

FA: Albury Carter, 1997

23Sport 10m, 3
55 The Dog's Day Off

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

19Trad 10m
56 * Let's Bail

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty., 1993

20Trad 10m
57 Bust A Move

Marked BAM. Four BR's and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

FA: G Page, 2004

20Mixed 10m, 4
58 (Unknown 2)

Up arête to thin crack. Follow the crack as it widens up a mini-corner to a tree belay. (Safety note: we've been told this tree is now very dodgy - take care!)

Start: Starts 1m L of CH on the arête.

17 XTrad 15m
59 (Unknown 4)

Shallow orange corner. BR's.

Trad

1.5. Green Lane 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.523942, -26.143228

Description:© (hotgemini)

A great small crag with a real intimate and cosy feel. Lots of enjoyably varied and intricate climbs in the low 20s.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

About 100 metres past point pure coming from the campground. Greene road turns off to the left, park off to the side near this intersection but DO NOT go down Greene ROAD. Instead follow the small footpad past the sign indicating the Green lane abseiling points.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 DH3

2m R of AWITG. Filthy and lichenous. To see any action this route would need a thorough cleaning and bolting. Starts at the obvious undercling then straight up the wall on worsening slopes. Crux at 4.5m.

22 RTrad 6m
2 A walk in the garden

More like wading through compost. Stay away.

Start: Start in 110 degree corner 20 metres right of descent gully.

15Trad 10m
3 ** DH4

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FH's to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

21Sport 7m
4 The Dirty Corner

Not overly dirty, could be okay. 10m R of the descent gully is this ever-steepening naturally-protected corner with an exciting exit.

17Trad 8m
5 Coexisting With Insanity

The orange arête 1m L of TDC. 2 FH's to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

21Sport 8m
6 Thanks For The Fish

2m L. Grade 17 leaders will find the start requires a stern crank. Up wall past a two BR's before trending L to DBB. You might as well finish at the top of the cliff though.

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, Keri Green, 1993

17Sport 10m
7 Green eggs and spam

In between TFTF and BED, three FH's to chain. Herb retrobolted an old saul squires solo route.

FFA: Saul Squires (Solo), 1993

21Sport 8m
8 Book Em' Danno

3m L of TFTF. First climb to the R of the descent gully. Starts a couple of metres left of TFTF at the small corner. Crux is down low. Up slabby wall past two BR's and DBB to overhung juggy top. The top out finish is apparently 16.

FA: Dani Geraghty, Keri Green, Saul Squires, 1993

15Sport 10m
9 Inspiration

The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

16Trad 8m
10 Tests And Titosterone

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

10Trad 9m
11 Sweetness And Light

The obvious yellow lichenous crack 2m L of T&T. Tree belay well back.

FA: Herb Brandmeier

12Trad 10m
12 Angel Dust

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

21Trad 15m
13 Uzis On Speed RHV

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

19Trad 18m
14 ** Uzis On Speed

Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with Rbs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and Rb to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final Rb (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).

FA: Saul Squires, Dani Geraghty, 1993

21Trad 15m
15 ** Sea Of Fools

A couple of metres left. This climb has a very obvious face up the top covered in hundreds of pockets. Tricky overhung start past a BR onto deceptive slab with smallish SLCD. #4 SLCD in wide break, then up and clip SOT's FH out L with long sling. Now that excellent pocketed wall with a BR and a FH to the top.

FA: Andy Anderson, Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty, 1993

22Trad 15m
16 * Ship Of Tools

As for SOF to second BR at pocketed wall. Up a move or two then veer L to arête (BR). Up this exposed arête.

FA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, Dani Geraghty, 1993

22Trad 15m
17 ** Herb's Hammer

Chalked undercling and jugs (FH) to R-hand dyno. Over bulge (FH) and finish as for SOT (up the arête past a BR), alternatively gain an extra star by finishing up SOF's pocketed headwall.

Start: Start from boulder 2m L of SOT

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

22Sport 10m
18 ** Hate Crimes

A varied and technical classic. Start up overhanging corner L of SOT. Power up past first FH to break and obvious SLCD slot. Continue past 3 FH's. Difficulty in reading the sequence makes this a good onsight.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

23Mixed 15m, 4
19 Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell

A contrived variant finish to HC. Start as for HC to the third FH (clip with a long sling).Traverse 2m R to FH on face. Continue R, then power up to good hold, clipping a final FH back L. Finish easily.

FA: Saul Squires, 1993

25Trad 15m
20 * Herb's And Spices

Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

21Sport 15m
21 Mr Medium Man

1m L of HAS and just R of the obvious roof. A very hard start then up passing four BR's.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

23Sport 15m
22 No Ethics

Well-named route setting an unpleasant precedent (slots at the start of this route have been chipped - totally unacceptable). After blank wall, through overhang with some acrobatic moves. Two FHs, two BRs.

23Sport 15m
23 No Scruples

More herb unethical chipping.

FA: Herb Brandemier

23Sport 15m
24 * Herb's In The Fernery

A great introduction to steep brooyar leading.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 1991

18Sport 15m
25 New Day Rising

A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a BR and two FH's to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final BR to a DBB.

FA: Dani Geraghty & Saul Squires, 1993

16Sport 15m
26 * Tom's Turnips

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014

14Trad 15m
27 The End Is Nigh

10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three BR's.

FA: Keri Green & Dani Geraghty, 1993

13Sport 12m
28 Herbal Tea

A tough off-balance crux sequence leads to easier headwall. Three FHs to anchor.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991

21Sport 10m

1.6. Hammerhead Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.522386, -26.144373

Description:

Mini crag with several short but fun sport routes good for beginner to intermediate climbers.

All routes are well protected with u-bolts (UBs in the descriptions). Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach:

Walk or drive about 200m down Green Lane, which turns off the main 'Brooyar' road between 'Green Lane' and 'Point Pure'. The crag is obvious just off the road up to the left. Take care not to block the road when parking.

Descent Notes:

All climbs have double bolt belays (DBBs in the descriptions) at the top for easy lowering / top belaying.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Irukandji

Start on the small buttress with a block balanced on top at the the L-most end of the cliff.

Climb up and onto the perched block. 2 UBs & DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

15Sport 7m, 2
2 Not On Porpoise

Start just L of the small cave, 3m R of 'Irukandji'.

Pumpy moves trending R past 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'Chironex'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

18Sport 8m, 4
3 Chironex

Start just R of the small cave, 3m R of 'Not On Porpoise'.

Fun moves up steep rock. 3 UBs to DBB shared with 'NOP'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

18Sport 8m, 3

The remaining 4 climbs are about 20m R of 'Chironex' on the tall buttress with a slab apron at its base.

4 Hook Line And Sinker

Start up L side of slab apron.

Up slab then a nice layback crux through steeper terrain before another slabby section. 5 UBs, last 2 of which are shared with 'Becalmed'. Finishes at DBB shared with 'Becalmed' & 'Grey Nurse'.

FA: Chris Gibson, 2009

18Sport 10m, 5
5 Becalmed

Start at apex of slab apron, 4m R of 'Hook Line And Sinker'.

Up deceptively tricky slab past 2 UBs to vertical wall. Straight up wall past 2 further UBs before joining 'HLAS' at its 2nd last UB. DBB shared with 'HLAS' & 'Grey Nurse'.

FA: John Martin, 2009

16Sport 13m, 6
6 Grey Nurse

Start in chimney 5m R of 'Becalmed'.

Chimney up and out to L. Clip UB then traverse L to middle of vertical wall. Straight up past 4 UBs to ledge. 5 UBs total. DBB shared with 'Hook Line And Sinker' & 'Becalmed'.

FA: Alice Fletcher, 2009

15Sport 10m, 5
7 ** Catch Of The Day

Start as for 'Grey Nurse'.

Head straight up face after clipping 1st UB shared with 'Grey Nurse'. Nice moves up corner in 2nd half to below roof then an exhilarating push through roof to finish at DBB on prow. 5 UBs total. Great climbing and almost as fun to watch!

FA: Sam Cujes, 2009

20Sport 10m, 5

1.7. Point Pure 46 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.524425, -26.144975

Description:© (hotgemini)

A varied and good-quality crag with numerous moderate routes and easy access.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park in the large, obviously signed 'Point Pure' look-out carpark, walk 500 metres to the look-out, turn left and follow path around to gully and into the right-most end of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Forgotten Name

Start R of DJA. Four BR's with a slight left trend in the top half. Tricky start and finish.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2004

16Sport 12m
2 The Forgotten Name RHV

Start as for the original. At second BR, move R to break (gear) then up to BR and top.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osbourne, Ben Carter, 2004

12Trad 12m
3 Don Juan's Appendix

More forgettable climbing on the access path.

Start: Just right of obvious overhang.

FA: Saul Squires and Dave Whitworth, 1993

12Trad 12m
4 Over De'void

moderate but runout climbing on wall adjacent to the devoid cave.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

16 RSport 15m
5 *** The Great Devoid

Fantastic climbing through steep territory on edges of vaguely africa shaped plate.

Start: Start in cave at right end of point pure, stick clip first bolt.

FA: Saul Squires et al, 1993

22Sport 15m
6 ** Pipeline

1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipeline feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip. Then up to recently installed rap station

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

24Sport 15m, 5
7 * Losing Fingers

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

25Sport 8m, 3
8 Yellow Country Teeth Extention

Continue past anchor, and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Henk Morgans, 2013

25Sport 18m
9 ** Yellow Country Teeth

A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

25Sport 8m, 4
10 * Nosferatu

Climb up the sharp arete on some cool pockets. Take a deep breath and get greeted by a insane, fun(type 2) lip boulder problem. The lip makes this a cool little route to try. The mono is not in, that is an old drill hole that needs patching. Originally bolted by G Page and Chucky. Many thanks to them for their hard work and vision.

Set by Graham Page and chucky, 2009

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 2014

27Sport 10m, 4
11 * Orange Flavoured Hand Grenade

Slightly to the right of Barroom Brawl. Start on the pockets and pull up onto the slab. Follow the juggy flakes up into the roof & around the lip to anchors.

FA: Joe Driver, 2009

22Sport 8m
12 Barroom Brawl

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

FA: Phil Box, 2008

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2010

FA: Tom O Hallaran, 2010

25Sport 7m
13 Unleash the Swarm

Starting on little platform, up into awkward corner and sandy ear past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, Chris Gibson, Alice Fletcher, JJ O'Brien, 2008

19Sport 15m, 5
14 * Reid

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

FA: Guy Pearce; Chester, 2nd Guy Pearce, 1990

19Mixed 15m, 3
15 * Sinister Exaggerator

Balancy, Gritty, Sloping Slab with slight bulge at start.

Start: Start near tree 3 metres left of Reid, climb on and just right of rounded sloping arete.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

22Sport 15m, 4
16 Figjam

Further around from SE is a set of L-leaning twin seams. Climb the L one. The top needs a clean.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1990

22Trad 8m
17 DH1

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

21Trad 4m
18 DH2

A variant to a 4 metre route?

23Trad 6m
19 Stone Merino

this climb is actually called stone merino

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep, 1990

18Trad 15m
20 ** Pebbles

Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RB's to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.

FA: Craig Pohlman Andrew Audsley, 2004

25Sport 22m, 6
21 *** Perverse Pyschology

Starts up pebbles and arches left across the wall to Reverse Pyschology's anchor

Set by Alex Turnbull, Daniel Gordon & Jonathon Schwartz, 2013

FFA: Sam Bowman, 2014

28Sport 28m, 7
22 * Sauron Project

Open project going up bolts to the R of Reverse Psychology. Will easily be the Hardest line in middle earth, if sent...

Set by Daniel Gordon, damo Rua, alex turnbull, 2012

Sport Project 17m, 6
23 *** The Mordor Project

Open project starting up bolts R of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Set by Daniel Gordon, damo Rua, alex turnbull, 2012

Sport Project 17m, 5
24 * Reverse Psychology

Stickclip the high first UB, but best to belay from ground. A tough move off two-finger undercling gives second bolt, followed by gritstone-slapping weirdness (RB) to break. Crack takes #3 camalot and/or your biggest wire. Final sandy crack past last RB leads to rap station. Was first climbed in the wet, so the top still needs a thorough cleaning.

Start: Walk along ledge to access.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

27Sport 15m, 5
25 Lower Tier

On the Steep wall under Reverse Psychology ledge.

Set by Antoine Moussette & Graham Page, 2013

FA: Henk Morgans, 2013

25Sport 9m, 4
26 * The Missing Link

Links into the classic grade 13 'The great barrier reef'.

Start: Start at furthest protruding part of ledge at DBB.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, 1991

21Sport 8m
27 *** The Great Barrier Reef

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

FA: Dave Whitworth and Michael Long, 1993

13Sport 20m
28 Tight As A Drum

A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FH's and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

FFA: Lee & Sam Cujes, 2008

24Sport 30m, 5
29 * The Cornflake Climb

Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big pocket, is visible from the ledge.

Start: Start at left end of overhang below overhanging block.

18Sport 20m
30 * Coco Pops

Start 2m R of 'MD'.

Classic beginner lead, great introduction to 'Brooyar'. 7 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

15Sport 30m, 7
31 MD

Start pretty much at 'Cold Fusion' but trend R straight away to high first bolt before ledge. Climbs straight up from here, with a nice crack near the top. Originally a trad route with dodgy pro, now retrobolted into a fun sport climb through some mindblowing rock. 8 RBs, top out, abseiling rings for top anchor.

15Sport 30m, 8
32 Cold Fusion

Start 2m right of ICSJ. Easily climb up to ledge, before it steepens and moves left across face on rings to a blank and intimidating finish. This route used to move right at the top, but has been retro bolted so that it moves left taking in as much hard climbing as it can. Grade is not confirmed now.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Paul Wright, 2000

16Sport 20m
33 Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad RHV

Now an independent route! Starts right under ICSJ, and climbs the rings to ledge. Big, stupid runout to the third RB, before climbing straight up the white streak with a technical move near the top. Fun climbing, but beware the runouts in a few places.

18Sport 20m
34 Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad

Start in corner at stump, and climb the FH's to ledge. Move left and follow the line of FH's to top. Very runout between 4th and 5th bolt, so take a wire.

FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993

16Sport 20m
35 The Back of the Chimney

You'd have to be bored to climb this one.

Start: Start at back of chimney.

8 RTrad 8m
36 The Middle of the Chimney

very little to recommend this climb.

Start: Start in middle of chimney

8 RTrad 8m
37 The Jamb Crack

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...

20Trad 15m
38 Big Mouth Short Crack

Doesn't see many ascents, might actually contain okay climbing under all the lichen but nobody can say for sure.

Start: Start 2m left of TJC

22Trad 20m
39 Overhanging Corner

Up the slab (RB) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above. Up the lichenous face (RB's) to arrive at the headwall 1m L of the bolted corner. Up this (FH) to finish at the lookout. Rebolted.

Start: Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Joan Vickers, 2003

19Sport 20m
40 Your Hovercraft Is Full Of Potatoes

Exciting start moves followed by pleasant jug haul to top.

Start: To get to the start walk around L and then up to the start platform.

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

20Sport 20m
41 I'm Not Lichen It

FA: Gareth Llewellin & John Taylor, 2006

16Trad 10m
42 * Suddenly Sober

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! .

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne, Ben Carter, 2004

14Mixed 20m, 4
43 Sunny Day

Not good.

Start: Initialled

20 RSport 10m
44 Rainy Day

Massive flakes to BR, then a homemade rusty FH, then up. Rap chain at top.The rock looks okay, but supposedly the big flake on one of these climbs creaks when you grab it. Sounds fun.

Start: Initialled. 1.5m left of Sunny day.

20 RSport 9m
45 No More Gaps

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 1999

17Trad 10m
46 Unknown

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.

18Trad 15m

1.8. The Wolf's Lair 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.531867, -26.147938

Description:© (hotgemini)

Good short and steep climbing, with mostly better rock quality than many 'Brooyar' crags. It has little future potential and is limited by the combination of a largely blank lower overhanging section leading to an unpleasant meander through the lichen on the upper section.

All bar one of the current routes follow weaknesses through the enjoyable overhung lower section and finish at a lower-off.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Park at faint fire road that disappears sharply right as you drive up from the campground (marked with cairn).

Follow line of cairns down sandy descent to the right end of the cliff and either traverse across narrow sand covered ledge or head lower and re-ascend to the height of the climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Predator

Thin slab and pockets to chain.

Start: The right most climb at wolf's lair. Approximately 2m right of 'Awesome Wells'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

24Trad 13m
2 * Awesome Wells

Intricate and interesting climbing.

Start: Start just left of boulder, almost directly under chains for 'Predator'.

FA: Herb Brandemier, 1997

21Sport 15m
3 * Awesome Fearsome

Powerful overhung climbing

Start: Start 2 metre left of 'Awesome Wells' directly below ledge and anchors.

FA: Herb Brandemier, 1997

22Sport 15m
4 Sand In My Pants

Poor quality climbing.

Start: In corner 2m left of 'Awesome Fearsome'

FA: Tom Walsh and Randomir Schmidt, 1998

17 RTrad 15m
5 Sheep Clothing

Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.

FA: Neil Monteith and Lee Skidmore, 1997

21Trad 13m
6 Suitboy

Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith and Dan Meyers, 1997

21Trad 13m
7 * Carnivore

The hardest route at 'Brooyar' went begging for 11 years! The recipe blends some modern techo bouldering with some old school flavour in the form of tough fingerlocks...mmm, zesty! Rebolted after the first ascent (four rings) to encourage repeats! U-bolt for belayer on ledge to start and rap anchor at top.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

28Sport 9m
8 * Bio Logic

A moderate grade swim through the lichen.

Start: Rap down to tree belay at base of two arêtes.

FA: Dan Meyers and Neil Monteith, 1997

13Sport 12m
9 The Big Bad Wolf

The line of ring bolts at the far left end of Wolf's Lair, about 10m L of Bio Logic. Through a small rooflet, then up a blank corner/face, to rest beneath the roof. Swing out the roof on jugs passing two rings and an optional #3.5 SLCD. Pull the lip (no pikers!), and finish hands-free on the ledge. Double ring anchor, but due to drag easier to back climb or top belay and second to clean.

FA: Chris Coghill, 2000

23Sport 15m, 5

1.9. Gymp Crag 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.534265, -26.149786

Description:© (hotgemini)

The 'Gymp Crag' can be found between Wolf's Lair and the Rain Cave, and the parking spot is 1.42km from 'Point Pure'. Park, and forge directly away from the road. If you find yourself on top of some rock, head downhill (scattered boulders) and around R passing a pocketed wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Gymp Was Disturbed

Up the orange face, through roof to lip (but resist the urge to mantle it!). Traverse the lip the entire way, joining TGIS at its anchor (hidden from view). Seven RB's to lower off.

FA: Graham Page, James Colwill, 2009

23Sport 10m, 7
2 Gymp is Sleeping

Novelty traverse across lip of cave starting on far right. Route gets steeper and steeper until final fun roof move. Rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1997

21Sport 15m, 5
3 * The Gymp Was a Boy From The Bluies

Starts on L arete of the crag and goes up then out R to shared station. Five RB's to chain.

FA: Graham Page, Clint Westwood, 2009

21Sport 10m, 5

1.10. The Rain Cave 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.536345, -26.150921

Description:© (hotgemini)

This small area is 1.5km from 'Point Pure' and is partly visible from the road off to the R. Park off the road before the yellow "S - curves" road sign and walk up R toward the rocky outcrop. Walk down around this to encounter a large roof with solid huecos and fins. Superb roof bouldering with great landings are to be found here, even when it's pouring rain, which is the area's main drawcard. None of the following problems use the bottom ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come And Get Me

The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip.

V2Boulder 4m
2 Just Keep Hanging On

A pumpy endurance number. The smooth flake starting on the very far L and traversing R (remember, no bottom ledge). At the end, drop down to the next flake, then a long move past blankness (crux) and continue to finish on little prow.

V3Boulder 6m
3 There's Just No Need For That

A good warm up. From the middle of the smooth flake, go up and out towards lip on the line of jugs. Finish at the jug 1m before the lip.

FA: Erik Smits, 1999

V0Boulder 3m
4 Zilch

A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

V1Boulder

1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper 18 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

From the campground looking south the small rock out crop visible below the power lines. Cross the creek and follow the faint track up to the base of the cliff. The routes are listed left to right; some routes have not yet been listed. This crag is on private property and as such please show the proper respect to ensure future access, if you pack it in then please pack it out. The land owner Whopper might come say hi, be friendly he is a local night club bouncer!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Will there be fries with that?

Start out left through powerful moves to delicate stance then continue up slab moves to top passing 3 RB’s to shared anchor with Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites.

FFA: Phil Box, Steve Kloske, 2012

19Sport 15m
2 Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites

Start 2m right of Will there be fries with that? Powerful and challenging start up past 4 RB’s to shared anchor.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2012

21Sport 15m
3 Happy Meals make Good Meals

Start 4m right of Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites. Up easy short wall passing ring bolts to difficult mantle and top out to shared anchor on left with RHMG.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Phil Box, 2012

15Sport 15m
4 ** What a Whopper

What a whopper of a move! Start 8m right of previous route. Reachy moves all the way, shorties be warned! Balance your way up to big moves above the roof then continue past several ring bolts to anchor.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2012

22Sport 15m
5 ** Red Jocks, look anywhere but there

Start 1m right of What a Whopper. Delicate moves up to small roof up to good stance then jug haul up.

FFA: Phil Box, Steve Kloske, Damien Rua, 2012

20Sport 15m
6 * Goofballs and Grease Traps

Start 2m right of previous route. Balance your way up to stance followed by pumpy moves then keep moving through the French fries crimpers and grease trap slopers.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2012

21Sport 15m
7 The Rainbow Road Show

Start 4m right of Goofballs and Grease Traps. Trip out on this psychedelic direct line or layback your way up in style passing three ring bolts to shared anchor.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Phil Box, 2012

15Sport 13m
8 After The Gold Rush

Up easy direct line to DBB. Right of TRRS

FFA: Steve Kloske, Phil Box, 2012

15Sport 13m
9 The Clinterous

5 Ring bolts to anchor. Dedicated to the FFA

FFA: Clint Westbrook, 2009

16Sport 15m
10 Fast Food - That’s what she said.

5 Rings to Anchor 1m right of Clinterous

FFA: Herb Brandewie, 2009

15Sport 15m
11 Super Size Yo Mumma

5 bolts to anchor 2m right of FF

FA: Herb Brandewie

FFA: Herb Brandewie, 2009

18Sport 15m
12 30c Conner

Start 2m right of SSYM up the immaculate hand crack pull through the bulge and finish up the slab. Anchor on the left.

FA: Herb Brandewie

FFA: Herb Brandewie, 2009

17Sport 15m
13 Whopper Flopper

1m right of 30c Huge move from the cave then up the jugs add a grade for shorties and subtract for tallies 4 ring bolts to DBB.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2012

24Sport 15m
14 Lichen this lichen

2m right of WF 3ring bolts up hand crack to anchor.

FFA: Herb Brandewie, 2009

16Sport 15m
15 Which toy do you want?

2m right of LTL Up lichen covered rock passing 4 ring bolts to anchor.

FFA: Herb Brandewie, 2009

15Sport 15m
16 The Licking Lichen King

Set by Graham Page, 2013

FFA: Damian Krell, 2013

16Sport 7m, 4
17 Burger Queen

Beautiful face follow by a feature headwall.

Set by Antoine Moussette, 2013

17Sport Project 7m, 5
18 Onion Rings

The overhanging arète on the left side of this sector.

Set by Graham Page, 2013

21 to 23Sport Project 7m, 5

1.12. Golf Ball Boulder 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Named after the amazing golf ball features all over. Traverse about 300m right of Hungry Jack’s crag and in-line with the top to find a unique overhung boulder with climbs on either side. Climbs here are listed from left to right.

Approach:

300m right of Hungry Jacks

History:

Please remember that this crag is on private property. The landowner - Gary (aka. Whopper) - has been kind enough to let us climb here. In return, please keep an eye out for low-lives trying to slaughter his cattle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Graeme Page Project.

Please stay off until sent.

Sport Project 8m
2 Hole in One

Campus start with powerful moves continue right to technical arête passing 3 RB’s mantel to top out belay off 2 RB’s

FFA: Clint Westbrook, 2009

23Sport 12m
3 *** Spread Your Wings / The Bird

Stick clip first bolt, ruffle your feathers, spread your wings then ascend this 45 degree overhanging arete.

3 RB to mantle and top out trending Left

Set by Steve Kloske, Damien Rua

FA: Damien Rua, 2013

FFA: Damien Rua, 2013

26Sport 7m, 3
4 Project Spread your wings

The Right hand (3rd) bolt on the bird / spread your wings. please stay off until sent

FA: Steve Kloske

Sport Project
5 Play on Through

Climb out left passing 3 RB’s then mantel to top out belay off 2 RB’s.

FFA: Clint Westbrook,Phil Box, 2009

22Sport 12m
6 Par 3

Right most route. 3 RB's to top, rap off tree.

FFA: Clint Westbrook, 2009

12Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
7 Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder Cure Corner Unknown 14m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
8 The Back of the Chimney Trad 8m 1.7. Point Pure
The Middle of the Chimney Trad 8m 1.7. Point Pure
10 Treason Trad 7m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Tests And Titosterone Trad 9m 1.5. Green Lane
11 Lichenous Fury Trad 6m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The Big Nothing Trad 7m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
12 Sweetness And Light Trad 10m 1.5. Green Lane
Don Juan's Appendix Trad 12m 1.7. Point Pure
The Forgotten Name RHV Trad 12m 1.7. Point Pure
Par 3 Sport 8m 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder
13 Pottery Class Sport 12m, 4 1.1. Terracotta Warrior
Crack Chaser Trad 16m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
One Legged Dog Sport 18m, 7 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Meandering Maze Unknown 35m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The End Is Nigh Sport 12m 1.5. Green Lane
*** The Great Barrier Reef Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
* Bio Logic Sport 12m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
14 Found the Salt Sport 13m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
The Dog's Paw Sport 15m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
2 For Tea Sport 35m, 10 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Giftzwerg Trad 8m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Lilliputian Trad 6m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Piccolo Trad 6m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Rumpelstilzchen Trad 7m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Travails of a Tripping Termite Trad 30m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Tom's Turnips Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
* Suddenly Sober Mixed 20m, 4 1.7. Point Pure
15 French Bandit Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
My Brother's Crack Whore Girlfriend Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Orchid Lane Sport 14m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Miss Kandy Kane Sport 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Miss Manners Sport 20m, 5 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Tea for 2 Mixed 35m, 5 1.4. Eagle's Nest
A walk in the garden Trad 10m 1.5. Green Lane
Book Em' Danno Sport 10m 1.5. Green Lane
Grey Nurse Sport 10m, 5 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Irukandji Sport 7m, 2 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
* Coco Pops Sport 30m, 7 1.7. Point Pure
MD Sport 30m, 8 1.7. Point Pure
After The Gold Rush Sport 13m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Fast Food - That’s what she said. Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Happy Meals make Good Meals Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
The Rainbow Road Show Sport 13m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Which toy do you want? Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
V0 There's Just No Need For That Boulder 3m 1.10. The Rain Cave
16 Go the Dog Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Terracotta Warrior
Gutter Ball Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Terracotta Warrior
* Snake Charmer Sport 18m, 7 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
* Sun Chaser Sport 15m, 4 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Via the rainbow Sport 12m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Chicken Wings Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Choss And Chickenheads Trad 45m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy Sport 45m, 8 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Pantsed Trad 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* The Pioneer Sport 40m, 11 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Inspiration Trad 8m 1.5. Green Lane
New Day Rising Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Becalmed Sport 13m, 6 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Cold Fusion Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
I'm Not Lichen It Trad 10m 1.7. Point Pure
Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
Over De'void Sport 15m 1.7. Point Pure
The Forgotten Name Sport 12m 1.7. Point Pure
Lichen this lichen Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
The Clinterous Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
The Licking Lichen King Sport 7m, 4 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
17 * The Enticer Sport 14m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
(Unknown 2) Trad 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** 2,4,5 T Sport 42m, 7 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Free Range Heggs Sport 20m, 8 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Little Ray Of Sunshine Sport 45m, 10 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Prospector Unknown 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Send Me an Angel Sport 40m, 11 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill Trad 8m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The Skirt Trad 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Thanks For The Fish Sport 10m 1.5. Green Lane
The Dirty Corner Trad 8m 1.5. Green Lane
No More Gaps Trad 10m 1.7. Point Pure
Sand In My Pants Trad 15m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
30c Conner Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Burger Queen Sport Project 7m, 5 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
18 ** Terracota Warrior Sport 12m, 4 1.1. Terracotta Warrior
* Annabelistic Sport 18m, 7 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Bio-organic plasma gun Sport 13m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
* Pink Panzer Sport 17m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
* Digit Crucifixion Mixed 10m, 1 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Prima Diva Sport 8m, 3 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Private Investigation Trad 25m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Up a Rat in a Drainpipe Sport 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Herb's In The Fernery Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Chironex Sport 8m, 3 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Hook Line And Sinker Sport 10m, 5 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Not On Porpoise Sport 8m, 4 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad RHV Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
Stone Merino Trad 15m 1.7. Point Pure
* The Cornflake Climb Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
Unknown Trad 15m 1.7. Point Pure
Super Size Yo Mumma Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
19 ** Beyond the Black Stump Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
* Footprints on the Other Side Sport 18m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Passage Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Leave No Tern Unstoned Mixed 13m, 2 1.4. Eagle's Nest
*** Looking For The Sun Mixed 40m, 4 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The Dog's Day Off Trad 10m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Uzis On Speed RHV Trad 18m 1.5. Green Lane
Overhanging Corner Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
* Reid Mixed 15m, 3 1.7. Point Pure
Unleash the Swarm Sport 15m, 5 1.7. Point Pure
Will there be fries with that? Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
V1 Zilch Boulder 1.10. The Rain Cave
20 ** Dreamcatcher Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Foreign Exchange Sport 10m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
* Spike Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
The Animal Within Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Hanuman's Hangout
Bust A Move Mixed 10m, 4 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Community Sport 17m, 4 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Let's Bail Trad 10m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Catch Of The Day Sport 10m, 5 1.6. Hammerhead Rock
Rainy Day Sport 9m 1.7. Point Pure
Sunny Day Sport 10m 1.7. Point Pure
The Jamb Crack Trad 15m 1.7. Point Pure
Your Hovercraft Is Full Of Potatoes Sport 20m 1.7. Point Pure
** Red Jocks, look anywhere but there Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
V2 Come And Get Me Boulder 4m 1.10. The Rain Cave
21 Coral Reef Sport 12m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Hand in the honey pot Sport 18m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Rename Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Right Of Passage Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Sand in your pants Sport 16m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
** Spank the Monkey Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Spider Fingers Sport 15m, 5 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Hanuman's Eye Sport 15m, 6 1.3. Hanuman's Hangout
** Celluloid Hero Sport 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Angel Dust Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Coexisting With Insanity Sport 8m 1.5. Green Lane
** DH4 Sport 7m 1.5. Green Lane
Green eggs and spam Sport 8m 1.5. Green Lane
* Herb's And Spices Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Herbal Tea Sport 10m 1.5. Green Lane
** Uzis On Speed Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
DH1 Trad 4m 1.7. Point Pure
* The Missing Link Sport 8m 1.7. Point Pure
* Awesome Wells Sport 15m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
Sheep Clothing Trad 13m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
Suitboy Trad 13m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
Gymp is Sleeping Sport 15m, 5 1.9. Gymp Crag
* The Gymp Was a Boy From The Bluies Sport 10m, 5 1.9. Gymp Crag
* Goofballs and Grease Traps Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
22 * Oniondated Sport 10m, 3 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
** Johnny Gun Sport 15m, 4 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Prima Donna Sport 8m, 3 1.4. Eagle's Nest
DH3 Trad 6m 1.5. Green Lane
** Herb's Hammer Sport 10m 1.5. Green Lane
** Sea Of Fools Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
* Ship Of Tools Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Big Mouth Short Crack Trad 20m 1.7. Point Pure
Figjam Trad 8m 1.7. Point Pure
* Orange Flavoured Hand Grenade Sport 8m 1.7. Point Pure
* Sinister Exaggerator Sport 15m, 4 1.7. Point Pure
*** The Great Devoid Sport 15m 1.7. Point Pure
* Awesome Fearsome Sport 15m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
** What a Whopper Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
Play on Through Sport 12m 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder
V3 Just Keep Hanging On Boulder 6m 1.10. The Rain Cave
21 to 23 Onion Rings Sport Project 7m, 5 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
23 The Animal Within LHV Sport 12m 1.3. Hanuman's Hangout
** Blinky Bill's American Breakfast Sport 8m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Bosnian Broth Sport 7m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Fatman Scoop Sport 20m, 4 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Spoonmate Sport Project 21m, 7 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Stepping Stone Sport 10m, 3 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Tally-Ho The Fox Trad 25m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Who Is On First! Trad 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Hate Crimes Mixed 15m, 4 1.5. Green Lane
Mr Medium Man Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
No Ethics Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
No Scruples Sport 15m 1.5. Green Lane
DH2 Trad 6m 1.7. Point Pure
The Big Bad Wolf Sport 15m, 5 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
** The Gymp Was Disturbed Sport 10m, 7 1.9. Gymp Crag
Hole in One Sport 12m 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder
24 ** Shake and Bake Sport 15m 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
** Bats In The Belfry Sport 15m, 8 1.3. Hanuman's Hangout
* Slave To Gravity Sport 15m 1.3. Hanuman's Hangout
*** Central To Blackheath Sport 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Woosah Sport 1.4. Eagle's Nest
** Pipeline Sport 15m, 5 1.7. Point Pure
Tight As A Drum Sport 30m, 5 1.7. Point Pure
* Predator Trad 13m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
Whopper Flopper Sport 15m 1.11. Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper
25 ** Little Wednesday Sport 8m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
(Project - Woosah) Unknown 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Dreaming of the Blueys Sport 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Lithgow Layback Sport 15m, 3 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The Great Knut Sport 18m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Sliding Into Cheeseburger Hell Trad 15m 1.5. Green Lane
Barroom Brawl Sport 7m 1.7. Point Pure
* Losing Fingers Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Point Pure
Lower Tier Sport 9m, 4 1.7. Point Pure
** Pebbles Sport 22m, 6 1.7. Point Pure
** Yellow Country Teeth Sport 8m, 4 1.7. Point Pure
Yellow Country Teeth Extention Sport 18m 1.7. Point Pure
V5 Crimp & Dyno (Boulder Version) Boulder 1.4. Eagle's Nest
26 * Big Friday Sport Project 12m, 6 1.2. Black Stump Buttresses
Crimp And Dyno Sport 7m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
The time is right Sport 15m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
*** Spread Your Wings Sport 7m, 3 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder
27 * Nosferatu Sport 10m, 4 1.7. Point Pure
* Reverse Psychology Sport 15m, 5 1.7. Point Pure
28 *** Perverse Pyschology Sport 28m, 7 1.7. Point Pure
* Carnivore Sport 9m 1.8. The Wolf's Lair
? (Unknown 4) Trad 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Gully Project-Closed Sport Project 10m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Inspector Unknown 20m 1.4. Eagle's Nest
Project Matt-Closed Sport 1.4. Eagle's Nest
* Sauron Project Sport Project 17m, 6 1.7. Point Pure
*** The Mordor Project Sport Project 17m, 5 1.7. Point Pure
Graeme Page Project. Sport Project 8m 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder
Project Spread your wings Sport Project 1.12. Golf Ball Boulder