Section navigation

Description:© (hotgemini)

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crackline. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993


Located in Eagle's Nest approx:
Long/Lat: 152.524299,-26.142222

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 *** *** ACA Route Register
19 *** The Original Queensland Climbing Reference

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed pumped solid challenging hard beautiful fun nice perfect fantastic good amazing classy great classic awesome scary fall tricky rest arete crazy stout short easy bad cruisy smooth sharp

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Looking For The Sun (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.