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Summary

This crag has a few decent climbs suitable for beginners on solid rock, even if they a bit short. It is nice and shady in the morning.

Approach

From the campground, follow the Chalwell Galleries track. On joining the track, you will see the crag on the front of the hill to the right. Follow the main track for approx. 200m and then turn off R into the gum trees following a minor trail. The trail goes through the trees to the base of the hill and then traverses rightwards (rising as it goes) around the hill. Keep following it to reach the slab with Keep Yourself Nice and Stand On Your Hands. Continue R along the base working your way upwards (with a small section of scrambling) to get to Fractured Fairytales area.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Rap anchor at end of first slab (grade 8-10ish up to this point).

FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Clip 1st BR of Fractured Fairytales, then head straight up past another BR through a bouldery crux. Take some gear for the top. A good top-rope anchor can be set using wires under the mini-roof.

FA: Paul Martin & Rick webb, 2002

Step across the gap (preferably clipping a BR first), then traverse left. Clip another BR before climbing around the nose and then up.

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