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Description

Dreamworld are the obvious boulders 40m from the road, on your R as you approach the Horn car park. Park at the lowest end of the Horn carpark. Wander back down the road for 100m. The path, sometimes marked by a cairn, drops down the embankment and goes between the two biggest boulders. There's a little scrambling for the last 20m but it's still only a 3min access!

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Continental Drift Mixed 12m, 2

The right arête of the west-most face.

2
18 Trouble In Taggerty Mixed 15m, 1

Start between 'Continental Drift' and 'Buffalo Soldier', head up and right to clip the 2nd bolt on CD, then left to BS, finishing right over semi-detached block/flake.

3
16 * Buffalo Soldier Trad 13m
4
18 * The Dead Heart Trad 15m

The first 2/3 of this was retro-bolted during the retro-bolt of 'Spaceman Spiff"

5

Starts 2m right of "This is not our land". Up on good flakes past 6 glue in m10 g304 stainless bolts. Fun, good warm up for "This is not our land" but better protected.

Was originally a very bold trad route, but was inadvertently retro-bolted and renamed to 'The Day After Invasion Day' in 2012, presumably as a result of an incorrect topo in the 2006 guidebook, which showed 'Spaceman Spiff' as being several meters right of the climb's actual location.

FA: Bill Ottaway & Kiersten Price, 1989

6
20 ** This Is Not Our Land Sport 15m, 3

The left side of the left dyke, wandering rightwards slightly as it goes up. Three carrot bolts. Harder if you're short.

7
21 to 23 ** Injustice Mixed 15m, 4

The left arête of the west-most face. 3 carrot bolts, one fixed hanger and a couple of sling placements.

Grade varies greatly dependant on height, grade 21 if over 6', much harder if shorter.

8
29 Gondwanaland Sport 12m, 4

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

FA: Gerhard Horhager

9

The east face of the 'This Is Not Our Land' boulder, and opposite to 'Beware the Strathbogie'. Two carrot bolts.

10
19 Mind Meld Unknown 15m, 2
11

The wall covered in protrusions, left of 'Eat Your Vegies'. Starts as for 'Needlepoint For Beginners', but then steps over the void to the juggy wall opposite.

12
14 Eat Your Vegies Trad 15m
13
21 Blood Meridian Unknown 25m
14
23 Death Can Be Fatal Unknown 25m
15
14 Cameo Unknown 25m
16
13 Antagony Trad 15m
17
18 Two Old Plonkers Sport 12m
18
19 Joe's New Slab Sport 12m
19
21 ** Medusa Sport 14m
20
20 Deshevelled Sport 12m
22
20 * Peace Is Quiet Unknown 14m

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