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Description

Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere

Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection.

© (jgoding)

Approach

About 1/3 the way down the mountain you will find a hair pin bend with a sign on the left (as you drive down) saying "Mackey's lookout". To get to 'Stiletto' 'Slabs' park here, walk across the road (past the prominent sign post on the right), up "The Big Walk" for about 10mins. Just before (say 30-50m) you reach the stream (which turns into the waterfall on the main face) contour left along the white slabs, cross the waterfall (carefully) and abseil down the far side (right as you look OUT from the cliff) from a rappel station (2 rings) on an easy to get to huge boulder. Rap is 25m to another rap. 55m is the next rap, so make sure you have suitable ropes. It is about 40m from the rap below to the bottom of the (new) routes described here.

For access to the 'Noblesse Oblige' area see separate access notes in that section.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Flatfoot Unknown 130m

Essentially an escape off left from 'Stiletto'

2
15 * Stiletto Trad 180m

Start: Starts at the inverted V overlap with a small natural stair formation beneath L of centre of the slab.

  1. 25m (15) Up the stair formation and around the bush, lots of friable flakes.

  2. 55m (15) Follow the overlap to a bush on the lip. Onto the slab, along a thin vein above the lip, then L a few metres up an easy ramp. Up onto the slab and follow a faint crack up R to a small but distinct spike. Step R then continue up until you can move back L to an insecure belay on the L side of some large hollow flakes.

  3. 50m (15) Across the belay flakes, up past some small flakes, L along a ripple for about 5m then straight up the slab to the vegetated corner.

  4. 50m (15) Up to and delightfully along the undercling to the far side of the slab. Up to a ledge with a large tea-tree. The footpath is a short scramble up.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Mark Shelton, Peter Watling, 1976

3
17 Dry Weather Road Trad 170m

(1) 40m Start up 1st pitch of 'Stiletto', but when on slab above corner, head up and R to BB on narrow curving ledge. (2) 40m (crux) Up past 2BRs and thin flake to 2BB on narrow ledge. (3) 40m Up (run out) to 2BB in a scoop below a small overlap. (4) 45m Easily to top.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Graeme Parton, 1984

4
22 * Weekend Hustlers Trad 35m

Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' .

Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Gledhill, 2008

5

Lovely slab climbing. Consistent. Take 5 bolt plates.

Start: Starts on a small ledge about 35m off the ground level on the 'Stiletto' slab wall, just left (say 4-5m) of the waterfall at DBB (glue in M10x100mm carrots). *This is around 8-10m right (facing in) from the start/belay rings of 'No Ego'.

FA: Josef Goding, Ian Smith, 2008

6
18 Mirror Image Trad 130m

Clean sustained slab climbing.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, David Proll, 1988

7
21 ** Spit And Polish Trad 120m

Thin, sustained and slippery.

Start: Start in the gully R of the 'Stiletto' slab below the steepening.

FA: (2) Mike Law(1&3) and FCA Geoff Gledhill, James McIntosh (alts), Peter Watling March 1992, 1991

8
16 * Brake Failure Trad 90m

Starts about two-thirds the way up the fi rst pitch of 'High Heels'. (1) 45m (crux) About 5m below the belay of 'High Heels', traverse L to the start of an incipient zig-zag crack. Up this to a grassy ledge at the start of the corner. (2) 45m The corner then the slab.

FA: Mike Law, Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1979

9
13 High Heels Trad 100m

(1) 20m From where the gully steepens, continue up to belay beside the slab. (2) 40m Climb the slab keeping as far to the L as prudent. Belay above the overlap. (3) 40m The faint groove and beyond.

Start: Starts in the gully on the R side of the 'Stiletto' Slab.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Joe Friend (alts), 1978

10
10 The Indelible Shuffle Unknown 83m

Easy but unprotected slabbing. It is quite possible that the last couple of pitches of 'Good Luck And Good Management' merge into this route. Follow the walking track from the hairpin bend to the first bend in the track. Traverse across the hillside for about 50 metres until the edge of the slab is reached. Descend next to the slab for about 15 metres to a scrubby ledge on the right (facing out).

P1 (53m, 10) Go up past right edge of an overlap, swing up left onto slab above. Straight up black rock for about 15 metres to a traverse line and go 5 metres left to a grassy scoop. Follow the line directly above until it meets a dyke on the left. Up dyke for a couple of metres to belay off a small wire just past a small overlap on left. P2 (30m, -) Stroll up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1978

11

A good line, good rock, good gear in a great environment. Take 10 bolt plates for the first pitch.

  1. 42m (16) Start at small curving ledge (DBB). Sustained enjoyable face climbing on thin rails. Follow the white streak past 8 BR crossing large flakes at 3/4 height. 5m below belay scoop traverse right along break to weakness on right.

  2. 55m (15) Start at lovely belay scoop (DBB with double captive rap rings). Up prominent white streak, directly above belay. Very thin, balancy, and sustained. Would be easier if cool or in overcast conditions. DBB with link chain and single captive rap ring. (All ring bolts - no hangers required)

  3. 27m (7) Straight up from belay crossing small overlap. 2 glue in ring bolts. Ends at DBB (each with captive rap ring) on easy to get to large boulder at top of cliff, roughly level with the waterfall where it briefly goes vertical.

FA: Josef Goding(P1), Nicholas Allan, Michael Milne (P2), 2008

12
16 * No Ego Sport 40m

Consistent at the grade and very enjoyable.

Start: Best to rap in (25m first, then 55m 2nd rap then 40m 3rd rap) from the far side of the waterfall as you walk in.

FA: Nicholas Allan, Josef Goding, Michael Milnes, 2008

13
13 R * The Bleeding Nun Trad 520m

Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts.

FA: A. Herdman, D. Filan (alt leads)

14

Classic easy slab climbing. Takes a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hexes are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground.

Stash a bicycle near the top beforehand, for an easy way back down to retrieve the car afterwards.

Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes. The climb takes about 2-3 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

  1. 35m (8) Head up right to a short crack with a flake at the top at 10m, then leftwards past another flake then a BR, to belay in a big scoop off a single bolt and gear.

  2. 30m (8) Climb up past flakes to 2 BB in a deep bushy scoop.

  3. 40m (13) Go right up to a poor sling runner, BR, and then past another sling to a double bolt belay in a scoop.

  4. 40m (12) Up past BR to a dyke at 30m, walk R to a sling and bolt belay.

  5. 40m (8) Back left to black streak and up past BR, belay off a bollard and a bolt. The next pitch is a full 50m, so if you're using 50m rope(s) don't use any of it in this belay.

  6. 50m (6) Traverse diagonally right past a crack, a thread-able flake and more cracks to a bush in the black streak on the next buttress to the right. Up black streak to double bolt belay.

  7. 40m (6) Up streak past gear in scoops to bolt belay.

  8. 40m (8) Head up slightly rightwards (~ 12.30 o'clock direction) past 2 bolts, a bush and up white slab to double bolt belay on ledge.

  9. 100m (4) Continue scrambling in this 12.30 o'clock direction up the dirty slabby buttress to the "Great Walk" track. If still pitching, belay off a cam in an overlap then step R and walk up. Walk 30m right to the road.

Classic easy slab climbing. Takes a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hex's are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground.

Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes. The climb takes about 2-3 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack.

FA: Mikl Law, Geoff Gledhill Easter 1976, retro-bolted 2007

15

A good honest easy adventure route.

Start: From the gully left of Noblesse Obliege, below a small flake leading on to the slab.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Anthony Pattison, 2008

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