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Description

A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around

Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:

'Maharajah' (17**)

Bloodknok (17**)

'Sultan' (20***)

Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch (you can rap in), although the stunning first pitch is fairly safe (take trad) and substantially improves the affair.

Sunrunner (22**)

The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.

'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)

Substance Abuse (24***)

The Dreaming (23***)

© (jgoding)

Approach

It's about half way from 'Lake Catani' / The Chalet to the Horn (at the end of the road).

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Precious Unknown 20m
2
17 Jaws Unknown 15m
3
12 Chimp Section Unknown 20m
4
23 Seven Veils Sport 20m, 4

About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals...

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1997

5
20 Hair Trigger Sport 25m
6
21 * caravanserai Unknown 20m

FA: Dayle Gilliat and Michael Woodrow, 1997

7
21 *** Sultan Trad 65m

Majestic.

Start: Start at the commandingly wide corner (with a dog leg to the left halfway up) leading towards the big roof.

  1. 20m (20) Follow the wide corner, passing an old aid bolt that is now superseded by a large cam (#4 Camalot or equiv.). Move on up to belay in the cave.

  2. 15m (15) Up the short wall to the R and skirt around R to an alcove to belay (with 1 carrot bolt, plus gear).

  3. 30m (18) A fantastic finalé. An awkward start leads to an amazing collection of big flakes stacked on top of each other, creating a wonderful line of jugs. Once the holds run out, run it out up the slab above to the top of the pinnacle (DBB).

8
15 Sultan Variant Unknown 15m
9
24 * King For A Day Unknown 20m
10
15 Easy Rider Unknown 28m
12
24 Ravi Variant Unknown 40m
14
17 *** Maharajah Trad 42m

Wonderful - There are a number of start options which join further up. Easily done in two pitches.

  1. 24m (17) If you have the necessary gear, go straight up to the platform.

  2. 18m (17) Up the corner and then the slab to the summit chain belay/rap station. Descent: Rap into the canyon behind and scramble easily around to the start.

FA: John Ewbank, Alec Campbell (several aids), 29th Dec

FFA: John Ewbank, John Worral., 1968

15
16
20 * Strange Angels Unknown 15m
18
24 Bustardos Inglesis Sport 12m
19
21 Huns Don't Cruise Unknown 10m
21
21 Castles In The Sand Unknown 35m
22
19 * Fire in the Foothills Mixed 25m, 7

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 5 or 6 BRs to ubolts.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs, 2006

23
18 Shell Shock Unknown 30m
24
25 * Chronic Unknown 30m
25
24 Critical Mass Unknown 15m
26
23 ** Contact Sport Unknown 20m
27
13 Compulsion Trad 30m
28
29
20 Bloodnok Direct Start Unknown 18m
31
17 * Bloodnok Trad 27m
32
18 Bloodrot Unknown 26m
33
19 The Viking Unknown 40m
34
22 * Sunrunner Unknown 18m

FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger

35
6 Long Cracks Unknown 83m
36
16 Tyros Terror Unknown 120m
37
23 *** The Dreaming Unknown 90m
38
22 * Woodpecker Wall Unknown 90m
39
24 *** Substance Abuse Unknown 95m
40
14 Calliope Unknown 90m
41
15 Calliope Variant Unknown 12m
42
21 *** Edge Of Pleasure Mixed 90m, 12
43
13 Grunter Unknown 78m
44
12 The Mudshark Unknown 91m
45
22 Twin Cracks Unknown 35m
46
16 Desperation Crack Unknown 55m
48
16 The Pinch Unknown 48m
49
20 Lord High Executioner Unknown 46m
50
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice Unknown 35m
51
19 Longbow Unknown 18m
52
15 Getaway Unknown 10m

FA: Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers, 2006

53
18 Spitten Chips Unknown 30m
54
23 The Crack Of Anguish Unknown 20m
55
16 Crack Of Pleasure Unknown 15m
56
17 Camden Groove Unknown 20m
57
18 * Total Recall Unknown 30m
58
16 Rod's HR Unknown 40m
59
23 Cowboy Logic Unknown 30m
60
21 Caravanseri Unknown 20m
61
21 The Edge Of Pleasure Unknown 75m

Open trips

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