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Description

A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around

Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:

'Maharajah' (17**)

Bloodknok (17**)

'Sultan' (20***)

Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.

Sunrunner (22**)

The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.

'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)

Substance Abuse (24***)

The Dreaming (23***)

© (jgoding)

Approach

It's about half way from 'Lake Catani' / The Chalet to the Horn (at the end of the road). Obviously visible from the road. Follow the Cathedral/Hump walking track until you reach an obvious track leading off towards the base of the cathedral.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Fist crack in v groove on left side of the gulch through the Cathedral. May be a little hard and you will probably loose a lot of skin.

About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals...

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1997

FA: Dayle Gilliat & Michael Woodrow, 1997

Majestic.

Start: Start at the commandingly wide corner (with a dog leg to the left halfway up) leading towards the big roof.

  1. 20m (20) Follow the wide corner, passing an old aid bolt that is now superseded by a large cam (#4 Camalot or equiv.). Move on up to belay in the cave.

  2. 15m (15) Up the short wall to the R and skirt around R to an alcove to belay (with 1 carrot bolt, plus gear).

  3. 30m (18) A fantastic finalé. An awkward start leads to an amazing collection of big flakes stacked on top of each other, creating a wonderful line of jugs. Once the holds run out, run it out up the slab above to the top of the pinnacle (DBB).

Descent as for Maharaja (17).

FA: Ewbank & John Worral, 1968

FFA: Mike Law & Nic Taylor, 1974

Continue straight up the crack in the right wall after the crux of Sultan (so the whole route is actually 20) to join the end of the second pitch.

FA: K Lindorff & J Boreham, 1981

The left most start to Maharajah up the hand to fist corner crack and makes for a nice direct line up the whole route which you can do as one long pitch.

Wonderful - There are a number of start options which join further up. Easily done in two pitches, or even one with the more direct starts.

This route was the first to actually summit the pinnacle.

  1. 24m (17) If you have the necessary gear, go straight up to the platform.

  2. 18m (17) Up the corner and then the unprotected slab to the summit chain belay/rap station.

Descent: Rap into the canyon behind and scramble easily around to the start.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell (several aids), 1964

FFA: John Ewbank & John Worral., 1968

Quite technical. Start as for Maharajah RHV then up past 4 BRs to abseil ring.

FA: Nick White, 1992

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

Furthest left line of bolts across small gully from Maharaja.

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 5 or 6 BRs to ubolts.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2006

Go right after first bolt.

None of the possible starts to this route are well protected. Make your way into the obvious corner on the buttress below Maharajah (visable from the road) and up that. Take plenty of 2-4 camalot sized gear.

The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors.

The right hand line. Wander up the easily angled start from the right, grunt through the roof and up the nice crack.

Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

(possibly best done by rapping into the top pitch from above and only climbing top pitch)

Starts quite far around the base of the cathedral, just keep walking... Starts in gully with two cracks and a wide, boulder-filled chimney on the right. Recommended to leave bags near start of Maharaja and walking in with climbing gear as rap descent is to near start of Maharaja.

  1. 40m. Start in heavily vegetated crack in middle of gully. Move up past ledge and multiple flaring cracks and bulge to large belay ledge.

  2. 40m (all sport). Brilliant and well-protected arete climbing with amazing exposure. Definitely worth 3 stars. Original anchors for pitch 2 are in need of replacement, but there is good natural anchor setup with medium-large cams.

Once topped out, jump across small gully to right (facing out) and rap 25m off double U bolt anchor to start of shell shock/fire in the foothills.

FA: Ian anger & Greg Moore, 1992

These cracks which don't quite reach the ground or the top are quite obvious from the walk up.

FA: Cameron McKenzie & Anita Gowers, 2006

Activity

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