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Description:© (deano)


Start: Start at the commandingly wide corner (with a dog leg to the left halfway up) leading towards the big roof.

  1. 20m (20) Follow the wide corner, passing an old aid bolt that is now superseded by a large cam (#4 Camalot or equiv.). Move on up to belay in the cave.

  2. 15m (15) Up the short wall to the R and skirt around R to an alcove to belay (with 1 carrot bolt, plus gear).

  3. 30m (18) A fantastic finalé. An awkward start leads to an amazing collection of big flakes stacked on top of each other, creating a wonderful line of jugs. Once the holds run out, run it out up the slab above to the top of the pinnacle (DBB).

Descent as for Maharaja (17).

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ewbank & John Worral, 9 Dec 1968

    Alts 18 M5

  • First Free Ascent: Mike Law & Nic Taylor, Dec 1974


Located in The Cathedral approx:
Lat/Long: -36.755239,146.786843

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
20 Macciza a.k.a. Macca
20 *** ACA Route Register
20 Mt Buffalo
21 OZ Rock
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 87%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired crux sustained tough hard pleasant super fun cool nice fantastic good brilliant amazing classy great enjoyable superb awesome scary fall tricky committing feet rest interesting awkward roof flake easy undercling jamming traverse crack

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