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Description:© (koala)

Wonderful - There are a number of start options which join further up. Easily done in two pitches, or even one with the more direct starts.

This route was the first to actually summit the pinnacle.

  1. 24m (17) If you have the necessary gear, go straight up to the platform.

  2. 18m (17) Up the corner and then the unprotected slab to the summit chain belay/rap station.

Descent: Rap into the canyon behind and scramble easily around to the start.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell (several aids), 29 Dec 1964

  • First Free Ascent: John Ewbank & John Worral., 9 Dec 1968


Located in The Cathedral approx:
Lat/Long: -36.755239,146.786843

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 RockGUIDE: Victoria
17 *** ACA Route Register
17 Mt Buffalo

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 82%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained desperate hard fun cool nice good amazing great wicked classic superb awesome magic pleasant rad perfect brilliant enjoyable exposed steep rest interesting layback balancy flake easy jamming offwidth traverse crack

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