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Description:

(possibly best done by rapping into the top pitch from above and only climbing top pitch)

Starts quite far around the base of the cathedral, just keep walking... Starts in gully with two cracks and a wide, boulder-filled chimney on the right. Recommended to leave bags near start of Maharaja and walking in with climbing gear as rap descent is to near start of Maharaja.

  1. 40m. Start in heavily vegetated crack in middle of gully. Move up past ledge and multiple flaring cracks and bulge to large belay ledge.

  2. 40m (all sport). Brilliant and well-protected arete climbing with amazing exposure. Definitely worth 3 stars. Original anchors for pitch 2 are in need of replacement, but there is good natural anchor setup with medium-large cams.

Once topped out, jump across small gully to right (facing out) and rap 25m off double U bolt anchor to start of shell shock/fire in the foothills.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian anger & Greg Moore, 1992

Location:  

Located in The Cathedral approx:
Long/Lat: 146.786843,-36.755239

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 OZ Rock
21 ** Mt Buffalo
21 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained desperate tough hard pleasant amazing classic nice awesome scary runout arete dodgy crack

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