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Description:© (willmonks)

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

  1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

  2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

  3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

  4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

  5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

  6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

  7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

  8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

  9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

  10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank, Chris Baxter (pitches 1-4, M5 & pre), 1969

  • First Ascent: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (14M5 with hammers & 18-), 1969

  • First Ascent: Rick White, John Hattink (FCA & mids)., 1970


Located in The Gorge - North Side approx:
Long/Lat: 146.822557,-36.717068

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

*** Cameron Roy
14 M4 *** *** ACA Route Register
29 ** Mt Buffalo
29 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
M4 Principal
M4 ** James Hardy

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 93%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fantastic amazing great awesome bail roof

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