- Height: 280m
- Pitches: 10
- Breakdown: 22, M4
- Ascents: 48
- Description:© (Macciza)
24m (- M2) As for 'Ozymandias' p1.
34m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p2.
40m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p3.
6m (10) As for 'Ozymandias' p4 to Big Grassy.
30m (- M3) Leave Big Grassy as for 'Ozymandias', then take the R corner and head up to TBB.
25m (- M3) Up the bolt ladder to the belay under the roof.
37m (- M4) Wander out the line through the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Belay at the large collection of bolts (the Gledhill Bivvy).
30m (- M3) Head R on bolts then turn the roof and up to ramp. Cut back L and then up the wide crack behind the Pontooth (some fixed pegs and big cams). Up deep crack to DBB.
40m (10 M2) Continue up trending slightly R at some stage to base of chimney (DBB, belay possible), then head up chimney to ledge with plaque.
15m (- M3) The offwidth corner. It is possible to use the thin crack/seam on the L wall until it peters out and the use of wide gear becomes necessary.
- Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo
Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.
- There is no known route history.
Located in North Wall approx:
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Route Grade Citations
|M4||Community registered grade|
|10 M4 ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 95%
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