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Description:© (Macciza)
  1. 24m (- M2) As for 'Ozymandias' p1.

  2. 34m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p2.

  3. 40m (- M4) As for 'Ozymandias' p3.

  4. 6m (10) As for 'Ozymandias' p4 to Big Grassy.

  5. 30m (- M3) Leave Big Grassy as for 'Ozymandias', then take the R corner and head up to TBB.

  6. 25m (- M3) Up the bolt ladder to the belay under the roof.

  7. 37m (- M4) Wander out the line through the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Belay at the large collection of bolts (the Gledhill Bivvy).

  8. 30m (- M3) Head R on bolts then turn the roof and up to ramp. Cut back L and then up the wide crack behind the Pontooth (some fixed pegs and big cams). Up deep crack to DBB.

  9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up trending slightly R at some stage to base of chimney (DBB, belay possible), then head up chimney to ledge with plaque.

  10. 15m (- M3) The offwidth corner. It is possible to use the thin crack/seam on the L wall until it peters out and the use of wide gear becomes necessary.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in North Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.718801,146.820604

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

M4 Community registered grade
Cameron Roy
10 M4 *** ACA Route Register
22,M4 Mt Buffalo

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 94%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained hard good amazing super great beautiful fun awesome bail awkward epic roof technical

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