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Some of the climbs here are ok, but negotiating the slippery descent is horrendous. In years gone by the chalet rubbish bins were emptied into this gully, so that now the ground here is 1 part dirt, 1 part slippery loose leaf litter, and 1 part shards of razor sharp glass ... all at an angle of 45+ degrees. Bring sturdy footwear, and possibly heavy gloves in case you unexpectedly put a hand down.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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FA: 2005


Check out what is happening in Glass Gully.