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Description

The biggest buttress on the wall.

© (Macciza)

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Mephistopheles Unknown 200m
2
23 * Pearly Gates Unknown 110m
3

Usually done in 7 or 8 pitches.

4
16 M1 WAFTT Original Variant Unknown 230m

The worthless route taken by the first attempt on what is now the classic climb;

5

Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.

6
18 M4 Fools Rush In Aid 230m 2
7
18 Fool's Gold Unknown 160m
8
18 M1 Charon Aid 230m 2
9
18 Charon Direct Finish Unknown 140m
10
20 The Fallen Angel Unknown 220m

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