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The wall immediately below the only wheelchair-accessible lookout at the gorge, near the left-hand end of the gorge carpark (if facing towards the gorge).


Approach the wheelchair-accessible lookout, but stay to the right of the walkway when the fence begins. Then duck left under the walkway and continue down, taking care. You will pass a wide crack (the back of Cacophonic Crack), then continue following the wall around to the right until you come to the ledge at the base of climbs 1-3. Most other climbs come up the slab below this ledge, except for Bureaucrat, which is accessed via Glass Gully.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.



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Grade Route
21 * Cacophonic Crack Trad 15m

The obvious crack at the right-hand end of the wall. It starts as a hand crack and rapidly widens, getting to around 250mm width by the top.

FA: Ian Thomas & John Fantini, 1974

FFA: Henry Barber, 1975

M3 * Thanksgiving Crack Aid 15m, 1

The thin crack in the middle of the wall, which widens in the last meter. One carrot bolt just before the awkward topout.

FA: Chris Baxter & Rein Kamar, 1970

M4 The Cream Machine Aid 14m

The crack 4m left of Thanksgiving Crack, ending in a bush.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1970

21 * Bureaucrat Trad 110m
22 M0 Madame La Guillotine Aid 15m, 2

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

18 Autocrat Unknown 75m
20 Autocrat Direct Finish Unknown 40m
20 Three Amigos Unknown 25m
22 Mayday Unknown 65m


Check out what is happening in Disabled Lookout Area.