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Description

The wall immediately below the only wheelchair-accessible lookout at the gorge, near the left-hand end of the gorge carpark (if facing towards the gorge).

Approach

Approach the wheelchair-accessible lookout, but stay to the right of the walkway when the fence begins. Then duck left under the walkway and continue down, taking care. You will pass a wide crack (the back of Cacophonic Crack), then continue following the wall around to the right until you come to the ledge at the base of climbs 1-3. Most other climbs come up the slab below this ledge, except for Bureaucrat, which is accessed via Glass Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Cacophonic Crack Trad 15m

The obvious crack at the right-hand end of the wall. It starts as a hand crack and rapidly widens, getting to around 250mm width by the top.

FA: Ian Thomas, John Fantini, 1974

FFA: Henry Barber, 1975

2
M3 Thanksgiving Crack Aid 15m, 1

The thin crack in the middle of the wall, which widens in the last meter. One carrot bolt just before the awkward topout.

FA: Chris Baxter, Rein Kamar, 1970

3
M4 The Cream Machine Aid 14m

The crack 4m left of Thanksgiving Crack, ending in a bush.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1970

4
21 * Bureaucrat Trad 110m
5
22 M0 Madame La Guillotine Aid 15m

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

6
18 Autocrat Unknown 75m
7
20 Autocrat Direct Finish Unknown 40m
8
20 Three Amigos Unknown 25m
9
22 Mayday Unknown 65m