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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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Grade Route
19 Suburban Sausage Trad 30m
20 City Street Trad 30m
24 * Country Road Trad 27m, 2

First grade 24 in Australia.

FFA: Nic Taylor & Peter Watson, 1976

19 ** Comeback Trail Trad 29m

Route goes totally free at 18/19. Easy laybacking to some tricky moves through the roof. Great climbing.

FFA: Tim & scott crameri, 2016

22 * Banana Sundae Trad 30m

2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.

20 M2 Jumping Jack Flash Aid 40m, 2
17 ** Wicked Solitaire Trad 40m

Variant start to Wicked Solitaire. Climb the arete past 3 bolts.

20 The Short Reache Trad 42m

Wide crack/chimney R of WS. Rap in towards waterfall from WS rap point.

Up chimney, move Across into corner then up crack to belay on ledge. Scramble up L to top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Eddie Ozols, 1976


Rap in from tree a few metres to the right of LGL to belay off medium cams or just sit in tree.

Up not too steep hand / fist crack back to the top. No much of a warmup for LGL but might get some blood going and test your tape job if using it ....

FA: FTRSA Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2016

FFA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2016

22 ** Lift Girls Lament Trad 10m

Rap in from tree at top to belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.

Up the crack varying from fingers to thin hands to hands. Some may be rattle depending on your hand size, and will alter where the crux is accordingly.

Doubles of small/medium cams or medium to large wires if that way inclined. Hexes or TriCams would be fun and make it a bit more challenging for your second - if your that way inclined ...

FA: Ian Anger & Mal Grey, 1981

27 ** Bell Boys Bereavement Mixed 30m, 8

Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL.

FFA: Stuart Wyithe & Malcolm Matheson, 2000


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