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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Route goes free including the roof at around grade 21. Take lots of cams including some big stuff. It is clean in all the right areas and has some great climbing.

Prominent corner/roof/corner opposite Pulpit Rock. Rap in to good ledge.

FA: Dewhirst & Baxter, 1970

FFA: scott crameri & Tim, 2016

Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.

  1. 25m hard slab start, easing off after the steepening. Belay under the roof

  2. 25m Traverse right of the belay, steep move past a fixed hanger to overcome the roof. Up slab past another bolt.

FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982

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