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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 ** Highway 61 Trad 43m

Route goes free including the roof at around grade 21. Take lots of cams including some big stuff. It is clean in all the right areas and has some great climbing.

Prominent corner/roof/corner opposite Pulpit Rock. Rap in to good ledge.

FA: Dewhirst & Baxter, 1970

FFA: scott crameri & Tim, 2016

2
24 * The Mormon Sanction Unknown 85m
3
25 * Salt Lake City Unknown 170m
4
17 * Siesta Trad 20m
5
15 ** Fantasies Of Gail Trad 35m
6
23 True Dinks Unknown 35m
7
23 Dizzy Limits Unknown 40m
8
23 Commander Dildo Unknown 50m 2, 5

Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.

  1. 25m hard slab start, easing off after the steepening. Belay under the roof

  2. 25m Traverse right of the belay, steep move past a fixed hanger to overcome the roof. Up slab past another bolt.

FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982

9
20 X Pussy on the Prowl Trad 35m
10
23 ** Interstellar Boredom Unknown 38m
11
15 ** Falls Corner Unknown 70m
12
19 Pulsing Sally Unknown 30m
13
14
22 Chip Buttie Unknown 15m

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