A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. The Gorge - South Side
191 in Crag
- 1.1. Car Park Boulders 4 in Field
- 1.2. Glass Gully 16 in Cliff
- 1.3. Summit Rim 18 in Cliff
- 1.4. Chaos Gully 8 in Cliff
- 1.5. Mushroom Rock 12 in Cliff
- 1.6. Devilled Cream Buttress 18 in Cliff
- 1.7. Split Pinnacle Area 5 in Cliff
- 1.8. Isotope Wall 13 in Cliff
- 1.9. Angels' Buttress 10 in Cliff
- 1.10. Disabled Lookout Area 9 in Cliff
- 1.11. Bent's Lookout 21 in Cliff
- 1.12. Burston's Crevasse 12 in Cliff
- 1.13. Beowulf Area 7 in Cliff
- 1.14. Sewer Wall 10 in Cliff
- 1.15. The Oval Area 13 in Cliff
- 1.16. The Waterfall South Side 14 in Cliff
- 1.17. Cassia Corner 1 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityUnknown, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 146.823732, -36.721583
- Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo
Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.
- Description:© (willmonks)
The zero walk-in (the boulders are only a few metres from your car) is the only appeal. The 5 meter high micro routes really do look crap.
|1||Wee Willie Winkie||16||6m|
|2||Winkie Wanky Woo||12||8m|
|3||Now We Are Six||12||8m|
|4||When We Were Very Young||16||8m|
Long/Lat: 146.821645, -36.721798
- Description:© (willmonks)
Some of the climbs here are ok, but negotiating the slippery descent is horrendous. In years gone by the chalet rubbish bins were emptied into this gully, so that now the ground here is 1 part dirt, 1 part slippery loose leaf litter, and 1 part shards of razor sharp glass ... all at an angle of 45+ degrees. Bring sturdy footwear, and possibly heavy gloves in case you unexpectedly put a hand down.
|3||Wake In Fright||20||25m|
|4||Sleep In Peace||17||30m|
|5||Persona Non Grata||22||25m|
|13||Slip And Slide||21||40m|
|15||Crack Of Fat||22||30m|
Pathway to Mass Consumption
Unknown, Trad and other styles
Long/Lat: 146.823262, -36.721875
- Description:© (koala)
For a video of Ring a Ding Ding, see here! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmDP1RRh2CI&feature=related
|3||Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight||17||18m|
|4||Ring a Ding Ding||24||25m|
Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé
Rap in off the rings 20m right (facing out) of the hang-gliding ramp. Layback your way up the flake crack then follow the crack system trending right. Over a bush and youre back at the ramp (two fixed hangers on top of slab for belay).
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Giles Bradbury, Geoff Gledhill, Glenn Tempest, 1977
|8||Banana Milkshakes Rule||23||30m|
Vertical Tai Chi
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2005
Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks, 2005
|11||Horizontal Kung Fu||20||15m|
Great climbing, can be a little hard to find
Set by James McIntosh
FA: Bob Cowan, John Schwerdfeger, 1994
|13||Dont spare the horses||23||615m,|
FA: Bob Coran,Luke Fitzridge,Ryan Butler, 2000
Back in an Hour
Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay as for Home James.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Simon Murray, 2005
Long/Lat: 146.826790, -36.722552
|1||Loose Lips Sink Ships||24||25m|
|2||Show And Tell||23||30m|
|5||To Be Or Knot To Be||20||40m|
|6||A Cluttered Room||16||10m|
|7||Pretty Girls With Long Knives||23||130m|
|8||Stick-jumping Hippy Logic||22||95m|
Long/Lat: 146.825362, -36.722269
|2||The Southwest Face Of The Grand Champignon||13 M1||26m|
|9||Leathal Weapon II||23 M1||250m|
|12||Turtles All the Way Down||19||30m|
Unknown and Trad
Long/Lat: 146.824024, -36.721634
|4||The Crystal Edge||14||140m|
Vortex - Vertical Tai Chi connection
An exciting linkup from the top of Vortex's main dyke into Vertical Tai Chi's 2nd pitch. Belay in the corner at the top of Vortex's main difficulties. Around arete to delicately traverse (wire up in a high crack) across and up to a FH on VTC and finish as for that route.
FA: Goshen Watts, Andrew Clark, 2014
|7||Pythagorus' Perpendicular Pyramid||16||77m|
|13||The Devil Rides Out||25||72m|
Unknown and Trad
Long/Lat: 146.826293, -36.722148
|1||Spilt Pinnacle Direct||21||67m|
|2||The End Of The World||13||300m|
The Great Shark Hunt
FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1994
|5||The White Feather||16||100m|
Long/Lat: 146.823300, -36.721630
|1||Wild Blue Yonder||17||110m|
|3||Goat Island Variant||17||40m|
|4||Goat's Head Soup||19||50m|
|8||Diamond Dogs Direct Start||21||20m|
|12||Stumble On A Chimp's Dick||19||110m|
Unknown, Trad and Aid
Long/Lat: 146.821949, -36.720705
- Description:© (Macciza)
The biggest buttress on the wall.
Where Angels Fear to Tread / Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Finish
Usually done in 7 or 8 pitches.
WAFTT Original Variant
The worthless route taken by the first attempt on what is now the classic climb;
Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Start
Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.
|6||Fools Rush In||18 M4||2230m|
|9||Charon Direct Finish||18||140m|
|10||The Fallen Angel||20||220m|
Unknown, Aid and Trad
Long/Lat: 146.821418, -36.721702
The wall immediately below the only wheelchair-accessible lookout at the gorge, near the left-hand end of the gorge carpark (if facing towards the gorge).
Approach the wheelchair-accessible lookout, but stay to the right of the walkway when the fence begins. Then duck left under the walkway and continue down, taking care. You will pass a wide crack (the back of Cacophonic Crack), then continue following the wall around to the right until you come to the ledge at the base of climbs 1-3. Most other climbs come up the slab below this ledge, except for Bureaucrat, which is accessed via Glass Gully.
The obvious crack at the right-hand end of the wall. It starts as a hand crack and rapidly widens, getting to around 250mm width by the top.
FA: Ian Thomas, John Fantini, 1974
FFA: Henry Barber, 1975
The thin crack in the middle of the wall, which widens in the last meter. One carrot bolt just before the awkward topout.
FA: Chris Baxter, Rein Kamar, 1970
The Cream Machine
The crack 4m left of Thanksgiving Crack, ending in a bush.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1970
Madame La Guillotine
AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).
|7||Autocrat Direct Finish||20||40m|
Unknown, Aid and Trad
Long/Lat: 146.821323, -36.721155
|2||Willie Make It||22||25m|
The Status Quo
An impressive direct line. Unfortunately vegetation has been winning the battle in recent decades as Buffalo's popularity has waned. Cleaning has resumed in January 2011 - get in quick before the mank comes back. Previously written up as being 117m, this is not possible as the cliff here is no more than 90m high and this route is very direct. The pitch lengths have been condensed to make the total length a bit more realistic.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Goeff Gledhill, Chris Baxter (var) (M4), 1970
|5||Hard Rain||22 M1||2120m|
|6||Hard Rain Variant||21||40m|
|7||The Status Quo Alternative Finish||15||30m|
|10||The Establishment Dyke Finish||23||120m|
|11||The Establishment Direct Start||16||25m|
|12||The Establishment Composite Variant||19 M1||266m|
|17||Pig's Knickers||14 M2||2120m|
|18||Pig's Knickers Variant||14 M2||295m|
|20||Coming Up For Air||20||30m|
|21||Gnarly Clips And Nothing Grips||24||12m|
Unknown, Trad and Aid
Long/Lat: 146.820994, -36.720707
Two FH and a BR. Some other trad placements available too.
|7||Agrippa Direct Finish||24||10m|
Unknown, Trad and Sport
Long/Lat: 146.820602, -36.720661
Run the Gauntlet
FA: Malcolm Matheson Kevin Lindorff
|7||Dressed to Kill||24||47m|
Unknown and Aid
Long/Lat: 146.821003, -36.720535
|2||Winnie The Pooh||19||88m|
|3||Pooh Corner||19 M4||2130m|
|4||Exhibit A||25 M0||2|
Long/Lat: 146.818838, -36.720334
First grade 24 in Australia.
FFA: Nic Taylor,Peter Watson, 1976
Route goes totally free at 18/19. Easy laybacking to some tricky moves through the roof. Great climbing.
FFA: @tshaw,scott crameri, 2016
2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.
|6||Jumping Jack Flash||20 M2||240m|
|8||Wicked Solitaire Variant||17||15m|
Wicked Solitaire Variant 2
Variant start to Wicked Solitaire. Climb the arete past 3 bolts.
The Short Reache
Wide crack/chimney R of WS. Rap in towards waterfall from WS rap point.
Up chimney, move Across into corner then up crack to belay on ledge. Scramble up L to top.
FA: Glenn Tempest,Eddie Ozols, 1976
Misguided Madams Mechanics Misgivings
Rap in from tree a few metres to the right of LGL to belay off medium cams or just sit in tree.
Up not too steep hand / fist crack back to the top. No much of a warmup for LGL but might get some blood going and test your tape job if using it ....
FA: FTRSA @macciza, 25th Jan
FFA: @macciza, 26th Jan
|14 to 16||10m|
Lift Girls Lament
Rap in from tree at top to belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.
Up the crack varying from fingers to thin hands to hands. Some may be rattle depending on your hand size, and will alter where the crux is accordingly.
Doubles of small/medium cams or medium to large wires if that way inclined. Hexes or TriCams would be fun and make it a bit more challenging for your second - if your that way inclined ...
FA: Ian Anger,Mal Grey, 1981
Bell Boys Bereavement
Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL.
FFA: Stuart Wyithe,Malcolm Matheson, 2000
Unknown and Trad
Long/Lat: 146.818240, -36.720011
Route goes free including the roof at around grade 21. Take lots of cams including some big stuff. It is clean in all the right areas and has some great climbing.
Prominent corner/roof/corner opposite Pulpit Rock. Rap in to good ledge.
FA: Dewhirst,Baxter, 1970
FFA: scott crameri,@tshaw, 24th Mar
|2||The Mormon Sanction||24||85m|
|3||Salt Lake City||25||170m|
|5||Fantasies Of Gail||15||35m|
|9||Pussy on the Prowl||20 X||35m|