Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Car Park Boulders | |||||
16 | Wee Willie Winkie
| 6m | |||
12 | Winkie Wanky Woo
| 8m | |||
12 | Now We Are Six
| 8m | |||
16 | When We Were Very Young
| 8m | |||
Glass Gully | |||||
15 | Bantam
| 15m | |||
17 | Cataract
| 15m | |||
20 | Wake In Fright
| 25m | |||
17 | Sleep In Peace
| 30m | |||
22 | Persona Non Grata
| 25m | |||
21 | ★ Dream
| 60m | |||
25 | Rappiles Rules
| 44m | |||
20 | High Voltage
| 45m | |||
18 | Energy Crisis
| 15m | |||
19 | Short Circuit
| 30m | |||
22 | Wichita
| 60m | |||
22 | On Line
| 40m | |||
21 | Slip And Slide
| 40m | |||
22 | ★ Bold Hussie
| 25m | |||
22 | Crack Of Fat
| 30m | |||
25 | Pathway to Mass Consumption
FA: 2005 | 15m | |||
Summit Rim | |||||
23 | Cyborg
| 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Body Heat
From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings. Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Ian Anger, 1994 | 20m, 6 | |||
27 | ★ Sweet Nothings
The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2005 | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | Finger Fantasy
| 10m | |||
23 | ★ Silver Shadow
Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James. FA: Bob Cowan, 2000 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★★ Home James
Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires. To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts. Set: James McIntosh FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1994 | 30m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Back in an Hour
Starts a couple of metres left of 'And don't spare the horses' (apparently the numbers given to these two routes in the text in the '06 guidebook should have been reversed). Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay at the base of Home James. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Murray, 2005 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ And don't spare the horses
Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Murray, 2005 | 15m, 6 | |||
20 | Horizontal Kung Fu
| 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch
Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay FA: Kevin Lindorff & Will Monks, 2005 | 45m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Vertical Tai Chi
Classic hard slab climbing. To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2005 | 76m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Banana Milkshakes Rule
A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase. | 30m | |||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé
Rap down the route (fixed hangers 10m right facing out of the hang-gliding ramp.) Layback your way up the stylish flake, step right to crack and delicately up. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Giles Bradbury, Geoff Gledhill & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 30m | |||
26 | Surfing the Gravity Wave
From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2003 | 30m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Black Road
The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding FA: Ian Lewis, 1974 FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 45m | |||
18 | ★ Cabaret
| 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Ring a Ding Ding | 25m | |||
21 - 23 | Unknown
2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD. | 18m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight
Approximately 20 metres before the hang glider lookout on the cliff edge there is a large car-sized boulder with a triangular gully next to it. Rap in down the gully to a large platform. On the left of the platform (looking out) there is steepish ramp with 3 cracks in it. The right 2 cracks are Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight. Mostly good protection, run-out at top. FA: Mike Law & Nic Taylor, 1976 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Smear Tactics
The arete R of TWSPD. The unprotected start means this is more often top-roped than led. Head right to arete then up dyke and onto left wall. Up past BR to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Parsons, 1980 | 15m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Turkey Chute
Rap off at far right side of echo point lookout. Climb is a ramp going from right to left (looking out) and the brown streak at the top is approximately middle of the climb. Rap in to ledge follow obvious diagonal line. No pro, good holds | 10m | |||
Chaos Gully | |||||
24 | Loose Lips Sink Ships
| 25m | |||
23 | Show And Tell
The top half of this route was destroyed by the Sep 2021 Earthquake, See route 'shake and quake" for the new re-established route. | 30m | |||
17 | ★ Shake and Quake
Chaos Gully really living up to it's name had a large rock-fall, triggered by the earthquake in Sep 2021. The offending rock was the top half of 'Show and Tell' The absence of this large boulder, revealed an appealing open book corner. Start up left side of prominent slab at bottom left end of dyke line (as for Show and Tell). Easy finger crack up to slab, climb past FH on right wall, where delicate slab/corner moves lead to a large ledge. Stem/hand jam Open book corner to glory. Set: Earthquake Sep 2021 FA: Paul Mackrell & Brad Graham, 2 Feb 2023 | 28m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Lumberjack
| 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Get Knotted
| 25m | |||
20 | To Be Or Knot To Be
| 40m | |||
16 | A Cluttered Room
| 10m | |||
23 | ★★★ Pretty Girls With Long Knives
| 130m | |||
22 | Stick-jumping Hippy Logic
| 95m | |||
Mushroom Rock | |||||
16 | Teflon Tortoise
| 25m | |||
13 M1 | The Southwest Face Of The Grand Champignon
| 6m, 2 | |||
18 | The Candidate
| 14m | |||
22 | Silicon Fish
| 40m | |||
17 | ★ Human Edge
| 15m | |||
Mushroom Rock Bower Bird Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ The lost bower
Start up BB, at ledge climb crack through roof-let with some difficulties, then continue wrestling your way to finally join BB at the belay. FA: jack jane & Luke Molineux, 2 Sep 2023 | 25m | |||
20 | Bower Bird
P.1. Start up easy chimney with loose blocks at top, travers L passing a bolt before stopping at the vertical crack (semi hanging belay).P.2. up crack (seeps after rain) to finger crack in corner and R curving crack to finish. Alternatively start up Abracadabra, then move R and finish up P.2 of BB. this allows you to do the route in 1 pitch. | 45m, 2, 1 | |||
24 | Abracadabra
Start down and L of BB. Start below new ring bolt in crack. past RB to horizontal, then climb crack to top. FA: 1996 | 30m, 1 | |||
Bowers Always Crumble in the End (closed project)
Pull onto ledge however you feel to the black often seeping corner. From here move L into century box with some difficulty. Up to undercling, punch out L and up face passing 3 fixed hangers to DBB. | 25m, 3 | ||||
Other Side of the Bower
Hidden from view around the arete at the end of the ledge. Climb onto the slab, up chimney and onto ledge (probably best done with a rope). From here you will see the steep finger to hand crack. finish at DBB as for BACINT. FA: jack jane & Luke Molineux, 10 Feb | 20m | ||||
22 | Upwardly Mobile
| 12m | |||
Mushroom Rock | |||||
23 | ★★ Lethal Weapon
Continue downhill from Mushroom Rock for perhaps another 70m to the end of a rocky promontory (not far from where the rough climbers' track - used to get down to Isotope Wall, Angel's buttress or the North Wall of the gorge - swings hard left, looking out, and into and through a narrow rock cleft). Abseil 35m over the route, angling slightly leftward/east to belay in the steep gully off the east side of the buttress. Engaging climbing up past 2 carrot bolts and around right onto the front of the buttress and a fixed hanger. Then slab up tending rightward past four more carrot bolts, a fixed hanger, then the arete past a final carrot bolt to belay. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Wayne Webb, 1995 | 35m, 8 | |||
23 M1 | ★ Leathal Weapon II
| 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Speed
| 50m | |||
23 | Maverick
| 30m | |||
19 | ★ Turtles All the Way Down
| 30m | |||
Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||
21 | Smart Move
| 25m | |||
15 | Silverfish
| 50m | |||
19 | Dispossession
| 60m | |||
14 | The Crystal Edge
| 140m | |||
18 | ★★ Vortex
| 92m | |||
21 | ★★ Vortex - Vertical Tai Chi connection
An exciting linkup from the top of Vortex's main dyke into Vertical Tai Chi's 2nd pitch. Belay in the corner at the top of Vortex's main difficulties. Around arete to delicately traverse (wire up in a high crack) across and up to a FH on VTC and finish as for that route. FA: Goshen Watts & Andrew Clark, 2014 | 40m | |||
16 | Pythagorus' Perpendicular Pyramid
| 77m | |||
21 | Surface Tension
| 45m | |||
23 | Pooky
| 25m | |||
22 | Suffragette City
| 60m | |||
24 | Malicious Gossip
| 40m | |||
15 | ★ Devilled Cream
Not the sort of route to take your non-climbing boyfriend/girlfriend up. Takes the prominent crack splitting the buttress. Follow this (trench belay possible), then walk left and up short chimney, then wander up. | 64m | |||
18 | ★★ Devilled Cream Direct
Follow Devilled Cream past the trench belay and up the chimney. Instead of easily rambling off left, head up the short crack, to step right onto slab at BR, then up via another two BRs. | 3 | |||
25 | The Devil Rides Out
| 72m | |||
21 | ★★★ Commander Cody
Up the right trending crack with wide “pod” partway up to bolted anchors under roof | 30m | |||
19 | Lost Planet
| 25m | |||
15 | Liverwurst
| 40m | |||
11 | Sitting Bull
| 30m | |||
12 | King Hit
| 82m | |||
Split Pinnacle Area | |||||
21 | Spilt Pinnacle Direct
| 67m | |||
13 | The End Of The World
| 300m | |||
15 | Formica
| 64m | |||
30 | ★★ The Great Shark Hunt
FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1994 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ The White Feather
| 100m | |||
Isotope Wall | |||||
18 | Wild Blue Yonder
Access best by using a 100m static to abseil the approx 85m (?) from the top of Home James, down that route, continuing down past 'Back in an Hour' and through the hole/'cave' formed by chock-stones which brings you out onto a large grassy ramp/ledge. Stay on the abseil rope for the short scramble down rightward (facing in) to a bolt anchor above Wild Blue Yonder. Another short (30m?) abseil from bolts gets you to the start of that climb (at the ledge above Goat's Head Soup). The original route (17, scarier with just a single carrot bolt) started about 10m left of Goat Island - one or two moves from the left end of the ledge accessed the big diagonal ramp/line. This better version (18, more direct and well protected) starts about 6 or 7 m right of the original.
FA: Kevin Lindorff (as described) & Geoff Gledhill December 2020 FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Roseberry January '77 (original route) | 110m, 3, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Goat Island
Bolts replaced 2021. | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Goat Island Variant
| 40m | |||
19 | Goat's Head Soup
| 50m | |||
19 | ★ Quickstep
| 53m | |||
22 | ★★ High Time
| 92m | |||
20 | ★★ Diamond Dogs
A new bolt with rap ring (added in 2023) now augments the single old carrot and dubious peg that formed the belay at the end of p2. | 65m | |||
21 | ★★ Diamond Dogs Direct Start
A fixed hanger added (2023) between the first two of the three original carrots makes this very enjoyable. | 20m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Manhattan Project
Looks good.
FA: Ian Anger & Steve Monks, 1993 | 80m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ Oppenheimer's Monster
A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Ian Anger, 1994 | 45m |