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Description

The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Paul Martin & Rick Webb

The climbers track to the base of the Horn passes over a grassy snowgum rise. From this rise look toward the Horn in front of you is a short dimpley slab with 2 vertical cracks about 1m apart. Up either crack and walk off top and to the L for easy down return

FA: N Coward & P Watling

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

Either access via Extra Fun or walk 5m R of Extra Fun up to bushy area scramble L up over 2 levels of granite boulders, to arrive at main large slab wall. Cam in horizontal crack at start then past 2 BR and step R across chasm below chockstone. Up shallow arete past 3 BR and step left onto proper arete to complete past 2 BR. Need large nuts/ smaller cams to establish belay in crack behind top block. Can continue up Pintle, Peroxide, or Hoi Poli, or rap chain back down off 'pig snout' 4m L of Hoi Poli

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

Long dreadful straight flaring crack that starts R of songlines and finishes L of Hoi Poloi

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

Between Mood for a day Crack and Buttocks Crack is an overlap. Start below L side of overlap up past 1 BR and diagonally R up overlap to finish below Hoi Poloi arete

Best started at snowgum level up most obvious straight line over boulders to rounded crack on main wall that looks like a bum crack. At top of crack traverse L to finish at belay bottom of Hoi Poloi arete.

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

One of 3 routes that finishes at the summit therefore can rap in off cams at the top of the route. Do not rap from the tourist handrail. Alternatively, access bottom via Buttocks' or 'Change of Heart'. Obvious well worn arete ends as tourist steps take a R turn 6m before summit. A typical Horn slabby arete with bolts. First pitch of 'Buttocks' makes a pleasant start.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Matidla Bardella, 1985

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.

  1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang.

  2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack.

  3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.

FA:

FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody & Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gabrielle Pellisser & R Hitchins, 1978

Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arête around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Crack eventually fuses shut in the upper half, making the climbing slabby, with fiddly protection. (Micro nuts and micro cams.) Easy finish once final flake is gained. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Start halfway up the easy ramp of the original second pitch of 'The Pintle'. Best approached by abseil. Up past 2 flakes and 2 bolts and some small gear, tending right at the top.

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust & Jeremy Boreham, 1992

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

FA: Tim Wallis, 2011

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left way to bridge if needed. Level off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

Start L diagnal crack 10m R of Crowlands. Crack zigzags 1m and finshes L through gap finish behind Crowlands and rap chain

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

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