The Horn Rock climbing48 routes in crag
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The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.
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Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top
Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.
Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.
Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb
Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.
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