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Description

The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Lovely Legs Unknown 10m

FA: Paul Martin, Rick Webb

2
15 The Mouses Tail Trad 15m
3
15 Horn Again Unknown 40m
4
13 Guantanamero Trad 15m
5

The climbers track to the base of the Horn passes over a grassy snowgum rise. From this rise look toward the Horn in front of you is a short dimpley slab with 2 vertical cracks about 1m apart. Up either crack and walk off top and to the L for easy down return

6
14 Pilsener Unknown 14m

FA: N Coward, P Watling

7
20 Yuk Unknown 12m
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23 Artful Doger Unknown 14m
9
28 Short Sharp Shocked Unknown 9m
10
23 ** Miss Otis Regrets Unknown 12m
11
21 I Hear You Knocking Unknown 15m
13
20 * Waiting For Bangla Unknown 15m
14
20 *** Peroxide Blonde Sport 18m, 5

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

15
11 Extra Fun Mixed 20m, 2

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

16
15 ** Big Fun Sport 25m, 7

Either access via Extra Fun or walk 5m R of Extra Fun up to bushy area scramble L up over 2 levels of granite boulders, to arrive at main large slab wall. Cam in horizontal crack at start then past 2 BR and step R across chasm below chockstone. Up shallow arete past 3 BR and step left onto proper arete to complete past 2 BR. Need large nuts/ smaller cams to establish belay in crack behind top block. Can continue up Pintle, Peroxide, or Hoi Poli, or rap chain back down off 'pig snout' 4m L of Hoi Poli

17
22 ** They Dance Alone Mixed 20m, 6

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.

18
16 Nathanial Unknown 20m

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

19
21 * The Songlines Sport 18m, 3

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

20

Long dreadful straight flaring crack that starts R of songlines and finishes L of Hoi Poloi

21
22 A Change Of Heart Sport 15m, 5

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

22
20 Rent-A-Crowd Mixed 15m, 1

Between Mood for a day Crack and Buttocks Crack is an overlap. Start below L side of overlap up past 1 BR and diagonally R up overlap to finish below Hoi Poloi arete

23
10 Buttocks Mixed 35m, 2

Best started at snowgum level up most obvious straight line over boulders to rounded crack on main wall that looks like a bum crack. At top of crack traverse L to finish at belay bottom of Hoi Poloi arete.

24
7 Pigs Ear Trad 15m

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

25
16 * Hoi Polloi Mixed 18m, 4

One of 3 routes that finishes at the summit therefore can rap in off cams at the top of the route. Do not rap from the tourist handrail. Alternatively, access bottom via Buttocks' or 'Change of Heart'. Obvious well worn arete ends as tourist steps take a R turn 6m before summit. A typical Horn slabby arete with bolts. First pitch of 'Buttocks' makes a pleasant start.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Matidla Bardella, 1985

26
23 * Glitterati Unknown 20m
27
14 The Pintle Trad 70m

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.

  1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang.

  2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack.

  3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.

FA:

FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody, Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973

28
4 Hump Back Whale Mixed 10m, 2

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

29

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gabrielle Pellisser, R Hitchins, 2000

30

Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arete around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Last secure trad placement about half way, #4 nut under left crack. Very run out top half with 1 BR top R of flake before arete flattens to top. Medium nuts and thread in back wall at top for belay. Ring bolt to rap down R to final pitch, or L and trought very tight squeeze

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins, Kieran Loughran, 1982

31
18 Address To A Haggis Unknown 25m, 2

Start halfway up the easy ramp of the original second pitch of 'The Pintle'. Best approached by abseil. Up past 2 flakes and 2 bolts and some small gear, tending right at the top.

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham, 1992

32
9 Easter Island Sport 8m, 3

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

33
21 * Yeah Boys Top rope 25m

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

FA: Tim Wallis, 2011

34
8 Giggle and Hoot Mixed 15m, 3

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left way to bridge if needed. Level off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

35

Start L diagnal crack 10m R of Crowlands. Crack zigzags 1m and finshes L through gap finish behind Crowlands and rap chain

36
7 * Swerv'n Mervin Sport 18m, 5

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

37
18 * Crowlands Sport 25m, 6

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

38
13 Dick Selector Trad 25m

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.

39
17 ** Profanities Sport 45m, 9

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

40
16 Parrot On A Stick Sport 12m

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

41
15 Arrakis Unknown 19m
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18 Possam Unknown 30m
43
23 Heart Starter Unknown 40m
44
20 Back Seat Driver Unknown 12m
46
18 Fiendish Glee Unknown 20m
47
17 Angels of the Abyss Unknown 18m
48
20 Stone the Crows Unknown 20m

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