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Table of contents

1. The Horn 48 routes in Crag

Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.767969, -36.776055


The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lovely Legs

FA: Paul Martin, Rick Webb

15 Unknown 10m 2
2 The Mouses Tail 15 Trad 15m
3 Horn Again 15 Unknown 40m
4 Guantanamero 13 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 German Beer Drinking Favourites

The climbers track to the base of the Horn passes over a grassy snowgum rise. From this rise look toward the Horn in front of you is a short dimpley slab with 2 vertical cracks about 1m apart. Up either crack and walk off top and to the L for easy down return

13 Trad 12m
6 Pilsener

FA: N Coward, P Watling

14 Trad 14m
7 Yuk 20 Unknown 12m
8 Artful Doger 23 Unknown 14m
9 Short Sharp Shocked 28 Unknown 9m
10 ** Miss Otis Regrets 23 Unknown 12m
11 I Hear You Knocking 21 Unknown 15m
12 Things That Go Bump In The Night 23 Unknown 15m
13 * Waiting For Bangla 20 Unknown 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 *** Peroxide Blonde

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

20 Sport 18m, 5
15 Extra Fun

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

11 Mixed 20m 2, 2
16 ** Big Fun

Either access via Extra Fun or walk 5m R of Extra Fun up to bushy area scramble L up over 2 levels of granite boulders, to arrive at main large slab wall. Cam in horizontal crack at start then past 2 BR and step R across chasm below chockstone. Up shallow arete past 3 BR and step left onto proper arete to complete past 2 BR. Need large nuts/ smaller cams to establish belay in crack behind top block. Can continue up Pintle, Peroxide, or Hoi Poli, or rap chain back down off 'pig snout' 4m L of Hoi Poli

15 Sport 25m, 7
17 ** They Dance Alone

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.

22 Mixed 20m, 6
18 Nathanial

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

16 Unknown 20m
19 * The Songlines

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

21 Sport 18m, 3
20 Mood For A Day / bad mood day

Long dreadful straight flaring crack that starts R of songlines and finishes L of Hoi Poloi

10 Trad 65m 2
21 A Change Of Heart

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

22 Sport 15m, 5
22 Rent-A-Crowd

Between Mood for a day Crack and Buttocks Crack is an overlap. Start below L side of overlap up past 1 BR and diagonally R up overlap to finish below Hoi Poloi arete

20 Mixed 15m, 1
23 Buttocks

Best started at snowgum level up most obvious straight line over boulders to rounded crack on main wall that looks like a bum crack. At top of crack traverse L to finish at belay bottom of Hoi Poloi arete.

10 Mixed 35m, 2
24 Pigs Ear

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

7 Trad 15m
25 * Hoi Polloi

One of 3 routes that finishes at the summit therefore can rap in off cams at the top of the route. Do not rap from the tourist handrail. Alternatively, access bottom via Buttocks' or 'Change of Heart'. Obvious well worn arete ends as tourist steps take a R turn 6m before summit. A typical Horn slabby arete with bolts. First pitch of 'Buttocks' makes a pleasant start.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Matidla Bardella, 1985

16 Mixed 18m, 4
26 * Glitterati 23 Unknown 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 The Pintle

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.

  1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang.

  2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack.

  3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.


FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody, Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973

14 Trad 70m 3
28 Hump Back Whale

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

4 Mixed 10m, 2
29 The Pintle Variant Start

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

FA: Kieran Loughran,Gabrielle Pellisser,R Hitchins, 1978

12 Trad 20m
30 *** The Pintle Left Hand Variant

Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arête around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Crack eventually fuses shut in the upper half, making the climbing slabby, with fiddly protection. (Micro nuts and micro cams.) Easy finish once final flake is gained. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins, Kieran Loughran, 1982

16 Trad 24m
31 Address To A Haggis

Start halfway up the easy ramp of the original second pitch of 'The Pintle'. Best approached by abseil. Up past 2 flakes and 2 bolts and some small gear, tending right at the top.

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham, 1992

18 Unknown 25m, 2
32 Easter Island

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

9 Sport 8m, 3
33 * Yeah Boys

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

FA: Tim Wallis, 2011

21 Top rope 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 Giggle and Hoot

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left way to bridge if needed. Level off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

8 Mixed 15m, 3
35 Selwyn's Slag Heap

Start L diagnal crack 10m R of Crowlands. Crack zigzags 1m and finshes L through gap finish behind Crowlands and rap chain

6 Trad 10m
36 Swerv'n Mervin

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

7 Sport 18m, 5
37 * Crowlands

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

18 Sport 25m, 6
38 Dick Selector

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.

13 Trad 25m
39 ** Profanities

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

17 Sport 45m 2, 9
40 Parrot On A Stick

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

16 Sport 12m
41 Arrakis 15 Unknown 19m
42 Possam 18 Unknown 30m
43 Heart Starter 23 Unknown 40m
44 Back Seat Driver 20 Unknown 12m
45 Back Seat Driver Variant Finish 17 Unknown 12m
46 Fiendish Glee 18 Unknown 20m
47 Angels of the Abyss 17 Unknown 18m
48 Stone the Crows 20 Unknown 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Hump Back Whale Mixed 10m, 2
6 Selwyn's Slag Heap Trad 10m
7 Pigs Ear Trad 15m
Swerv'n Mervin Sport 18m, 5
8 Giggle and Hoot Mixed 15m, 3
9 Easter Island Sport 8m, 3
10 Buttocks Mixed 35m, 2
Mood For A Day Trad 65m 2
11 Extra Fun Mixed 20m 2, 2
12 The Pintle Variant Start Trad 20m
13 Dick Selector Trad 25m
German Beer Drinking Favourites Trad 12m
Guantanamero Trad 15m
14 Pilsener Trad 14m
The Pintle Trad 70m 3
15 Arrakis Unknown 19m
** Big Fun Sport 25m, 7
Horn Again Unknown 40m
Lovely Legs Unknown 10m 2
The Mouses Tail Trad 15m
16 * Hoi Polloi Mixed 18m, 4
Nathanial Unknown 20m
Parrot On A Stick Sport 12m
*** The Pintle Left Hand Variant Trad 24m
17 Angels of the Abyss Unknown 18m
Back Seat Driver Variant Finish Unknown 12m
** Profanities Sport 45m 2, 9
18 Address To A Haggis Unknown 25m, 2
* Crowlands Sport 25m, 6
Fiendish Glee Unknown 20m
Possam Unknown 30m
20 Back Seat Driver Unknown 12m
*** Peroxide Blonde Sport 18m, 5
Rent-A-Crowd Mixed 15m, 1
Stone the Crows Unknown 20m
* Waiting For Bangla Unknown 15m
Yuk Unknown 12m
21 I Hear You Knocking Unknown 15m
* The Songlines Sport 18m, 3
* Yeah Boys Top rope 25m
22 A Change Of Heart Sport 15m, 5
** They Dance Alone Mixed 20m, 6
23 Artful Doger Unknown 14m
* Glitterati Unknown 20m
Heart Starter Unknown 40m
** Miss Otis Regrets Unknown 12m
Things That Go Bump In The Night Unknown 15m
28 Short Sharp Shocked Unknown 9m