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Table of contents

1. The Horn 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.767969, -36.776055

Description:

The Horn is the highest granite peak on the Buffalo Plataeu at 1723m. Either access climbs by reaching summit via tourist path then rapping down highest climb peroxide blonde. Alternatively about half way up path at hairpin bend head straight ahead via climbers track to reach base of Horn.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lovely Legs

FA: Paul Martin, Rick Webb

15Unknown 10m
2 The Mouses Tail 15Trad 15m
3 Horn Again 15Unknown 40m
4 Guantanamero 13Trad 15m
5 German Beer Drinking Favourites

The climbers track to the base of the Horn passes over a grassy snowgum rise. From this rise look toward the Horn in front of you is a short dimpley slab with 2 vertical cracks about 1m apart. Up either crack and walk off top and to the L for easy down return

13Trad 12m
6 Pilsener

FA: N Coward, P Watling

14Unknown 14m
7 Yuk 20Unknown 12m
8 Artful Doger 23Unknown 14m
9 Short Sharp Shocked 28Unknown 9m
10 ** Miss Otis Regrets 23Unknown 12m
11 I Hear You Knocking 21Unknown 15m
12 Things That Go Bump In The Night 23Unknown 15m
13 * Waiting For Bangla 20Unknown 15m
14 *** Peroxide Blonde

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

20Sport 18m, 5
15 Extra Fun

Start at small cave 5m R of Pintle start. Up slab using R crack and bridging on opposing R wall. Make way past 2 BR onto some small ledges and continue 10m with some trad placements. Either belay base of Big Fun or continue on 2nd pitch Big Fun

11Mixed 20m, 2
16 ** Big Fun

Either access via Extra Fun or walk 5m R of Extra Fun up to bushy area scramble L up over 2 levels of granite boulders, to arrive at main large slab wall. Cam in horizontal crack at start then past 2 BR and step R across chasm below chockstone. Up shallow arete past 3 BR and step left onto proper arete to complete past 2 BR. Need large nuts/ smaller cams to establish belay in crack behind top block. Can continue up Pintle, Peroxide, or Hoi Poli, or rap chain back down off 'pig snout' 4m L of Hoi Poli

15Sport 25m, 7
17 ** They Dance Alone

The long face between the shallow arete of big Fun and flared crack of Nathaniel. 6 bolts plus natural gear.

22Mixed 20m, 6
18 Nathanial

Straight long flared crack R of Big Fun

16Unknown 20m
19 * The Songlines

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

21Sport 18m, 3
20 Mood For A Day / bad mood day

Long dreadful straight flaring crack that starts R of songlines and finishes L of Hoi Poloi

10Trad 65m
21 A Change Of Heart

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

22Sport 15m, 5
22 Rent-A-Crowd

Between Mood for a day Crack and Buttocks Crack is an overlap. Start below L side of overlap up past 1 BR and diagonally R up overlap to finish below Hoi Poloi arete

20Mixed 15m, 1
23 Buttocks

Best started at snowgum level up most obvious straight line over boulders to rounded crack on main wall that looks like a bum crack. At top of crack traverse L to finish at belay bottom of Hoi Poloi arete.

10Mixed 35m, 2
24 Pigs Ear

Starts 5m L of final pitch of Mood for a Day. Bridge between slabby wall and block that looks like a pigs head. Pull up onto ear then step across into corner crack halfway up Pintle exit pitch. Continue as for Pintle to summit. Is the easy way off if caught in rain

7Trad 15m
25 * Hoi Polloi

One of 3 routes that finishes at the summit therefore can rap in off cams at the top of the route. Do not rap from the tourist handrail. Alternatively, access bottom via Buttocks' or 'Change of Heart'. Obvious well worn arete ends as tourist steps take a R turn 6m before summit. A typical Horn slabby arete with bolts. First pitch of 'Buttocks' makes a pleasant start.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Matidla Bardella, 1985

16Mixed 18m, 4
26 * Glitterati 23Unknown 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 The Pintle

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base.

  1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang.

  2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack.

  3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.

FA:

FFA: John Taylor, Mike Carmody, Glenn Casey - Summer, 1973

14Trad 70m
28 Hump Back Whale

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

4Mixed 10m, 2
29 The Pintle Variant Start

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Gabrielle Pellisser, R Hitchins, 2000

12Trad 20m
30 *** The Pintle Left Hand Variant

Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arete around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Last secure trad placement about half way, #4 nut under left crack. Very run out top half with 1 BR top R of flake before arete flattens to top. Medium nuts and thread in back wall at top for belay. Ring bolt to rap down R to final pitch, or L and trought very tight squeeze

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins, Kieran Loughran, 1982

16Trad 24m
31 Address To A Haggis

Start halfway up the easy ramp of the original second pitch of 'The Pintle'. Best approached by abseil. Up past 2 flakes and 2 bolts and some small gear, tending right at the top.

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham, 1992

18Unknown 25m, 2
32 Easter Island

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

9Sport 8m, 3
33 * Yeah Boys

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

FA: Tim Wallis, 2011

21Top rope 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 Giggle and Hoot

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left way to bridge if needed. Level off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

8Mixed 15m, 3
35 Selwyn's Slag Heap

Start L diagnal crack 10m R of Crowlands. Crack zigzags 1m and finshes L through gap finish behind Crowlands and rap chain

6Trad 10m
36 * Swerv'n Mervin

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

7Sport 18m, 5
37 * Crowlands

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

18Sport 25m, 6
38 Dick Selector

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.

13Trad 25m
39 ** Profanities

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

17Sport 45m, 9
40 Parrot On A Stick

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

16Sport 12m
41 Arrakis 15Unknown 19m
42 Possam 18Unknown 30m
43 Heart Starter 23Unknown 40m
44 Back Seat Driver 20Unknown 12m
45 Back Seat Driver Variant Finish 17Unknown 12m
46 Fiendish Glee 18Unknown 20m
47 Angels of the Abyss 17Unknown 18m
48 Stone the Crows 20Unknown 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Hump Back Whale Mixed 10m, 2
6 Selwyn's Slag Heap Trad 10m
7 Pigs Ear Trad 15m
* Swerv'n Mervin Sport 18m, 5
8 Giggle and Hoot Mixed 15m, 3
9 Easter Island Sport 8m, 3
10 Buttocks Mixed 35m, 2
Mood For A Day Trad 65m
11 Extra Fun Mixed 20m, 2
12 The Pintle Variant Start Trad 20m
13 Dick Selector Trad 25m
German Beer Drinking Favourites Trad 12m
Guantanamero Trad 15m
14 Pilsener Unknown 14m
The Pintle Trad 70m
15 Arrakis Unknown 19m
** Big Fun Sport 25m, 7
Horn Again Unknown 40m
Lovely Legs Unknown 10m
The Mouses Tail Trad 15m
16 * Hoi Polloi Mixed 18m, 4
Nathanial Unknown 20m
Parrot On A Stick Sport 12m
*** The Pintle Left Hand Variant Trad 24m
17 Angels of the Abyss Unknown 18m
Back Seat Driver Variant Finish Unknown 12m
** Profanities Sport 45m, 9
18 Address To A Haggis Unknown 25m, 2
* Crowlands Sport 25m, 6
Fiendish Glee Unknown 20m
Possam Unknown 30m
20 Back Seat Driver Unknown 12m
*** Peroxide Blonde Sport 18m, 5
Rent-A-Crowd Mixed 15m, 1
Stone the Crows Unknown 20m
* Waiting For Bangla Unknown 15m
Yuk Unknown 12m
21 I Hear You Knocking Unknown 15m
* The Songlines Sport 18m, 3
* Yeah Boys Top rope 25m
22 A Change Of Heart Sport 15m, 5
** They Dance Alone Mixed 20m, 6
23 Artful Doger Unknown 14m
* Glitterati Unknown 20m
Heart Starter Unknown 40m
** Miss Otis Regrets Unknown 12m
Things That Go Bump In The Night Unknown 15m
28 Short Sharp Shocked Unknown 9m