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Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arête around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Crack eventually fuses shut in the upper half, making the climbing slabby, with fiddly protection. (Micro nuts and micro cams.) Easy finish once final flake is gained. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, Dec 1982


Located in The Horn approx:
Lat/Long: -36.776055,146.767969

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 RockGUIDE: Victoria
16 Mt Buffalo
16 *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard ripper fun cool nice fantastic good brilliant amazing great exciting enjoyable awesome runout tricky committing slippery chimney awkward flake easy jugs fiddly crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on The Pintle Left Hand Variant (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.