- Height: 24m
- Ascents: 83
Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arête around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Crack eventually fuses shut in the upper half, making the climbing slabby, with fiddly protection. (Micro nuts and micro cams.) Easy finish once final flake is gained. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.
- Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo
Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.
First Ascent: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982
Located in The Horn approx:
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Route Grade Citations
|16||Community registered grade|
|16 ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 78%
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