Topo #563

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Route Grade Popularity Style
30 *** The Pintle Left Hand Variant

Start at the belay ledge top and left of Pintle start. Tough lay back crux start to get off ledge but can bridge between R crack and L arete around 3m. Medium nuts and small cams protect start but become dubious placements as climb continues. Last secure trad placement about half way, #4 nut under left crack. Very run out top half with 1 BR top R of flake before arete flattens to top. Medium nuts and thread in back wall at top for belay. Ring bolt to rap down R to final pitch, or L and trought very tight squeeze

16 Trad 24m Unlink route
27 The Pintle

Abseil in two pitches down from the lookout or walk in around the base. 1. 20m (14) From the grass, up the left crack to belay below the overhang. 2. 26m (14) Another crux. Up the left side through the wide crack. 3. 24m (14) Up the corner crack to the summit.

14 Trad 70m Unlink route
29 The Pintle Variant Start

Up the crack 1m to the right of The Pintle's more vegetated crack, crux at bulge about half way up. Great trad climb with load of placements. Belay on ledge in front of small cave. Can exit out 4m R to bottom of Big Fun or continue up Pintle LHV.

12 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #564

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Route Grade Popularity Style
39 ** Profanities

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

17 Sport 45m, 9 Unlink route
35 Selwyn's Slag Heap

Start L diagnal crack 10m R of Crowlands. Crack zigzags 1m and finshes L through gap finish behind Crowlands and rap chain

6 Trad 10m Unlink route
37 * Crowlands

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

18 Sport 25m, 6 Unlink route
38 Dick Selector

Up crack behind 4 stacked blocks that make up Crowlands. First 5m starts flared and dificult to protect but slabby. Becomes steeper and crack narrows to provide plenty of natural large pro. Near top two crack merge forcing climb out onto arete with R jamming. Rap bolt at top 25 m to ground.

13 Trad 25m Unlink route
36 Swerv'n Mervin

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

7 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
34 Giggle and Hoot

Last arete top of steep gully between Swerv'n Mervin and Yeah Boys. Up easy arete past 3 BR using left way to bridge if needed. Level off to ledge then large cam to protect final steep 4m. Trad placements for belay. Exit left down to Dick Selector rap chain.

8 Mixed 15m, 3 Unlink route

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