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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


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Grade Route

FA: Jeremy Boreham

Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

To get to the start, the guidebook update advises rapping from the Cows With Guns chains, but it's best to get a belay for the exposed scramble down the narrow buttress to the two carrot top belay, and then rap from there. Avoid the horror chimney/offwidth at all costs. Trad belay (med cams) on the awesome surfboard chockstone to start.

Traverses all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

  1. 40m Start on Initiation for 15m, move left then up past 5 carrots to double carrot belay.

  2. 35m Straight up past 4 carrots to abseil chains.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996

Starts beneath the thick flake on the right side of the main cliffline - just around the corner. Climb the flake crack for approx 50 metres, then traverse across and down past carrot bolts to the deep gully and up the obvious grade 15 handcrack visible in the opposite wall - finish up the slab. Take two or three bolt plates.

Start: You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - Refer to the Mt 'Buffalo' Guide by Kevin Lindorf and Simon Murray. The scramble in at the base of the cliff is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. But in the end the climb is worth it!

  1. 14m (18) Chimney up to, then up the flake to where you are most comfortable.

  2. 26m (12) Continue right along the crack flake and up to a small ledge - though the recommeded way to climb this pitch now is to continue on to a comfy belay at the 1st bolt (and large cams) before the traverse.

  3. 27m (15) Continue up and around the nose to a bolt then across and down past one new and two old carrot bolts to the comfy seat below the hand crack. This traverse is best done as a separate pitch - refer to the 2nd pitch alternative.

  4. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue to the top.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970

FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976


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