Showing all 47 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
17 | ★ Unknown
There is a grade 17 crack on the block 40m below 'On Remand' facing back toward the main cliff (i.e facing east). FA: unknown | ||||
20 | The Organgrinder's Monkey
Best accessed via the original (northern) descent gully. Climbs the S-shaped crack on the south-facing block about 100m down from Cross Purposes FA: Ian Anger & Greg Prichard, 1989 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Sans
Start from a ledge about 2m up the left side of the narrow buttress near the bottom of the northern descent gully (directly opposite OGM), about 30m L of and below Beg, Borrow or Steal, Take some large cams.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Lisa Bassler & Dave Gairns, 1986 | 30m, 2 | |||
15 | Phrygians
| ||||
14 | ★ Edward Sleepy Head
located on a block/boulder close to where the climbers' access 'track' emerges from the scrub and onto the top of the main cliff-line. From this point of emergence, the block is immediately on the right looking out (i.e. near the top of the On Remand descent gully and just across from the top of the Beg, Borrow or Steal buttress). The route is distinguished by a curving crack that doesn't go all the way to the ground and has a small 'cave' under and immediately left of its base. Up the crack then the easy slab. add another 15m to allow for getting to and making a belay. FA: Richard Curtis & Ben Christian, 1992 | 15m | |||
17 | Dionysus
| 20m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ On Remand
Starts around left of, and approximately level with, the ledge at the end of P1 'Beg, Borrow Or Steal'. Up up the crack/flake (bring cams), then up past 3 spaced RBs. FA: Jeremy Boreham, Hilary Lloyd & Kevin Lindorff December 1996 | 30m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Five Fingered Exercise
Starts a few metres left of 'Beg, Borrow or Steal'. The top pitches of this route and the next (Beg, Borrow or Steal) are both excellent pitches for climbers who want to lead or top-rope good quality, easily accessible pitches at this sort of grade.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jan 2016 FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andy Schmutter & Lemmie Saunders, Jan 2018 | 60m, 2, 9 | |||
18 | ★ Beg, Borrow Or Steal
A two pitch sport route (but you'll need gear to build the anchor at the end of the first pitch).
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust January 1985 | 60m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Scott Joplin
| 75m, 2, 1 | |||
10 | Ragtime
| 70m | |||
23 | ★★ Bum Steer
| 60m | |||
20 | ★★ Cows with Guns
Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake. FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999 | 50m, 7 | |||
13 | Poltroon
| 62m | |||
19 | ★★ Chickens in Choppers
Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots. Traverse all the way (past BR) to the Arete. | 30m, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Run free with the buffalo
According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's. | 30m, 6 | |||
13 | Scrag
| 69m | |||
20 | ★★ Cow Well Hung
Next buttress left facing out from Chickens in choppers, climb the face past 6 BR's. | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Attempting to find Glossop
P.1 From the CC belay take the crack out R, follow this to belay in the horizontal break. P.2 Up to stance, slab up past a carrot into groove to top. It is certain that this pitch and the variant described immediately below climb the same wall from the same ledge on the same buttress as the top pitch of Advanced Dentistry. It is not so certain how they differ, though it is possible (probable?) that AtfG and its variant are a little bit left of the top pitch of AD. Alt P.2. climb the thin seam then step L into Groove to top. FA: jack jane & Pete Holmes, 1 Jan 2018 | 60m, 2, 1 | |||
20 | Advanced Dentistry
| 90m, 3, 5 | |||
13 | The Kraut
| 91m | |||
12 | Roc
Located on a boulder/pinnacle above and set back from the top of Kraut. Climbs a (west facing) crack. Abseil off. FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews, 1969 | 15m | |||
22 | Arse Transplant
From VCC 2008 update: "Improved route description from Ian Anger: "It’s a line from a Cold Chisel song: They’ll transplant his arse on his shoulders". The buttress between Kraut and Talbingo. (1) 55m (22) Head up the centre of the slab past 2 BR to RHS of the steepening. Pass bulge via 3 BR then paddle up easily till it’s possible to dive into the crack on L and belay off cams. (2) 40m (20) Dive out of crack and head straight up past BR above ledge." FA: Russel Chudleigh & Ian Anger, 1984 | 90m | |||
16 | Talbingo
| 85m | |||
22 | Sticky Chicken
| 65m, 2, 12 | |||
23 | Cobblers
| 65m, 2, 11 | |||
17 | ★ Pendulum
| 86m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Dr Worm
Lots of carrots and a fixed hanger added in the mix. Superb face climbing up the rib. | 70m | |||
17 | ★★ Dr Worm Pitch 2
great weaving slab climbing and a bold lead at the grade. | 30m, 6 | |||
15 | Blowhole
| 82m | |||
12 | Blowhole Direct Variant
| 37m | |||
23 | Chunky
The chunky featured arete R (south) of Doctor Worm's top chains, perched above Blowhole's chimney. Climb the wall past several BRs. FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999 | 15m | |||
20 | Salsa
Start as for Chunky. Up to Chunky's first BR then bridge up right to a BR on the right wall (the left edge of the Glossop Skins buttress). Lunge onto the face and climb the steep featured wall past 3 more BRs. FA: John Schwerdfeger & Kevin Lindorff, 2001 | 25m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ Liver Tonic
Climbs the upper part of the face left of They Might be Giants. Abseil to Doctor Worm's middle belay chains. Bridge up 3 m until a BR on the right can be clipped. Step carefully onto the face and head up and right past another BR onto the slab to gain the obvious knob. Continue up the brilliant steep featured face past another 7 BRs to the top. FA: Bob Cowan & Kevin Lindorff, 2001 | 35m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★ They Might Be Giants
| 90m | |||
25 | ★★★ Glossop Skins
Start 15m right of 'Glossop Skins' (and 15 down left of 'The Initiation'. | 90m | |||
24 | ★★★ Glossop Skins Direct
Starts 5m R of the original first pitch (10m down L of the Initiation) | 90m, 2, 7 | |||
20 | ★★★ Glossop Skins Pitch 3
| 30m | |||
22 | ★★ The Icing On The Cake
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996 | 75m, 2, 9 | |||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation
You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - just locate one of the rap anchors on the left hand side (facing out) of The Hump and start rapping there. Otherwise you can scramble in at the base of the cliff, but it is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. Regardless, in the end the climb is worth it! Start beneath the obvious right leaning flake feature on the right side of the main cliff line, just around the corner from the main face. Take four bolt plates or so
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970 FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976 | 90m, 3, 1 | |||
24 | ★ The Initiation Direct Finish
| 35m | |||
25 | Staple Diet
Abseil from trad gear about 8m to the right of the anchors atop 'Glossop Skins', down over the traverse of 'The Initiation', to a semi-hanging belay off two bolts in a gently-angled scoop. Easy slabbing past a couple of bolts, then up through the traverse of 'The Initiation' (BR), to gain a rightward-leaning groove (wires and small/medium cams). When this fizzles out, head up via three bolts (crux) to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff 2008 | 30m, 6 | |||
11 | Sunshine Superman
| 55m | |||
24 | Whitetails
Climbs the Redbacks wall to the left of that route; the 'hole' 2/3 the way up the wall is a landmark. Up past a few bolts. FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Redbacks
| 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Spinarete
Starts 2 or 3m right of 'Redbacks'. From the extreme right end of the ledge, make an exposed few moves up and right and follow the bolts up just left of the arete. Toward the top, angle up leftward to gain the 'Redbacks' belay. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson | 25m, 7 | |||
21 | Lean Too
| 25m |
Showing all 47 routes.