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Routes in The Hump

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Showing all 47 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Unknown

There is a grade 17 crack on the block 40m below 'On Remand' facing back toward the main cliff (i.e facing east).

FA: unknown

Trad
20 The Organgrinder's Monkey

Best accessed via the original (northern) descent gully. Climbs the S-shaped crack on the south-facing block about 100m down from Cross Purposes

FA: Ian Anger & Greg Prichard, 1989

Trad 15m
18 Sans

Start from a ledge about 2m up the left side of the narrow buttress near the bottom of the northern descent gully (directly opposite OGM), about 30m L of and below Beg, Borrow or Steal, Take some large cams.

  1. Step in from the aforementioned ledge on the L side of the the buttress, BR, and head up R to centre of buttress, BR. Up until the climbing eases, then tend L and finish up a series of thin cracks (just L of centre) to ledge. Scramble off.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Lisa Bassler & Dave Gairns, 1986

Mixed trad 30m, 2
15 Phrygians
Unknown
14 Edward Sleepy Head

located on a block/boulder close to where the climbers' access 'track' emerges from the scrub and onto the top of the main cliff-line. From this point of emergence, the block is immediately on the right looking out (i.e. near the top of the On Remand descent gully and just across from the top of the Beg, Borrow or Steal buttress). The route is distinguished by a curving crack that doesn't go all the way to the ground and has a small 'cave' under and immediately left of its base. Up the crack then the easy slab. add another 15m to allow for getting to and making a belay.

FA: Richard Curtis & Ben Christian, 1992

Trad 15m
17 Dionysus
Unknown 20m, 2
19 On Remand

Starts around left of, and approximately level with, the ledge at the end of P1 'Beg, Borrow Or Steal'. Up up the crack/flake (bring cams), then up past 3 spaced RBs.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Hilary Lloyd & Kevin Lindorff December 1996

Mixed trad 30m, 3
21 Five Fingered Exercise

Starts a few metres left of 'Beg, Borrow or Steal'. The top pitches of this route and the next (Beg, Borrow or Steal) are both excellent pitches for climbers who want to lead or top-rope good quality, easily accessible pitches at this sort of grade.

  1. 30m. (21). A tricky start. Up past 4 FHs, to reach a good ledge at about half height. Trad belay.

  2. 30m. (18). Up immediately left of the crack on the left side of the subsidiary buttress (i.e. 2 or 3 metres left of the start of the second pitch of 'Beg, Borrow or Steal'). 4 FHs then the last bolt of 'On Remand'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jan 2016

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andy Schmutter & Lemmie Saunders, Jan 2018

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 9
18 Beg, Borrow Or Steal

A two pitch sport route (but you'll need gear to build the anchor at the end of the first pitch).

  1. (18) From right hand of ledge, step across to clip FH. A total of 5 FH and 1 carrot (plus an extra carrot adjacent to a FH).

  2. (18) Up the rib past 5 BRs. Each pitch originally had only 2 BRs!

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust January 1985

Sport 60m, 2
17 Scott Joplin
Mixed trad 75m, 2, 1
10 Ragtime
Trad 70m
23 Bum Steer
Trad 60m
20 Cows with Guns

Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Mixed trad 50m, 7
13 Poltroon
Trad 62m
19 Chickens in Choppers

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

Traverse all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

Mixed trad 30m, 7
19 Run free with the buffalo

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

Mixed trad 30m, 6
13 Scrag
Trad 69m
20 Cow Well Hung

Next buttress left facing out from Chickens in choppers, climb the face past 6 BR's.

Unknown 30m
18 Attempting to find Glossop

P.1 From the CC belay take the crack out R, follow this to belay in the horizontal break. P.2 Up to stance, slab up past a carrot into groove to top.

It is certain that this pitch and the variant described immediately below climb the same wall from the same ledge on the same buttress as the top pitch of Advanced Dentistry. It is not so certain how they differ, though it is possible (probable?) that AtfG and its variant are a little bit left of the top pitch of AD.

Alt P.2. climb the thin seam then step L into Groove to top.

FA: jack jane & Pete Holmes, 1 Jan 2018

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 1
20 Advanced Dentistry
Mixed trad 90m, 3, 5
13 The Kraut
Trad 91m
12 Roc

Located on a boulder/pinnacle above and set back from the top of Kraut. Climbs a (west facing) crack. Abseil off.

FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews, 1969

Trad 15m
22 Arse Transplant

From VCC 2008 update: "Improved route description from Ian Anger: "It’s a line from a Cold Chisel song: They’ll transplant his arse on his shoulders". The buttress between Kraut and Talbingo. (1) 55m (22) Head up the centre of the slab past 2 BR to RHS of the steepening. Pass bulge via 3 BR then paddle up easily till it’s possible to dive into the crack on L and belay off cams. (2) 40m (20) Dive out of crack and head straight up past BR above ledge."

FA: Russel Chudleigh & Ian Anger, 1984

Unknown 90m
16 Talbingo
Trad 85m
22 Sticky Chicken
Unknown 65m, 2, 12
23 Cobblers
Unknown 65m, 2, 11
17 Pendulum
Trad 86m, 3
23 Dr Worm

Lots of carrots and a fixed hanger added in the mix.

Superb face climbing up the rib.

Sport 70m
17 Dr Worm Pitch 2

great weaving slab climbing and a bold lead at the grade.

Sport 30m, 6
15 Blowhole
Trad 82m
12 Blowhole Direct Variant
Trad 37m
23 Chunky

The chunky featured arete R (south) of Doctor Worm's top chains, perched above Blowhole's chimney. Climb the wall past several BRs.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Sport 15m
20 Salsa

Start as for Chunky. Up to Chunky's first BR then bridge up right to a BR on the right wall (the left edge of the Glossop Skins buttress). Lunge onto the face and climb the steep featured wall past 3 more BRs.

FA: John Schwerdfeger & Kevin Lindorff, 2001

Sport 25m, 5
25 Liver Tonic

Climbs the upper part of the face left of They Might be Giants. Abseil to Doctor Worm's middle belay chains. Bridge up 3 m until a BR on the right can be clipped. Step carefully onto the face and head up and right past another BR onto the slab to gain the obvious knob. Continue up the brilliant steep featured face past another 7 BRs to the top.

FA: Bob Cowan & Kevin Lindorff, 2001

Sport 35m, 9
24 They Might Be Giants
Unknown 90m
25 Glossop Skins

Start 15m right of 'Glossop Skins' (and 15 down left of 'The Initiation'.

Unknown 90m
24 Glossop Skins Direct

Starts 5m R of the original first pitch (10m down L of the Initiation)

Unknown 90m, 2, 7
20 Glossop Skins Pitch 3
Unknown 30m
22 The Icing On The Cake
  1. 40m Start on Initiation for 15m, move left then up past 5 carrots to double carrot belay.

  2. 35m Straight up past 4 carrots to abseil chains.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Gordon Brysland, 1996

Mixed trad 75m, 2, 9
18 The Initiation

You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - just locate one of the rap anchors on the left hand side (facing out) of The Hump and start rapping there. Otherwise you can scramble in at the base of the cliff, but it is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. Regardless, in the end the climb is worth it!

Start beneath the obvious right leaning flake feature on the right side of the main cliff line, just around the corner from the main face. Take four bolt plates or so

  1. 40m (18) Up the tricky shallow corner to start and then into amazing jug flake. There are lots of possible places to set a hanging belay but it's best to continue to the stance just below where the flake turns vertical and belay off trad here. Alternatively you could continue up this as well and belay off a carrot bolt and some large cams on the sloping ledge above.

  2. 20m (15) From stance below the vertical section, climb up to the sloping ledge and traverse right past a BR and some exciting slab moves. Climb down into crack/gulley until you can step easily across to below the obvious hand crack on the opposite wall. Belay here.

  3. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue up the slab to the top. Trad belay.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), 1970

FFA: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, 1976

Mixed trad 90m, 3, 1
24 The Initiation Direct Finish
Unknown 35m
25 Staple Diet

Abseil from trad gear about 8m to the right of the anchors atop 'Glossop Skins', down over the traverse of 'The Initiation', to a semi-hanging belay off two bolts in a gently-angled scoop. Easy slabbing past a couple of bolts, then up through the traverse of 'The Initiation' (BR), to gain a rightward-leaning groove (wires and small/medium cams). When this fizzles out, head up via three bolts (crux) to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff 2008

Unknown 30m, 6
11 Sunshine Superman
Unknown 55m
24 Whitetails

Climbs the Redbacks wall to the left of that route; the 'hole' 2/3 the way up the wall is a landmark. Up past a few bolts.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Unknown
23 Redbacks
Trad 25m
26 Spinarete

Starts 2 or 3m right of 'Redbacks'. From the extreme right end of the ledge, make an exposed few moves up and right and follow the bolts up just left of the arete. Toward the top, angle up leftward to gain the 'Redbacks' belay.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson

Sport 25m, 7
21 Lean Too
Unknown 25m

Showing all 47 routes.

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