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Description:© (koala)

Starts beneath the thick flake on the right side of the main cliffline - just around the corner. Climb the flake crack for approx 50 metres, then traverse across and down past carrot bolts to the deep gully and up the obvious grade 15 handcrack visible in the opposite wall - finish up the slab. Take two or three bolt plates.

Start: You can abseil in to the climb in two pitches. It requires two 50m ropes - Refer to the Mt 'Buffalo' Guide by Kevin Lindorf and Simon Murray. The scramble in at the base of the cliff is quite arduous and some might like to rope up for sections of it. But in the end the climb is worth it!

  1. 14m (18) Chimney up to, then up the flake to where you are most comfortable.

  2. 26m (12) Continue right along the crack flake and up to a small ledge - though the recommeded way to climb this pitch now is to continue on to a comfy belay at the 1st bolt (and large cams) before the traverse.

  3. 27m (15) Continue up and around the nose to a bolt then across and down past one new and two old carrot bolts to the comfy seat below the hand crack. This traverse is best done as a separate pitch - refer to the 2nd pitch alternative.

  4. 30m (15) Up the excellent hand crack and continue to the top.

Ethic: inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (free & aid), Dec 1970

  • First Free Ascent: Peter Trelby & Peter Watling (alts) J McClosky, Jan 1976


Located in The Hump Area approx:
Lat/Long: -36.758155,146.787542

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade
18 ** ACA Route Register
18 RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 Mt Buffalo

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 82%

Lead Styles

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Comments keywords

crux hard super beautiful fun cool nice fantastic good brilliant amazing great enjoyable classic superb awesome scary fall feet rest interesting epic layback short flake easy vertical jamming sharp fist traverse crack

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