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Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

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Routes

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1
23 The Dyke Next Door Trad 15m

Prominent thin crack up the boulder at the head of the Wall Of China Gully. Bolt belay. Abseil off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marion, 1989

2

Start about 4m right of 'The Dyke Next Door', left of the wide crack. Up past BR to step left around arete and up thin seam.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

3
16 Punt A Parrot Unknown 45m
4
8 Frozen Parrot Unknown 50m
5
7 The China Way Unknown 49m

The corner left of the ledge which runs across the cliff low down. It's not certain which corner it is.

  1. 12m The crack in the corner to ledge.

  2. 37m The crack, rightwards when it forks.

FA: Greg Lovejoy & George Glover, 1961

6
11 Mod-Diff Unknown 70m 3

It is probable that this is essentially a repeat of The China Way after the initial crack. Start as for Gawker.

  1. 27m The crack to the big ledge then move left into the corner and up until it steepens,

  2. 34m (11) The corner until it widens and is choked by boulders. Up the right-hand of two cracks up the wall. Move over the bulge and up to chockstone.

  3. 9m Over the chockstone to the top.

FA: Rein Kamar, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1968

7
9 Gawker Unknown 33m 2

Three cracks lead up the initial short wall to the large ledge running below the main face. This starts up the left-hand crack.

  1. 9m Up the crack to big ledge and move left to base of another crack.

  2. 24m Up the crack and step right to a sentry-box at 18m. Bridge the sentry box to a large ledge.

FA: John O'Halloran & Gary Hampel, 1961

8
18 R Brontosaurus Waltz Trad 20m

Very runout. Start at the corner on the right edge of the summit block (as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'). A rising traverse left around the arete and then runout across the face leads to a groove near the left side of the face. Up this to the top. There's gear in the groove but it's not great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982

9
23 Flicker Mixed 20m, 2

OK. Not sure if the old bolts have been replaced. Start as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'. Climb the corner until 2 metres below the roof. Move left around the fang of rock on the arete and up the face past 2 bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1982

10
M5 Gawker Direct Finish Aid 18m, 2

The final wall is unlikely to go free. Aid the corner on the right edge of the summit block to the roof. Move right and up thin crack. Some old bolts.

FA: Chis Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969

11
23 Tienanmen Square Trad 20m

The prominent crack right of 'Gawker Direct Finish'

FA: Steve Monks & Ian Anger, 1992

12
8 Impetus Unknown 63m 3

Not a bad route, especially the first 30m or so. Start below the middle of 3 short cracks leading to the big ledge about 9m up.

  1. 9m Crack to huge ledge.

  2. 27m Step left then up the left-hand of twin cracks to the S-curve. Follow this left and up to belay below the sentry-box of Gawker.

  3. 27m Move left and up wide left-sloping crack (a good alternative is to bridge the sentry-box section on Gawker).

FA: Bruno Zielke, Peter Watlin, Peter Watling & P.Selliani, 1968

13
19 * Lucinda Trad 42m 2

An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.

  1. 27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.

  2. 15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1989

14
11 Oscar Trad 36m

A good easy jam-crack that should get climbed more often. Originally climbed in two pitches. The crack-line on the right-hand side of the smooth wall. A short section up to the big ledge and then the narrow crack.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Peter Watling, 1968

15
14 Granny Trad 63m 3

A good-looking climb up an obvious line further down the gully from the main face.

  1. 24m (14) Climb the corner-cack until it forks out. Belay on ledge on left.

  2. 27m Step right and up twin cracks for 9m then awkward traverse left for 6m. Either climb obvious crack to top or traverse 2m further left and layback edge of narrowing chimney.

  3. 12m Smooth boulder on left of chimney

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

16
14 Warlord Trad 54m

Nice looking finishing crack and in the shade but needs a good clean.

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