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23 The Dyke Next Door Trad 15m

Prominent thin crack up the boulder at the head of the Wall Of China Gully. Bolt belay. Abseil off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marion, 1989


Start about 4m right of 'The Dyke Next Door', left of the wide crack. Up past BR to step left around arete and up thin seam.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

16 Punt A Parrot Unknown 45m
8 Frozen Parrot Unknown 50m
7 The China Way Unknown 49m
11 Mod-Diff Unknown 70m
9 Gawker Unknown 33m
18 R Brontosaurus Waltz Trad 20m

Very runout. Start at the corner on the right edge of the summit block (as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'). A rising traverse left around the arete and then runout across the face leads to a groove near the left side of the face. Up this to the top. There's gear in the groove but it's not great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982

M5 Gawker Direct Finish Aid 18m, 2

The final wall is unlikely to go free. Aid the corner on the right edge of the summit block to the roof. Move right and up thin crack. Some old bolts.

FA: Chis Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke, 1969

23 Flicker Mixed 20m, 2

OK. Not sure if the old bolts have been replaced. Start as for 'Gawker Direct Finish'. Climb the corner until 2 metres below the roof. Move left around the fang of rock on the arete and up the face past 2 bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1982

8 Impetus Unknown 63m
19 * Lucinda Trad 42m 2

An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.

  1. 27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.

  2. 15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1989

11 Oscar Trad 36m

A good easy jam-crack that should get climbed more often. Originally climbed in two pitches. The crack-line on the right-hand side of the smooth wall. A short section up to the big ledge and then the narrow crack.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Peter Watling, 1968

23 Tienanmen Square Trad 20m

The prominent crack right of 'Gawker Direct Finish'

FA: Steve Monks & Ian Anger, 1992

14 Granny Trad 63m
14 Warlord Trad 54m

Nice looking finishing crack and in the shade but needs a good clean.


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