An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.
27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.
15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.
Jan 1989 | First ascent: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman |
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19 | Assigned grade |
18/19 | ★ Mt Buffalo |
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.
Overall quality 72 from 3 ratings.
Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff
Date: 2006
"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.
The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
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