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Summary

A sign banning rock climbing in the state forest (pretty much everything south of the lookout ) has appeared in late December 2014. And the north area is on private property.

Description

Bring loads of tape. The rock here is as hard as nails... and as sharp as them too. Loads of climbing to be had in all different styles. Almost every pinnacle, butress and wall has been bolted and there are loads of quality climbs to test yourself on.

The rock can feel quite soapy and can be a bit difficult to read causing climbers to look like they are "washing windows" looking for holds.

There are new routes going up all the time and it is important to respect the bolters and keep of all tatted routes.

Access issues

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Approach

Access to the main areas is constantly changing due to the current roadworks. At the moment turn up Blanch St then into McKenzie and at a state forestry sign cross the new freeway on an overpass. The track to the mountain carpark goes straight up the hill. Unfortunately the rain in March 2013 has caused major damage and forestry is likely and should close this rd until repaired. At present- April 2013- the road has huge potholes and is difficult even for 4WDs. It is best to walk and follow the trail. Take the hairpin bend to the main carpark for Delah walls/ Boiler wall and the pinnacles or the right fork takes you to Argentina and Billy Woods wall.

Where to stay

Buladelah has several motels, cheap but basic rooms at the hotel, and a camping ground. Camping also possible in nearby Myall Lakes national park.

Ethic

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

First recorded climbs date from 1980, therehas had a steady stream of routes added ever since, most notably by John Wilde and Vanessa Wills.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bulahdelah.