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Summary

A sign banning rock climbing in the state forest (pretty much everything south of the lookout ) has appeared in late December 2014. And the north area is on private property.

Description

Bring loads of tape. The rock here is as hard as nails... and as sharp as them too. Loads of climbing to be had in all different styles. Almost every pinnacle, butress and wall has been bolted and there are loads of quality climbs to test yourself on.

The rock can feel quite soapy and can be a bit difficult to read causing climbers to look like they are "washing windows" looking for holds.

There are new routes going up all the time and it is important to respect the bolters and keep of all tatted routes.

Access issues

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Where to stay

Buladelah has several motels, cheap but basic rooms at the hotel, and a camping ground. Camping also possible in nearby Myall Lakes national park.

Ethic

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

First recorded climbs date from 1980, therehas had a steady stream of routes added ever since, most notably by John Wilde and Vanessa Wills.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bulahdelah.