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Description

Bring loads of tape. The rock here is as hard as nails... and as sharp as them too. Loads of climbing to be had in all different styles. Almost every pinnacle, butress and wall has been bolted and there are loads of quality climbs to test yourself on.

The rock can feel quite soapy and can be a bit difficult to read causing climbers to look like they are "washing windows" looking for holds.

There are new routes going up all the time and it is important to respect the bolters and keep of all tatted routes.

Access issues

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Approach

Access to the main areas is constantly changing due to the current roadworks. At the moment turn up Blanch St then into McKenzie and at a state forestry sign cross the new freeway on an overpass. The track to the mountain carpark goes straight up the hill. Unfortunately the rain in March 2013 has caused major damage and forestry is likely and should close this rd until repaired. At present- April 2013- the road has huge potholes and is difficult even for 4WDs. It is best to walk and follow the trail. Take the hairpin bend to the main carpark for Delah walls/ Boiler wall and the pinnacles or the right fork takes you to Argentina and Billy Woods wall.

Where to stay

Buladelah has several motels, cheap but basic rooms at the hotel, and a camping ground. Camping also possible in nearby Myall Lakes national park.

Ethic

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

History

First recorded climbs date from 1980, therehas had a steady stream of routes added ever since, most notably by John Wilde and Vanessa Wills.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
 Sport,  Trad and other styles
28
106
19m
27
53
18m
35
121
12m
61
167
18m
11
21
21m
17
46
15m
5
16
14m
1
9
19
15m
25
139
16m
2
5
7
24m
9
138
15m
3
4
8
12m

Open trips

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