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Description

A nice shaded wall on the eastern side of the mountain. Has a few sharp trad cracks and some good sport lines.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Approach

At the cutting turn east down the hill, below Trent's Corner.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Good One Jono Trad 14m

Up slab to the juggy crack up high, anchors at top

FA: John Wilde & Mick Mayer

2
16 Tarzan Trad

As for Good One Jono, but traverse out right to finish as for Jane.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

3
20 Jane Trad 10m

Up thin seam to clean spot on wall, anchors above in the lichen.

FA: John Wilde

4
19 Gaza Strip Trad

Thin crack 2m right of Jane.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

5
23 ** Beirut Sport 15m

Up blunt arete with hard moves down low, then jug blissfully to top anchors

FA: Daniel Wilde

6
22 ** Baghdad Sport 15m

Start in the small corner, step left at the small roof, follow blunt arete to finish as for Beirut.

FA: Daniel Wilde, 2011

7
16 * Kuwait Trad 15m

Start around arete on the slab and up wide crack to tree, anchors behind on boulder.

FA: Mick Mayer, 2009

Activity

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