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Table of contents

1. Fieg's Overhang 28 routes in Area

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.222138, -32.405111




Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. Flagpole Wall 10 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Renaissance

Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

20 Trad 20m
2 Lord Jim

AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top.

FA: David Gray, Lewis Carey, Michael Almond, 1980

8 Trad 15m
3 Used Car Delah

Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

18 Trad 15m
4 She-oak Crack

Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak.

FA: David Gray, V Wills

13 Trad 15m
5 Sedona

Climb wall and groove above small cave, a few metres left of Shattered Dreams to Double Ring Bolt belay.

FA: Dave Gray, V Wills, 2013

17 Trad 25m
6 Shattered Dreams

On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil.

FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013

18 Sport 15m, 6
7 Piper route

Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall

FA: 2013

Sport 20m
8 Trigonometry

Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard)

FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013

19 Trad 20m
9 Bird Noises

Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T.

FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013

17 Trad 20m
10 Half Mast

Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left.

FA: V Wills, David Gray

15 Trad 20m

1.2. Golden Wall 2 routes in Sector

All Sport

The middle tier accessed above the overhang

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crossing To The Dark Side

Shared start going left to over bulge and up head wall to left lower off.

FA: John Mullan, Jason Piper, 2013

17 Sport 16m, 7
2 ** Not So Dark Side

Shared start up slab trending right to tough finish.

FA: John Mullan, Jason Piper, 2013

19 Sport 17m, 8

1.3. Fiegs cave 3 routes in Sector

All Sport

The overhanging ramp

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Foghorn Leghorn

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs.

Set by George Fieg, 1997

27 Sport 18m, 8
2 Project(George Fieg) 28 Sport 24m
3 ??????? 2 28 Sport 22m

1.4. Fiegs right wall 13 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

The area between the base of the ramp and the gully up to the Beehive

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Tim Haasnoot

starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Sport Project 15m
2 Project Tim Haasnoot

project that goes left of scoops to anchors in corner

Sport Project
3 ** Bugs Bunny

Starts 2m left of Sarah's Climb. Up into the first cave, then tough move to second cave and out pumpy finish. Fixed hangers.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2013

24 Sport 15m, 5
4 Sky Pilot

Crux is a pumper @ 3rd ring. On upper tier starting above handlebar route. Trends initially right and then left to anchors. Some poor rock towards the top. 60m rope won't get you and your belayer to the ground.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

19 Sport 18m
5 * Ridin the rope

Start at the top of Sarah's Climb. 5 rings and 2 U-bolt loweroff. Crux from 2nd ring to 5th.

FA: Justin Jefferson, John Wilde, 2004

23 Sport 15m
6 Sarah's Climb

Originally graded 22!! Start in the small alcove, up the U bolts to finish below the upper wall. Try not to drift to far right.

FA: Sarah Fieg

24 Sport 12m
7 Acme Corporation P2

Step R from anchors on ramp and up through roof to easier ground. Shares anchors with PATB.

19 Sport 12m, 5
8 * Acme Corporation

Start just left of the tree, 2m to the right of Sarah's Climb. Up trending left to halfway anchors. Continue up on the fixed hangers on a tough move off the ledge.

FA: Brad Williams, 2013

19 Sport 24m, 5
9 Pinky and The Brain

Start just to right of tree at base of wall and to left of crack. Up following fixed hangers crossing diagonal ramp. Extend draws to avoid rope drag. Up and left after taking weakness through roof, to shared anchors with AC.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2013

18 Sport 24m, 11
10 Diagonal ramp

A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot.

FA: J Wilde

10 Trad 20m
11 First Of Many

Its not the first route, but definitely an early one. The striking fist sized right slanting corner- crack. Clean orange rock half way up.

FA: John Wilde, Dan Rogers, 1984

16 Trad 25m
12 * Meat and Beer

Line of fixed hangers up the groove on the wall left and down from the Bee Hive Wall.Fixed biner on last bolt is anchor for now.

FA: John Wilde,, 2006

18 to 19 Sport 18m
13 Crackpot

Up the crack right of meat and beer to join that route at its second last bolt and shared anchors. Not clean at present.

19 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Lord Jim Trad 15m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
10 Diagonal ramp Trad 20m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
13 She-oak Crack Trad 15m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
15 Half Mast Trad 20m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
16 First Of Many Trad 25m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
17 Bird Noises Trad 20m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
Sedona Trad 25m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
Crossing To The Dark Side Sport 16m, 7 1.2. Golden Wall
18 Shattered Dreams Sport 15m, 6 1.1. Flagpole Wall
Used Car Delah Trad 15m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
Pinky and The Brain Sport 24m, 11 1.4. Fiegs right wall
18 to 19 * Meat and Beer Sport 18m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
19 Trigonometry Trad 20m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
** Not So Dark Side Sport 17m, 8 1.2. Golden Wall
* Acme Corporation Sport 24m, 5 1.4. Fiegs right wall
Acme Corporation P2 Sport 12m, 5 1.4. Fiegs right wall
Crackpot Trad 15m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
Sky Pilot Sport 18m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
20 ** Renaissance Trad 20m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
23 * Ridin the rope Sport 15m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
24 ** Bugs Bunny Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Fiegs right wall
Sarah's Climb Sport 12m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
27 ** Foghorn Leghorn Sport 18m, 8 1.3. Fiegs cave
28 ??????? 2 Sport 22m 1.3. Fiegs cave
Project(George Fieg) Sport 24m 1.3. Fiegs cave
? Piper route Sport 20m 1.1. Flagpole Wall
Project Tim Haasnoot Sport Project 15m 1.4. Fiegs right wall
Project Tim Haasnoot Sport Project 1.4. Fiegs right wall