Fieg's Overhang Area guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vanessa Wills JJ daniel wilde Tim Haasnoot Jason Smith Jimmy Mullan Jon Ash

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Fieg's Overhang 24 in Area
- 1.1. Flagpole Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.2. Golden Wall 0 in Sector
- 1.3. Fiegs cave 3 in Sector
- 1.4. Fiegs right wall 12 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Fieg's Overhang 24 routes in Area

seasonality

Summary:: Sport,Trad and ?
Description:: THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

CLIMBERS DO NOT HAVE PERMISSION TO CLIMB HERE!!!
Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah: Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.
Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah: If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. Flagpole Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad,Sport
Description:: Head up through the Overhang past the Golden Wall to saddle. Climbs listed L to R from saddle around to vertical orange wall under the highest part of the mountain.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Renaissance Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013	20	Trad 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Seconded Dave. One of the nicer cracks at Bulaa, though could do with some scrubbing
2	Lord Jim AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top. FA: David Gray, Lewis Carey, Michael Almond, 1980	8	Trad 15m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago A piece of history
3	Used Car Delah Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013	18	Trad 15m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Looks like easy gully but quite steep in places. Interesting small gear in pockets on upper corne...
4	She-oak Crack Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak. FA: David Gray, V Wills,	13	Trad 15m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Was a mass of pine needles which will probably reaccumulate
5	Shattered Dreams On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil. FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013	18	Sport 15m , 6	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Good lower section. Take care with rock up higher. ANchors at weird angles due to lack of options...
6	Piper route Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall FA: , 2013		Sport 20m
7	Trigonometry Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard) FA: David Gray, V Wills, 2013	19	Trad 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Seconded Dave. Safer now with the bolt and the loose block gone
8	Bird Noises Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T. FA: V Wills, David Gray, 2013	17	Trad 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Follows a nice diagonal with good gear
9	Half Mast Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left. FA: V Wills, David Gray,	15	Trad 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 months ago Better than I thought it would be, now that death block is gone.Good gear.

1.2. Golden Wall 0 routes in Sector

Description:: The middle tier accessed above the overhang

1.3. Fiegs cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:: ?,Sport
Description:: The overhanging ramp

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Foghorn Leghorn Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux)	27	Sport 15m	Jason Smith 2 years ago Much more harder stuff to go around here
2	Project(George Fieg)	28	Unknown 24m
3	??????? 2	28	Unknown 22m

1.4. Fiegs right wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The area between the base of the ramp and the gully up to the Beehive

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	base of ramp starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner		Sport 15m
2	Project left of large scoops project that goes left of scoops to anchors in corner		Sport Project
3	Handlebar hold Starts 2m left of SF route and goes up right side of cave past haandlebar hold.	24	Sport 15m
4	Sky Pilot Crux is a pumper @ 3rd ring. On upper tier starting above handlebar route. Trends initially right and then left to anchors. FA: John Wilde, 2004	19	Sport 18m	Vanessa Wills 5 weeks ago Got routes around wrong way. This is an old one of Johnnys with some average bolting. High in Bul... Vanessa Wills 6 weeks ago Nice move off ledge, but rock a little scary.
5	Ridin the rope Start at the top of sarah's 22. 5 rings and 2 U-bolt loweroff. Crux from 2nd ring to 5th. FA: Justin Jefferson, John Wilde, 2004	23	Sport 15m	JJ 8 years ago Bouldery line, easier ground over lip :-) Run it out to loweroffs.
6	SF / ?????1 FA: Sarah Fieg,	23	Sport 10m	Vanessa Wills 5 weeks ago First go today. Pumpy. Vanessa Wills 6 weeks ago Too much jamming makes you weak! Will have to return for this one n a couple of weeks.
7	Above ledge route on fixed hangers Step R from anchors on ramp and up through roof to easier ground. Shares anchors with the long 17 that starts to the right of large tree.	19	Sport 12m , 5	Vanessa Wills 5 weeks ago Nice heel hook, and risk of nasty fall onto ledge,but thats about it.
8	Route on RBS start just left of tree, 2m to the right of Sarah Fiegs route. Up trending left to anchors just below a route continuing up on fixed hangers. Can easily be linked into this route to make a 24m route. FA: T Haasnoot, 2013	20	Sport 12m , 5	Vanessa Wills 6 weeks ago Reachy start if short. Lots of treacherous slopers
9	RIght hand route on FHs Start just to right of tree at base of wall and to left of crack. Up following fixed hangers crossing diagonal ramp. Extend draws to avoid rope drag. Up and left after taking weakness through roof, to shared anchors with SP. A cam may help run out between 3rd and 4th bolt. FA: , 2013	17	Sport 24m , 11	Vanessa Wills 6 weeks ago Extend draws or suffer rope drag from bolting that wanders even more than the climb.
10	Diagonal ramp A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, then handlebar route to anchors for SP. FA: J Wilde,	10	Trad 20m	Vanessa Wills 5 weeks ago whatever, trying to suss out upper tier.
11	First route- crack Its not the first route, but definitely an early one. The striking fist sized right slanting corner- crack 3m left of Mand B with clean orange rock half way up.	17	Trad 25m
12	Meat and Beer Line of fixed hangers up the groove on the wall left and down from the beehives. Fixed biner on last bolt is anchor FA: John Wilde, 2006	18 to 19	Sport 18m	Vanessa Wills 4 years ago A bit mossy, but interesting

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
8	Lord Jim	Trad 15m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
10	Diagonal ramp	Trad 20m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
13	She-oak Crack	Trad 15m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
15	Half Mast	Trad 20m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
17	Bird Noises	Trad 20m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
	First route- crack	Trad 25m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
	RIght hand route on FHs	Sport 24m , 11	1.4. Fiegs right wall
18	Shattered Dreams	Sport 15m , 6	1.1. Flagpole Wall
	Used Car Delah	Trad 15m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
18 to 19	Meat and Beer	Sport 18m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
19	Trigonometry	Trad 20m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
	Above ledge route on fixed hangers	Sport 12m , 5	1.4. Fiegs right wall
	Sky Pilot	Sport 18m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
20	Renaissance	Trad 20m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
	Route on RBS	Sport 12m , 5	1.4. Fiegs right wall
23	Ridin the rope	Sport 15m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
	SF	Sport 10m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
24	Handlebar hold	Sport 15m	1.4. Fiegs right wall
27	Foghorn Leghorn	Sport 15m	1.3. Fiegs cave
28	??????? 2	Unknown 22m	1.3. Fiegs cave
	Project(George Fieg)	Unknown 24m	1.3. Fiegs cave
?	Piper route	Sport 20m	1.1. Flagpole Wall
	Project left of large scoops	Sport Project	1.4. Fiegs right wall
	base of ramp	Sport 15m	1.4. Fiegs right wall

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