THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!
Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain. Beware of beehives.
Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.
From Fieg's Overhang, walk left and follow the bottom of the crag. The climb up on the rocks and you should reach the cave.
If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Tim Haasnoot
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780975129319
An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.
20 | ★★ Got that Phelan feeling | ||
23 | ★★ Pudding Pullers | ||
24 | ★★ Pull Ya Plonka | ||
25 | ★★★ Black Leg Miner | ||
26 | ★★★ Karma Gettin | ||
28 | ★★★ Creature of Habit |
Jason Piper on ★★★ Mrs Troglodyte 26 - Mrs Troglodyte
★★★ Pinching Pidgeons 27 - Jesse Lomas
JJ on ★★★ Sugar Monster 27 - JJ on his climb "Sugar Monster" 28
Aidan Smith on ★★ Flesh Gording 26 - Aidan hanging around
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