Hoppy's Cave Mostly sport climbing

36 routes in area

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Description

THIS AREA IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY!!!

Climbing in the cave is quite unique. Some love it, others hate it. The rock can be sharp and the holds hard to find. Most of the routes are super steep and can be climbed in heavy rain.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Goanna Walk Trad 60m
3
25 * Toast Sport 12m

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

FA: Ian Geatches, 1997

4
26 *** Karma Gettin Sport 24m

Climb Toast, then head up and then right, going up and around buldge to 2 wire gate loweroffs. 12 rings in total.

FA: Justin Jefferson, 2004

5
25 Troglodyte (Pitch 1) Sport 15m

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

6
24 ** Pull Ya Plonka Sport 20m, 6

Up the overhanging, leftward trending wall past purple coloured sheild, up to the "plonka" at the semi-rest then trough another overhang to lower off in cave.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

7
27 Sugar Monster Sport 35m

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

FA: Justin Jefferson, 2008

8

Starts with the ring on the sloping lip. Right of Pull ya,head out towards the centre of the cave, tricky move under the lip. Head up towards the pink threader. Easiest of the 23's here!

FA: John Wilde

9
22 Left Traverse Sport 12m

Prob the easiset warm-up in the cave. Starting 2m left of black leg, mantle up and traverse out left to the edge of the cave.

FA: John Wilde

11

Finishes the first big cave with the laydown ledge

FA: John Wilde

12
25 *** Black Leg Miner Sport 30m

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

13
26 Long Wall Mining Sport 12

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just left of "Sugar Monster"

FA: Dan wilde, 2008

14
24 * Legless Miner Sport

Starts at the Fresh Gording ledge and links up with Black Leg Miner to finish on the same anchors.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

15
26 * Fresh Gording Sport 20m, 8

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

FA: Jason Piper, 2004

16

Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in true style with about 25 knee bars! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep pumping all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave.

FA: Jason Piper, 2009

17
23 * Pigeons Don't Pinch Sport 15m, 6

Start as for PFN- up block then climb right around and under roof to anchors of Trotters Trifecta 2. A short route worthwhile in its own right.

FA: John Wilde, 1997

18
23 * Pigeon Fancers Nightmare Sport 20m, 9

Start at back of cave near pinkish rock. Up easily to clip first bolt from ledge then climb out rib via good pocket heading left around to anchors of BLM. Can keep going left and all the way out to lip of cave. Back climb to clean.

FA: John Wilde, Tim Phelan, 1997

19
25 * Trotters Trifecta 2 Sport 15m

The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors.

FA: Jason Piper, 2004

20
27 ** Pinching Pidgeons Sport 25m, 6

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

FA: Jason Piper, 2005

21
27 On The Prow Sport 20m, 9

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

Set by Tim Haasnoot, Jason Piper, 2010

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012

22
26 Wildie's Warmup Sport 20m

Sharp, tough start. Can be done starting as for Powdered Poo, then re-joining route at 3rd bolt, 22.

FA: John Wilde

23
24 ** Osama's Bin bolting Sport 22m

Start as for PP, but head up before the rest, out lip to pumpy finish. Top can be wet in the rain.

FA: Justin Jefferson, 2004

24
22 Powdered Poo Sport 20m

The arching left line finishing in the small cave with the nest of white goodness.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
The Terrace Sector
11
69
19m