Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Some long quality sport routes on the south western side of the mountain. Afternoon sun through the trees.

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Approach

From the sharp left-hand bend in the tourist road aproximatly400m before the main mountain car park, park here. Follow the trail south for 200m along track the head directly up the hill. After another 100m you should be below a few slab routes.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
22 ** Silly Hoods Sport 18m

Start up billy woods then follow the line of bolts out left.

2
22 *** Billy Woods Sport 22m

Long and pumpy. Consistent climbing up the left end of wall.

FA: John Wilde

3
23 ** Jack Stokes Sport 15m

Starting on the smooth white rock 2m right of billy. Straight up the vague crack and pump it out to top.

4
24 ** Ted Baker Sport 15m

Traverse left for a few moves then straight up wall. Ring bolts.

5
22 ** Chew Baker Sport 12m

Start down low and then up a few moves and up to the right.

FA: Daniel Wilde

6
24 * THe Photocopier Lady Sport 12m, 5

Easier moves to spike then head right on desperately thin holds to sloper on bulge and up to anchors on Chewbacca. 5 Fhs.

FA: Daniel Wilde

7
20 ** Chrispy Sport 15m

Start at the low belay bolt then straight up wall.

FA: John Wilde

8
21 * Lady Smith Sport 15m

3m right of Chrispy, up the slab to a good stance, then up the steep wall.

FA: John Wilde, 2008

9
19 ** The Quarry Man Sport 15m

The ever steepening route on the right of the slab. Follow the flake to start then traverse left to anchors.

FA: John Wilde, 2008

Activity

Check out what is happening in Billy Woods wall.