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From the car park walk back down the road and onto the Ted Baker track as for Billy Woods wall. Turn left up the hill about 40 metres before Billy Woods wall and cross the ridge through a small notch buttress is immediately in front of you. Routes are described from lowest to highest (left to right)

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

Up slopey arete near large tree at left hand end of wall. Shares anchor with left bolted crack.

FA: J Wilde, Jun 2012

The left hand crack, trending left at the top ledge. Care getting to 5th bolt as it is run out- or take a finger sized cam.

FA: J Wilde, 2011

Start up left hand crack, taking the right crack after the 4th bolt to the anchors of Cryptostylis, needs medium gear.

FA: J Wilde & V Wills, 2011

The right hand steep crack

FA: V Wills, Sep 2011

Starting down low, left of the main wall. Up boulder to gain the wall above. Up the face just left of the arete. Anchors are over the back and may require abseil to get back down.

FA: John Wilde, 2007

Set by John Wilde, 2007

The fixed hangers on the left arete of the upper wall. Access by scrambling through cleft next to DendroKing then dropping down through leaf litter to climb carefully onto ledge. Belay off bolts with shackles.

FA: John Wilde, 2011

Start up boulder to high clip high first bolt (or clip it from side for safety). From top of block strenuous layback up flake to further hard moves that dont relent until near the top. Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

Set by Daniel Wilde, 2011

FA: Dan Wilde., 2012

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts then out right to finish as for Talc.

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

Bouldery start to ledge, traverse left then over bulge, then pump it out up crack/ seam to top

Set by John Wilde

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

Start as for the 2 routes to the right and traverse to the FHs. Up through rooflet and trend left. Shares anchors with route to right at moment but separate finish intended

FA: John Wilde & Paul Riviere

FA: John Wilde, 2010

Arete on ring bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Set by John Wilde, 2004

Hex bolted line just left of the chimney.

Set by John Wilde, 2005

Step off block onto arete then up flake and left to anchors

FA: V Wills, 2011

The rightmost route on the the west facing wall, starting from the ground. Up easy crack to ledge then a hard move over bulge to the right of flake

FA: V Wills, Sep 2011


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