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Description

From the car park walk back down the road and onto the Ted Baker track as for Billy Woods wall. Turn left up the hill about 40 metres before Billy Woods wall and cross the ridge through a small notch buttress is immediately in front of you. Routes are described from lowest to highest (left to right)

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
22 Silly arete Sport Project 12m, 5

Up slopey arete near large tree at left hand end of wall. Shares anchor with left bolted crack.

FA: J Wilde, 2012

2
21 Bin Diver Sport 15m, 7

The left hand crack, trending left at the top ledge. Care getting to 5th bolt as it is run out- or take a finger sized cam.

FA: J Wilde, 2011

3
21 Hunteriana Mixed 15m, 6

Start up left hand crack, taking the right crack after the 4th bolt to the anchors of Cryptostylis, needs medium gear.

FA: J Wilde, V Wills, 2011

4
22 ** Cryptostylis Sport 12m, 7

The right hand steep crack

FA: V Wills, 2011

5

Starting down low, left of the main wall. Up boulder to gain the wall above. Up the face just left of the arete. Anchors are over the back and may require abseil to get back down.

FA: John Wilde, 2007

Set by John Wilde, 2007

6
19 * Me Amigo Sport 22m, 5

The fixed hangers on the left arete of the upper wall. Access by scrambling through cleft next to DendroKing then dropping down through leaf litter to climb carefully onto ledge. Belay off bolts with shackles.

FA: John Wilde, 2011

7
25 ** Son Of A Bin Diver Sport 20m, 8

Start up boulder to high clip high first bolt (or clip it from side for safety). From top of block strenuous layback up flake to further hard moves that dont relent until near the top. Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

Set by Daniel Wilde, 2011

FA: Dan Wilde., 2012

8
Project (Dan Wilde) Sport Project 18m

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts then out right to finish as for Talc.

9
26 ** Talc Sport 12m

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

10
25 ** Our Kid Sport 14m, 10

Bouldery start to ledge, traverse left then over bulge, then pump it out up crack/ seam to top

Set by John Wilde

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

11

Start as for the 2 routes to the right and traverse to the FHs. Up through rooflet and trend left. Shares anchors with route to right at moment but separate finish intended

FA: John Wilde, Paul Riviere

FA: John Wilde, 2010

12
20 Awkward Arete Sport 15m

Arete on ring bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Set by John Wilde, 2004

13
19 ** Dendro King Sport 15m

Hex bolted line just left of the chimney.

Set by John Wilde, 2005

14
21 Rhizanella Sport 12m, 7

Step off block onto arete then up flake and left to anchors

FA: V Wills, 2011

15
20 Lady slipper Sport 15m, 7

The rightmost route on the the west facing wall, starting from the ground. Up easy crack to ledge then a hard move over bulge to the right of flake

FA: V Wills, 2011