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Table of contents

1. Orchids Buttress 15 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.225596, -32.418060

Description:

From the car park walk back down the road and onto the Ted Baker track as for Billy Woods wall. Turn left up the hill about 40 metres before Billy Woods wall and cross the ridge through a small notch buttress is immediately in front of you. Routes are described from lowest to highest (left to right)

Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Silly arete

Up slopey arete near large tree at left hand end of wall. Shares anchor with left bolted crack.

FA: J Wilde, 2012

22Sport Project 12m, 5 Aidan Smith 1 years ago

strange and hard...and strange

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Still found the crux move tricky. Nice boulder problem

2 Bin Diver

The left hand crack, trending left at the top ledge. Care getting to 5th bolt as it is run out- or take a finger sized cam.

FA: J Wilde, 2011

21Sport 15m, 7 Aidan Smith 1 years ago

big block came off...some others look suss...watch out!

Tim Haasnoot 1 years ago

Not to bad

3 Hunteriana

Start up left hand crack, taking the right crack after the 4th bolt to the anchors of Cryptostylis, needs medium gear.

FA: J Wilde, V Wills, 2011

21Mixed 15m, 6 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Mosy and the tree route is annoying

4 ** Cryptostylis

The right hand steep crack

FA: V Wills, 2011

22Sport 12m, 7 Aidan Smith 1 years ago

almost classic...stopper moves right at the end

Tim Haasnoot 1 years ago

fun moves, tough finish

5 *** Cupcake aka The muffin man.

Starting down low, left of the main wall. Up boulder to gain the wall above. Up the face just left of the arete. Anchors are over the back and may require abseil to get back down.

FA: John Wilde, 2007

Set by John Wilde, 2007

24Sport 25m Tim Haasnoot 1 years ago

Finally got back on it and got it first try today!!

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

A bit of everything. Burly start!

6 * Me Amigo

The fixed hangers on the left arete of the upper wall. Access by scrambling through cleft next to DendroKing then dropping down through leaf litter to climb carefully onto ledge. Belay off bolts with shackles.

FA: John Wilde, 2011

19Sport 22m, 5
7 ** Son Of A Bin Diver

Start up boulder to high clip high first bolt (or clip it from side for safety). From top of block strenuous layback up flake to further hard moves that dont relent until near the top. Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

Set by Daniel Wilde, 2011

FA: Dan Wilde., 2012

25Sport 20m, 8 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Wow, I have a bit of work to do. Dan reckoned this was 24 but it took him a year and Johnny could...

8 Project (Dan Wilde)

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts then out right to finish as for Talc.

Sport Project 18m
9 ** Talc

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

26Sport 12m Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Trying JPs beta is not going to work.....

Tim Haasnoot 1 years ago

Awesome moves and super sustained!

10 ** Our Kid

Bouldery start to ledge, traverse left then over bulge, then pump it out up crack/ seam to top

Set by John Wilde

FA: Dan Wilde, 2006

25Sport 14m, 10 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Back to pre Peru finger strength, and a tricky foot swap.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

I am so lame. 4 shots Fell at varying parts of crux.

11 ** The Fridge Thing / The refrigerator route

Start as for the 2 routes to the right and traverse to the FHs. Up through rooflet and trend left. Shares anchors with route to right at moment but separate finish intended

FA: John Wilde, Paul Riviere

FA: John Wilde, 2010

22Sport 18m Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Climbs a rad feature, a big hanging block. A few tricky places but a good long climb.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Hard at the end of the day, but not a good warm up either

12 Awkward Arete

Arete on ring bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2004

Set by John Wilde, 2004

20Sport 15m Aaron James Spinks 6 years ago

Nice line, with hard moves to finish

Vanessa Wills 7 years ago

A bit dirty, had tried it before when raining and very slippery

13 ** Dendro King

Hex bolted line just left of the chimney.

Set by John Wilde, 2005

19Sport 15m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Probably 18, a little tricky to start. Needs more traffic to keep moss away

Aaron James Spinks 6 years ago

A mossy little number, but fun start never the less

14 Rhizanella

Step off block onto arete then up flake and left to anchors

FA: V Wills, 2011

21Sport 12m, 7 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Tall people will think the bolts are too low but I dont care.

15 Lady slipper

The rightmost route on the the west facing wall, starting from the ground. Up easy crack to ledge then a hard move over bulge to the right of flake

FA: V Wills, 2011

20Sport 15m, 7 Aidan Smith 1 years ago

crap rock all over the place. shitty moves.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Looks easy but the holds are hard to find. Beware the holes on the approach that will swallow up ...

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
19 ** Dendro King Sport 15m
* Me Amigo Sport 22m, 5
20 Awkward Arete Sport 15m
Lady slipper Sport 15m, 7
21 Bin Diver Sport 15m, 7
Hunteriana Mixed 15m, 6
Rhizanella Sport 12m, 7
22 ** Cryptostylis Sport 12m, 7
Silly arete Sport Project 12m, 5
** The Fridge Thing Sport 18m
24 *** Cupcake aka The muffin man. Sport 25m
25 ** Our Kid Sport 14m, 10
** Son Of A Bin Diver Sport 20m, 8
26 ** Talc Sport 12m
? Project (Dan Wilde) Sport Project 18m