A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. The Delah Wall 25 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport
Description:

To get here turn to face the cutting at the car park. Go straight up the steep hill on the right side of the quarry on a faint track, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the 'Bumble Buttress' wall. 'Wildey on Wheels' is to the climbers left of the 'Baby pinnacle', 'Man Mountain' and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right. If you continue past a large burnt stump for 20 metres you will be at the 'No Cams wall' with 'Trickey Dickey' being the first route on the arete. Drop down for 'Look Mum No Cams'.

Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. The Dreaming Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

10 metres right of No Cams wall, overhung with a thin diagonal seam being its only feature.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rotten Rock'n Rollen Rockmellon

On the left side of The Dreaming Wall, up the slab to exposed moves up to lower off.

Set by Tim Haasnoot, Jason Piper

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012

16Sport 12m
2 *** Ya Dreaming (crispy project)

Project Chris

Sport Project 18m
3 Dreaming Right Hand Varient

Start as for Ya Dreaming but finish up TWUC.

Sport Project
4 * The Wake Up Call

Right of The Dreaming Wall, just left of the big tree. Up thin start to an interesting finish below the upper wall. Lower off as for Dreaming Project.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2012

26Sport Project 15m

1.2. No cams area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

20 metres to the right of bumble buttress on a separate wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tricky Dickey

Start just left of the burnt out tree stump, tough move to start, then up and left onto arete to lower off.

FA: Adian Smith, 2011

21Sport 17m
2 Trickey Dickey variant finish

After the 6th bolt on Trickey Dickey step right past one bolt to anchors of route to the right

21Sport 15m
3 Portion Control

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

27Sport Project 20m, 5
4 Project Tim 2

Up the middle of the wall, thin at start.

Sport Project 18m, 6
5 *** The Beast Factor

Thin climbing to finish right of the large stag horn. Some interesting small and slopey holds.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

28Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Look mum no tendons

Start next to the small fig 4m left of the "look mum no cams" start. Up past two fixed hangers to join LMNC to top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

25Sport 18m
7 *** Look mum, no cams!

climb obvious bolted crack. Careful at 3rd bolt.

FA: Nick kaz., 2006

24Sport 18m
8 Yo mama

Clip first bolt of LMNC, then head straight up following fixed hangers to lower offs.

FA: Brad Williams, 2011

20Sport 15m

1.3. Bumble Buttress 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

To get here go straight up the hill on the right side of the quarry from the mountain car park, cross the saddle in the ridge and veer left and up to the wall. Wildey on Wheels is to the climbers left of the baby pinnacle, Man Mountain and NATATDT are in a gully behind the pinnacle, and the other routes on a wall to the right. Climbs are described left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Big Man

Short and crimpy little climb at the left end of wall.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2011

24Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Wildey on Wheels

Starts 10m left of baby pinnacle on main wall. Through bulges passing 2 RBs to ledge then up following bolts to slightly tricky finish and DBB..

FA: V Wills, 2011

19Sport 20m, 10
3 Baby Pinnacle

Bouldery start then up front of pinnacle to anchors

FA: J Wilde, 2010

16Sport 10m, 4
4 Aerial acrobat

at base of gully, on small pinnacle. Common anchors on top of pinnacle

FA: V Wills, 2011

20Sport 11m, 5
5 Shortcomings

On small pinnacle closest to MM, need to rap off.

FA: V Wills, 2011

20Sport 9m, 4
6 * Man Mountain

The steep white overhung rock behind the baby pinnacle

FA: Aaron Sphinx

22Sport 15m, 4
7 Man mountain direct

Start 2m left of MM, up the crack on gear.

19Sport 15m
8 Nick and the Amazing technicolour Dream Tights

The overhanging blunt arete in the gully opposite the pinnacle. Easier if you are tall.

FFA: V Wills, 2011

22Sport 15m, 6
9 Bumbled Beginings

The left hand end of the big slab. Fixed hangers.

FA: Aaron Sphinx

14Sport 18m, 6
10 Tractor Tippin

Climb 4m right of arete, up fixed hangers.

16Sport 18m
11 The Devil Wears Prana

3rd route on the buttress. Care clipping second bolt if short. Has own anchors.

FA: Aaron Spinks, 2006

19Sport 18m, 6
12 Devil Diect

Up past 3 rings to rejoin TDWP at it'3rd last hanger.

20Sport 15m
13 * Muffin top

FA: Nick kaz., 2006

20Sport 18m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 Bumbled Beginings Sport 18m, 6 1.3. Bumble Buttress
16 Rotten Rock'n Rollen Rockmellon Sport 12m 1.1. The Dreaming Wall
Baby Pinnacle Sport 10m, 4 1.3. Bumble Buttress
Tractor Tippin Sport 18m 1.3. Bumble Buttress
19 Man mountain direct Sport 15m 1.3. Bumble Buttress
The Devil Wears Prana Sport 18m, 6 1.3. Bumble Buttress
Wildey on Wheels Sport 20m, 10 1.3. Bumble Buttress
20 Yo mama Sport 15m 1.2. No cams area
Aerial acrobat Sport 11m, 5 1.3. Bumble Buttress
Devil Diect Sport 15m 1.3. Bumble Buttress
* Muffin top Sport 18m 1.3. Bumble Buttress
Shortcomings Sport 9m, 4 1.3. Bumble Buttress
21 Trickey Dickey variant finish Sport 15m 1.2. No cams area
* Tricky Dickey Sport 17m 1.2. No cams area
22 * Man Mountain Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Bumble Buttress
Nick and the Amazing technicolour Dream Tights Sport 15m, 6 1.3. Bumble Buttress
24 *** Look mum, no cams! Sport 18m 1.2. No cams area
* Big Man Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Bumble Buttress
25 * Look mum no tendons Sport 18m 1.2. No cams area
26 * The Wake Up Call Sport Project 15m 1.1. The Dreaming Wall
27 Portion Control Sport Project 20m, 5 1.2. No cams area
28 *** The Beast Factor Sport 18m 1.2. No cams area
? Dreaming Right Hand Varient Sport Project 1.1. The Dreaming Wall
*** Ya Dreaming (crispy project) Sport Project 18m 1.1. The Dreaming Wall
? Project Tim 2 Sport Project 18m, 6 1.2. No cams area