A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. West side Alum mountain 32 routes in Area

Sport, Trad and Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. Boiler wall 17 routes in Area

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Trents Trench

Up the green chimney then step across into corner/crack system to DBB

FA: Trent, 2011

18Sport 26m, 13 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

It looks poxy but surprisingly nice climbing. Would rate at Araps even.

2 Fern crack

Up crack, step left around arete to anchors when it peters out. Trad

FA: J Wilde

15Trad 12m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Not great, green in many respects.

3 Destined to be a classic

Mixed gear, continue right from the top of fern crack

20Trad 25m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Second half is wandery and good, but needs more traffic

4 Johnny 1

Stick clip first bolt, then boulder to ledge. Slab and arete climbing to anchors at half height of wall

FA: JRW, 2011

21Sport 15m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Bouldery start then nice slabbing

5 Johnny 2

The left route, up to ledge, long draw on bolt to right then follow bolts until traverse right to shared anchor

20Sport 15m Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

Hard start then average slab

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Easier start, interesting move towards anchors

6 Pitch Two

From the shared anchors of Johnny 1 or Johnny 2 continue up and step left at roof past 4 more bolts to fixed carabiners at DBB

18Sport 10m Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

A waste of time. Look for the spray painted bolts. Better yet, don't.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Nice exposure, a 60m rope gets you down easily

7 Mud and Munters

Same start as Johnny2 but go left after first bolt. Continue past RB and FH at 18 m- not the anchor through overlap and traverse right to join anchor of Pitch 2. Best if someone seconds to clean.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

19Sport 25m, 12 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

It was wet and muddy and rope too short to lower off. Epic. If John comes up with a name I will r...

8 Left arete

right arete of sentry box to start, through small roof then up slightly suspect rock to anchors back on ledge.

FA: J Wilde

21Sport 25m, 11 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Trad moves with bolts (and suss rock)

9 The answering offwidth

start left of sentry box up crack to shared anchors of left arete.

FA: J Wilde, M Foster, 2012

16Sport 25m
10 Slab 4

The side of slabby pinnacle just left of main boiler wall, 6 carrots and 1 RB. Common anchors for all 4 routes on top of block.

FA: J Wilde, 2012

14Sport 16m, 9 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

NIce easy route

11 Slab 3

Start from toe of arete and up

FA: J Wilde

10Sport 16m, 7 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Pleasant enough apart from the pollen

12 Slab 2

Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves

FA: J Wilde

10Sport 12m, 6 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

good beginners area

13 Slab 1

Start off platform above track, near corner (left most of slab routes). Shared anchors on top of block for all routes

FA: J Wilde

13Sport 12m, 6 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

A little more slabby than the others- but might have been the pollen coating every hold

14 Diagonal Route

Route starts on platform left of Slab 1. 1st Bolt its on right side of arete, then follow the crack around to the left. Face climbing to the top. DBB.

Set by JRW, 2013

22Sport 16m
15 Forestry

Straight up face to shared anchors and final bolt of DR

FA: JRW, 2013

21Sport 16m
16 Embankment 1

On the pinnacle immediately below the track , below left arete of boiler wall. Left route.

FA: John and Trent?

18Sport 12m, 6 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Quite pumpy, but juggy

17 Embankment 2

On the pinnacle imediately below track, below left arete of boiler wall. Right route. Goes to shared anchors

20Sport 12m, 5 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Good moves around second bolt, the end a bit discontinuous

1.2. Woodie Wall 9 routes in Unknown

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Trotting

Route on 4 carrots at left end of wall. 1 RB and 1 bolt on top of block

FA: Trotter

23Sport 10m, 4 Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

A death trap of a climb in bad need of a good clean. Every hold for the first 5 metres is loose.

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Low jugs a bit flexing but fun moves

2 ProVW

Up very steep wall past assorted FHs and RBs to new anchor on top of block

Sport Project 12m
3 VW proj

Up seam past scoop to downward facing flake. Watch the snake :-)

Sport Project 10m, 4
4 * Time to Fly

Overhanging left facing flake

FA: V Wills, 2012

22Sport 10m, 4 Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

Not worth the hike

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Full value for the short. Perhaps tall people need to sit start.

5 * Lime tree Arbour

Up shattered looking seams to offwidth section then left to shared anchors of time to fly

FA: V Wills, 2012

22Sport 10m, 6 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Felt good on this today, Nick Cave theme developing?

6 Feeling Good

Mistakenly retrobolted. Starts up lime tree arbour and crosses to TTF

FA: S Trotter, 1997

21Trad 12m
7 Half century Fox

Steep looking offwidth. Climbs well. DRB anchors in situ.

FA: Marcelo Laca, Shane Trotter, 1997

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

20Trad 10m Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Happy birthday Mick. Fortunately no off width technique needed

8 * Tradvesty

Past bomber trad placements, or high stick clip, 2 RBs to anchors

FA: D Gray, 2012

22Sport 8m, 4 Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

Not a bad climb but why not an extra bolt?

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Daves gone to the dark side. Very Nowra but fun.

9 Ascending to the Rut

Past one carrot into crack.

FA: Trotter, 1997

Trad 15m

1.3. Uni buttress 4 routes in Unknown

Sport and Trad

A north facing orange buttress accessed from the lookout track

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bug Bears

5 glue in bolts (need bolt plates) to shared ring bolt anchors with crack

FA: Trotter, 1997

19Sport 20m, 5 Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

lower offs would help.

2 ** Universal crack

Up the crack line after intricate start that needs small gear.

FA: J Wilde, V Wills, 2006

24Trad 20m Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

Just like araps. Orange trad route!

3 * Spring into Spring

From the ledge head up the flake then onto the left arete to own set of anchors to left of arete

FA: V Wills, 2012

24Sport 12m, 7 Jimmy Mullan 12 months ago

More enjoayable as a face climb.

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Classic arete moves after starting at flakes.

4 * Wild night bolting

To the right of the left arete (closest to the lookout track)

FA: J Wilde, 2012

17Sport 15m, 8 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

One of the nicer sub 20 climbs at Buladelah

1.4. Main Ridge Line 2 routes in Unknown

Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mels stolen mega route

FA: Melina Beecroft, 2007

19Unknown 40m Vanessa Wills 6 years ago

2 nice overhangs. (mixed gear)

2 ** Juggers dilemma variant

Pitch 1: right trending diagonal to belay on sloping ledge 12m. Pitch 2 up to roof and diagonally left up crack 12m. Pitch 3: up overhanging corner right (crux) topull onto lichenous slab and meander up this for another 20 metres.

22Trad 55m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Slab 2 Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
Slab 3 Sport 16m, 7 1.1. Boiler wall
13 Slab 1 Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
14 Slab 4 Sport 16m, 9 1.1. Boiler wall
15 Fern crack Trad 12m 1.1. Boiler wall
16 The answering offwidth Sport 25m 1.1. Boiler wall
17 * Wild night bolting Sport 15m, 8 1.3. Uni buttress
18 Embankment 1 Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
Pitch Two Sport 10m 1.1. Boiler wall
** Trents Trench Sport 26m, 13 1.1. Boiler wall
19 Mud and Munters Sport 25m, 12 1.1. Boiler wall
* Bug Bears Sport 20m, 5 1.3. Uni buttress
* Mels stolen mega route Unknown 40m 1.4. Main Ridge Line
20 Destined to be a classic Trad 25m 1.1. Boiler wall
Embankment 2 Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Boiler wall
Johnny 2 Sport 15m 1.1. Boiler wall
Half century Fox Trad 10m 1.2. Woodie Wall
21 Forestry Sport 16m 1.1. Boiler wall
Johnny 1 Sport 15m 1.1. Boiler wall
Left arete Sport 25m, 11 1.1. Boiler wall
Feeling Good Trad 12m 1.2. Woodie Wall
22 Diagonal Route Sport 16m 1.1. Boiler wall
* Lime tree Arbour Sport 10m, 6 1.2. Woodie Wall
* Time to Fly Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
* Tradvesty Sport 8m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
** Juggers dilemma variant Trad 55m 1.4. Main Ridge Line
23 * Trotting Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
24 * Spring into Spring Sport 12m, 7 1.3. Uni buttress
** Universal crack Trad 20m 1.3. Uni buttress
? Ascending to the Rut Trad 15m 1.2. Woodie Wall
ProVW Sport Project 12m 1.2. Woodie Wall
VW proj Sport Project 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall