A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. West side Alum mountain 32 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. Boiler wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Trents Trench

Up the green chimney then step left across into corner/crack system to DBB

FA: Trent Wright, 2011

18Sport 26m, 13
2 Fern crack

The crack left of the chimney of TT, step left around arete to anchors when it peters out.

FA: Adam Bramwell, Mike Ramplin, 1998

16Trad 18m
3 Nosey Walker

Mixed gear, continue right from the top of fern crack

FA: John Wilde, 2011

20Trad 25m
4 Babcock

Stick clip first bolt, then boulder to ledge. Slab and arete climbing to anchors at half height of wall, best to continue to top lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2011

21Sport 18m
5 Wilcox

The left route, up to ledge, long draw on bolt to right then follow bolts until traverse right to shared lower off.

FA: Daniel Wilde, 2011

19Sport 15m
6 Pitch Two?

From the shared anchors of Johnny 1 or Johnny 2 continue up and step left at roof past 4 more bolts to fixed carabiners at DBB

18Sport 10m
7 Fire Tube

2m left of the arete, same start as for Wilcox, but continue going left, up to separate lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

20Sport 20m
8 Ned Kelly

Start in the small alcove, up through small rooflet, then follow crack to anchors. Climb on fixed hangers.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

21Sport 25m, 11
9 Bush Ranger

Start as for Ned Kelly, but go left and up the crack/offwidth.

FA: J Wilde, M Foster, 2012

16Trad 25m
10 Free Trader

The side of slabby pinnacle just left of main boiler wall, 6 hox bolts and 1 RB. Common anchors for all 4 routes on top of block.

FA: J Wilde, 2012

14Sport 16m, 9
11 Thunder Bolt

Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts.

FA: J Wilde

10Sport 16m, 7
12 Thunder Bolt (Variant)

Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves. Hex Bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

10Sport 12m, 6
13 Out Of Sight

In the gully between slab and wall on the left, up hex bolts staying right of the gully, to anchor on top. P2: Continue all the way to the top of the wall on gear. Hex bolts on P1.

FA: John Wilde, 2012

13Mixed 12m, 6
14 Diagonal Route

Route starts on platform left of Slab 1. 1st Bolt its on right side of arete, then follow the crack around to the left. Face climbing to the top. DBB.

FA: John Wilde, 2013

Set by JRW, 2013

22Sport 16m
15 Forestry

The left route on the wall. A tough start leads to some wandering climbing.

FA: John Wilde, 2013

21Sport 16m
16 Embankment 1

On the pinnacle immediately below the track , below left arete of boiler wall. Left route.

FA: John and Trent?

18Sport 12m, 6
17 Embankment 2

On the pinnacle imediately below track, below left arete of boiler wall. Right route. Goes to shared anchors

20Sport 12m, 5

1.2. Woodie Wall 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Trotting

Route on 4 carrots at left end of wall. 1 RB and 1 bolt on top of block

FA: Trotter

23Sport 10m, 4
2 ProVW

Up very steep wall past assorted FHs and RBs to new anchor on top of block

Sport Project 12m
3 VW proj

Up seam past scoop to downward facing flake. Watch the snake :-)

Sport Project 10m, 4
4 * Time to Fly

Overhanging left facing flake

FA: V Wills, 2012

22Sport 10m, 4
5 * Lime tree Arbour

Up shattered looking seams to offwidth section then left to shared anchors of time to fly

FA: V Wills, 2012

22Sport 10m, 6
6 Feeling Good

Mistakenly retrobolted. Starts up lime tree arbour and crosses to TTF

FA: S Trotter, 1997

21Trad 12m
7 Half century Fox

Steep looking offwidth. Climbs well. DRB anchors in situ.

FA: Marcelo Laca, Shane Trotter, 1997

FA: V Wills, D Gray, 2012

20Trad 10m
8 * Tradvesty

Past bomber trad placements, or high stick clip, 2 RBs to anchors

FA: D Gray, 2012

22Sport 8m, 4
9 Ascending to the Rut

Past one carrot into crack.

FA: Trotter, 1997

Trad 15m

1.3. Uni buttress 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

A north facing orange buttress accessed from the lookout track

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bug Bears

5 glue in bolts (need bolt plates) to shared ring bolt anchors with crack

FA: Trotter, 1997

19Sport 20m, 5
2 ** Universal crack

Up the crack line after intricate start that needs small gear.

FA: J Wilde, V Wills, 2006

24Trad 20m
3 * Spring into Spring

From the ledge head up the flake then onto the left arete to own set of anchors to left of arete

FA: V Wills, 2012

24Sport 12m, 7
4 * Wild night bolting

To the right of the left arete (closest to the lookout track)

FA: J Wilde, 2012

17Sport 15m, 8

1.4. Main Ridge Line 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mels stolen mega route

FA: Melina Beecroft, 2007

19Unknown 40m
2 ** Juggers dilemma variant

Pitch 1: right trending diagonal to belay on sloping ledge 12m. Pitch 2 up to roof and diagonally left up crack 12m. Pitch 3: up overhanging corner right (crux) topull onto lichenous slab and meander up this for another 20 metres.

22Trad 55m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Thunder Bolt Sport 16m, 7 1.1. Boiler wall
Thunder Bolt (Variant) Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
13 Out Of Sight Mixed 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
14 Free Trader Sport 16m, 9 1.1. Boiler wall
16 Bush Ranger Trad 25m 1.1. Boiler wall
Fern crack Trad 18m 1.1. Boiler wall
17 * Wild night bolting Sport 15m, 8 1.3. Uni buttress
18 Embankment 1 Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Boiler wall
Pitch Two? Sport 10m 1.1. Boiler wall
** Trents Trench Sport 26m, 13 1.1. Boiler wall
19 Wilcox Sport 15m 1.1. Boiler wall
* Bug Bears Sport 20m, 5 1.3. Uni buttress
* Mels stolen mega route Unknown 40m 1.4. Main Ridge Line
20 Embankment 2 Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Boiler wall
Fire Tube Sport 20m 1.1. Boiler wall
Nosey Walker Trad 25m 1.1. Boiler wall
Half century Fox Trad 10m 1.2. Woodie Wall
21 Babcock Sport 18m 1.1. Boiler wall
Forestry Sport 16m 1.1. Boiler wall
Ned Kelly Sport 25m, 11 1.1. Boiler wall
Feeling Good Trad 12m 1.2. Woodie Wall
22 Diagonal Route Sport 16m 1.1. Boiler wall
* Lime tree Arbour Sport 10m, 6 1.2. Woodie Wall
* Time to Fly Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
* Tradvesty Sport 8m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
** Juggers dilemma variant Trad 55m 1.4. Main Ridge Line
23 * Trotting Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall
24 * Spring into Spring Sport 12m, 7 1.3. Uni buttress
** Universal crack Trad 20m 1.3. Uni buttress
? Ascending to the Rut Trad 15m 1.2. Woodie Wall
ProVW Sport Project 12m 1.2. Woodie Wall
VW proj Sport Project 10m, 4 1.2. Woodie Wall