A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. East side Alum mountain 42 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

1.1. Tea wall 13 routes in Area

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Russian Caravan

Up past thin crack to ledge then diagonally right through overlap

FA: V Wills, 2013

23 Sport 12m
2 John and Chrispys sapling crack

Thin diagonal crack on wall with sapling at half height. Dirty, but possible to top rope now from anchors of CC. Takes thin gear

22 Trad 12m
3 Calming Camomile (project)

Start up cracks to high first bolt then up arete moving right to anchor

FA: V Wills, Dave Gray, 2013

21 Sport 12m
4 Aussie Ocker

Climb the north facing wall just left of corner chimney.

FA: John Wilde, 2006

20 Sport 15m
5 ** T For Tim

Up the vague arete, going left into flake the up the wall to lower off as for Aussie Ocker.

FA: John Wilde, 2005

24 Sport 16m
6 ** Waylo

Just left of arete, up to diagonal flake, then trend right and continue up to high lower off.

FA: John Wilde, 2005

23 Sport 16m

Left route on the main wall before the gully/chimney.

FA: Daniel Wilde, 2005

24 Sport 15m
8 Armageddon

Using both walls, climb the line of bolts in the chasm between the 2 main walls. It will be the hardest grade 12 ever if short.

FA: David Gray, 2013

12 Sport 10m, 3
9 * BlackButt

As for A, but up the left side of the chasm between the two main walls as a face climb

FA: D Gray, V wills, 2013

18 Sport 10m
10 Brown Nose

Crack at left side of chasm to tree, then continue up arete with little gear to anchors of BB/A.

FA: Unknown

10 Trad
11 * Johnny 26

On white wall on FHs, 2m R of GATG. Up through bulges to anchors

FA: Daniel Wilde, 2013

23 Sport 10m, 5
12 Grandad Vs The Goanna

The great smooth white rock. Thin moves up to good jugs before the final sequence.

FA: John Wilde, 2005

23 Sport 15m
13 My kitchen rules

Start up hanging chimney below the left arĂȘte of the Grandpa and the Goanna wall. Up chimney then follow bolts up and right.

FA: Dave Gray, Vanessa Wills, 2013

21 Sport 15m, 5

1.2. Grandpa wall 13 routes in Area

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wedgetail Politics

Start up in gully at right end of wall on lovely orange rock past 3 RBs

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

19 Sport 8m, 3
2 * Nessbot

Start just right of offwidth following thin crack and funky threader to diagonal crack trending right at 2/3 height to finish on anchors of WTP

FA: David Gray, Vanessa Wills, 2013

17 Trad 15m
3 Poppy-bot

The offwidth. At top of crack place some small gear and step left to anchors of PE

FA: Vanessa Wills, David Gray, 2013

12 Trad 15m
4 Pa excellence

1m left of crack up white crack into orange alcove, then after clipping 3rd bolt step left onto arete and up.

FA: Vanessa Wills, David Gray, 2013

17 Trad 15m
5 Three Pops 14 Trad 15m
6 Grumpy Old Men 18 Trad 15m
7 Top of the Pops 15 Trad 15m
8 Johnnys new route 19 Trad 15m
9 Dirty Old Man

FA: JRW, 2008

19 Trad 18m
10 Dirt Bag

The left route on hex bolts. Often dirty from runoff on the wall above.

FA: John Wilde, 2005

17 Sport 15m
11 Sucia negra

1m right of route on FHs. Climb thin crack with RP protection, finishing directly up the unprotected slab.

FA: David Gray, 2013

15 Trad 15m
12 Dirty Monkey

Up the slab past 3 fixed hangers, often covered in dirt and pine needles. Anchors are under there somewhere.

FA: Melanie Wilde, 2005

14 Sport 15m
13 * Blancanieves

bold climbing up the white streak several metres left of FH route. An old hanger less bolt stud at half height offers the only protection, though is after the crux.

FA: David Gray, 2013

17 Mixed 15m, 1

1.3. Argument Wall 8 routes in Area

Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 left hand trad route 16 Trad 20m
2 * Lost my Rag

Now has RB at start- stick clip, then small trad gear passing final RB and up to shared anchors

Set by JRW

FA: John Wilde, 2005

16 Trad 20m
3 * The Argument

4 bolts in about 17m. Small cam will go between 2nd and 3rd bolt . Start 2m left of crack that bisects wall.

FA: John Wilde, 2005

22 Trad 20m
4 * Crack behind tree / Ex- conifer crack

The tree is only a stump now. Up to shared anchors to left

21 Trad 20m
5 Chris and Johns Crack 17 Trad 25m
6 * Al Miner

Up home made FHs passing small ledge to large ledge. Small wires then needed for pro, to final bolt and up to DRBB

FA: John Wilde

20 Sport 17m, 5
7 Charbonner

Awkward and overhung start onto dirty slab. Go up to ledge then left to finish as for route on FHs

FA: Joh Wilde, 2012

22 Sport 17m, 6
8 Pitch 2 ?

After reachng ledge go right. Belayer cannot see from ground, so best to do as a second pitch. Very bouldery up diagonal to own DBB


23 Sport 6m, 3

1.4. The Gift Wall 8 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hanging garden

Start under corner/rooflet heading right after bulge to avoid the orchids

FA: VWills, 2012

21 Sport 20m, 8
2 *** The Gift

The arete to the left of the chimney

FA: J Wilde

23 Sport 20m, 8
3 * House with no steps

The bolted climb on the left of the chimney.

FA: John Wilde

16 Sport 20m
4 Inverted staircase

From inside chimney start as for Direct staircase but go striaght up through roof to same anchors. A medium cam may help below roof if draw is not on. A bit run out and lichenous.

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, 2012

21 Sport 15m, 5
5 Direct staircase


16 Trad 20m
6 * Spiral staircase

On the right of the chimney, past a hanger,to finish in the crack out right. An alternate finish goes out left at halfway.

FA: John Wilde, Chris Bentham, 2006

15 Trad 20m
7 Project John

Straight up immaculate white rock 2m left of hanging arete

Set by John Wilde, 2012

Sport 15m
8 Lego Man Hands

Up the hanging arete with a tough start. Project tag still on due to loose block. Finishes on common anchors on top of block

FA: Daniel Wilde

25 Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Brown Nose Trad 1.1. Tea wall
12 Armageddon Sport 10m, 3 1.1. Tea wall
Poppy-bot Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
14 Dirty Monkey Sport 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Three Pops Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
15 Sucia negra Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Top of the Pops Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
* Spiral staircase Trad 20m 1.4. The Gift Wall
16 * Lost my Rag Trad 20m 1.3. Argument Wall
left hand trad route Trad 20m 1.3. Argument Wall
Direct staircase Trad 20m 1.4. The Gift Wall
* House with no steps Sport 20m 1.4. The Gift Wall
17 * Blancanieves Mixed 15m, 1 1.2. Grandpa wall
Dirt Bag Sport 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
* Nessbot Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Pa excellence Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Chris and Johns Crack Trad 25m 1.3. Argument Wall
18 * BlackButt Sport 10m 1.1. Tea wall
Grumpy Old Men Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
19 Dirty Old Man Trad 18m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Johnnys new route Trad 15m 1.2. Grandpa wall
Wedgetail Politics Sport 8m, 3 1.2. Grandpa wall
20 Aussie Ocker Sport 15m 1.1. Tea wall
* Al Miner Sport 17m, 5 1.3. Argument Wall
21 Calming Camomile (project) Sport 12m 1.1. Tea wall
My kitchen rules Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Tea wall
* Crack behind tree Trad 20m 1.3. Argument Wall
Hanging garden Sport 20m, 8 1.4. The Gift Wall
Inverted staircase Sport 15m, 5 1.4. The Gift Wall
22 John and Chrispys sapling crack Trad 12m 1.1. Tea wall
Charbonner Sport 17m, 6 1.3. Argument Wall
* The Argument Trad 20m 1.3. Argument Wall
23 Grandad Vs The Goanna Sport 15m 1.1. Tea wall
* Johnny 26 Sport 10m, 5 1.1. Tea wall
Russian Caravan Sport 12m 1.1. Tea wall
** Waylo Sport 16m 1.1. Tea wall
Pitch 2 ? Sport 6m, 3 1.3. Argument Wall
*** The Gift Sport 20m, 8 1.4. The Gift Wall
24 LMNOP Sport 15m 1.1. Tea wall
** T For Tim Sport 16m 1.1. Tea wall
25 Lego Man Hands Sport 15m 1.4. The Gift Wall
? Project John Sport 15m 1.4. The Gift Wall