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Description

Start up the lookout track. At the boiler turn right, steeply up the hill passing a prominent boulder. More scree leads to the cliffs up to the left. The arete is in the middle of the wall

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * Jack Sparrow Trad 20m

The corner crack heading right at half height into offwidth and then up to anchors on arete. Not good after rain.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

2

After clipping the first 3 bolts of the arete step left for a two bolt variation in the middle of the face on thin holds. This leads to quite different climbing to the left of the upper bolts for a further 5 metres before rejoining the original route.

3
18 ** Arete-a-Black Sport 20m

Left side of the arete. Long slings recommended for unique pigtail anchors if you wish to top rope or lower.

FA: Frankie

4
18 ** Engineers Arete Sport 20m

Up the right side of the arete.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

5
Abandoned Unknown 15m

This was never done, and now the hangers removed leaving just bolts.

6
24 * The Jackhammer symphony Sport Project 30m, 12

Start just right of a vegetated trench up vertical wall on technical slopers. Then easy but very pleasant jugging to finish on ledge shared with room with a view. Abseil off.

FA: V Wills, 2012

7
23 The Black Pearl Sport 20m

The slabby route in the middle of the wall, finishes at 2/3 height on DBB.

FFA: Daniel Wilde

FA: John Wilde

8
18 Room with a View Sport 40m, 14

At base of blunt arete follow FHs. An interesting step left at the fourth bolt sees you on easier ground. A second needs to clean. The climb finishes on a ledge with expansive views and rap anchors. A single 60m rope wil get you down on rappel into the gully.

FA: John Wilde

9
17 Lion Trad 8m

Start at left leaning hand crack just to left of chasm. Small roof at 2m to overcome. Up to small tree.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

10
10 Falcon Trad 20m

Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

11
14 Panther Trad 25m

Starts under boulder in gully and goes up the lower diagonal crack into a sentry box then up wide crack and over juggy slab to tree belay

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013