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Start up the lookout track. At the boiler turn right, steeply up the hill passing a prominent boulder. More scree leads to the cliffs up to the left. The arete is in the middle of the wall

Access issues inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Walking through the state forest is fine but DO NOT CLIMB south of the lookout. Permission has been granted by the new landholders to climb on the northern part of the cliffs. This includes the Beehive, Fiegs overhang and the Cave. However getting there is tricky. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Do not cross at the water reservoir or trespass on the northwest side of the ridge. Parking down near the golf course, then skirting the southern boundary of the golf course will keep you on the land we have permission to access. Hopefully a map of this will appear soon.

Ethic inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.


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Grade Route

The corner crack heading right at half height into offwidth and then up to anchors on arete. Not good after rain.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

After clipping the first 3 bolts of the arete step left for a two bolt variation in the middle of the face on thin holds. This leads to quite different climbing to the left of the upper bolts for a further 5 metres before rejoining the original route.

Left side of the arete. Long slings recommended for unique pigtail anchors if you wish to top rope or lower.

FA: Frankie

Up the right side of the arete.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

This was never done, and now the hangers removed leaving just bolts.

Start just right of a vegetated trench up vertical wall on technical slopers. Then easy but very pleasant jugging to finish on ledge shared with room with a view. Abseil off.

FA: V Wills, Aug 2012

The slabby route in the middle of the wall, finishes at 2/3 height on DBB.

FFA: Daniel Wilde

FA: John Wilde

At base of blunt arete follow FHs. An interesting step left at the fourth bolt sees you on easier ground. A second needs to clean. The climb finishes on a ledge with expansive views and rap anchors. A single 60m rope wil get you down on rappel into the gully.

FA: John Wilde

Start at left leaning hand crack just to left of chasm. Small roof at 2m to overcome. Up to small tree.

FA: D Gray & V Wills, Apr 2013

Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge.

FA: D Gray & V Wills, Apr 2013

Starts under boulder in gully and goes up the lower diagonal crack into a sentry box then up wide crack and over juggy slab to tree belay

FA: D Gray & V Wills, Apr 2013


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