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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vanessa Wills Chris Bentham

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Black arete 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad,Sport and ?
Description:

Start up the lookout track. At the boiler turn steeply up the hill passing a prominent boulder. More scree leads to the cliffs up to the left. The arete is in the middle of the wall

Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Parking can get a bit congested at times so it is best to carpool if possile. If heading to the Goat Cave then do not drive in or park in front of the gate as the neighbouring landowner has indicated he doesn't want cars blocking access to his property. Park to the side of the gate and walk the fire trail.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 * Corner crack

The corner crack heading right at half height into offwidth and then up to anchors on arete. Not good after rain.

17
Trad 20m
Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

better than it looks

2 Micks variant on Arete a black

After clipping the first 3 bolts of the arete step left for a two bolt variation in the middle of the face on thin holds. This leads to quite different climbing to the left of the upper bolts for a further 5 metres before rejoining the original route.

21
Unknown 18m
Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

a reasonable variation with a long deadpoint crux

3 *** Arete a Black

the left side of the arete. Long slings recommended for unique pigtail anchors if you wish to top rope or lower.

FA: Frankie,

18
Unknown 20m
Jason Smith 8 months ago

Kind of hard to figure if this goes left, right or straight up?

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

good find Frankie

4 *** Engineers arete
18
Sport 20m
Jason Smith 8 months ago

Nice arete on Ngungun style black rock

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

interesting incuts

5 Route to Right of EA

This was never done, and now the hangars have been nicked leaving just bolts.

Unknown 15m
6 * The Jackhammer symphony

Start just right of a vegetated trench up vertical wall on technical slopers. Then easy but very pleasant jugging to finish on ledge shared with room with a view. Abseil off.

FA: V Wills, 2012

24
Sport Project 30m , 12
Jason Smith 8 months ago

Thanks to Tim for cleaning and beta

Vanessa Wills 9 months ago

Perfect friction day- cold and dry helped.

7 Hard slab route

The slabby route in the middle of the wall, finishes at 2/3 height on DBB.

FA: J Wilde, D Wilde,

23
Sport 20m
Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

tricky for a 23, use a great thumb catch and throw to an undercling

8 Room with a view

At base of blunt arete follow FHs. An interesting step left at the fourth bolt sees you on easier ground. A second needs to clean. The climb finishes on a ledge with expansive views and rap anchors. A single 60m rope wil get you down on rappel into the gully.

FA: J Wilde,

19
Sport 40m , 14
Jason Smith 8 months ago

Hard start to a long easy ramble

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

harsh rock at first, then nice slab to great belay

9 Lion

Start at left leaning hand crack just to left of chasm. Small roof at 2m to overcome. Up to small tree.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

17
Trad 8m
Vanessa Wills 4 weeks ago

Needs cleaning. Seconded Dave

10 Falcon

Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

10
Trad 20m
Vanessa Wills 4 weeks ago

Pleasant easy ramble in joggers. Seconded Dave

11 Panther

Starts under boulder in gully and goes up the lower diagonal crack into a sentry box then up wide crack and over juggy slab to tree belay

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

14
Trad 25m
Vanessa Wills 4 weeks ago

Wet and nearly knocked over by rock that rolled down ramp. Seconded Dave.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Falcon Trad 20m
14 Panther Trad 25m
17 * Corner crack Trad 20m
Lion Trad 8m
18 *** Arete a Black Unknown 20m
*** Engineers arete Sport 20m
19 Room with a view Sport 40m , 14
21 Micks variant on Arete a black Unknown 18m
23 Hard slab route Sport 20m
24 * The Jackhammer symphony Sport Project 30m , 12
? Route to Right of EA Unknown 15m