A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Engineers Arete 11 routes in Area

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Start up the lookout track. At the boiler turn right, steeply up the hill passing a prominent boulder. More scree leads to the cliffs up to the left. The arete is in the middle of the wall

Access Issues: inherited from Bulahdelah

Major access issues in all areas at present. Avoiding the area is best strategy at present(dec 2015) or risk inflaming the situation. A landowner to the north is alleging climbers have damaged his property. Avoid private landholdings and do not trespass.

Ethic: inherited from Bulahdelah

If you intend to bolt then it is best to speak to the locals as they will inform you of the do's and don'ts of bolting in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jack Sparrow

The corner crack heading right at half height into offwidth and then up to anchors on arete. Not good after rain.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

17 Trad 20m
2 Micks variant on Arete a black

After clipping the first 3 bolts of the arete step left for a two bolt variation in the middle of the face on thin holds. This leads to quite different climbing to the left of the upper bolts for a further 5 metres before rejoining the original route.

21 Sport 18m
3 ** Arete-a-Black

Left side of the arete. Long slings recommended for unique pigtail anchors if you wish to top rope or lower.

FA: Frankie

18 Sport 20m
4 ** Engineers Arete

Up the right side of the arete.

FA: John Wilde, 2009

18 Sport 20m
5 Abandoned

This was never done, and now the hangers removed leaving just bolts.

Unknown 15m
6 * The Jackhammer symphony

Start just right of a vegetated trench up vertical wall on technical slopers. Then easy but very pleasant jugging to finish on ledge shared with room with a view. Abseil off.

FA: V Wills, 2012

24 Sport Project 30m, 12
7 The Black Pearl

The slabby route in the middle of the wall, finishes at 2/3 height on DBB.

FFA: Daniel Wilde

FA: John Wilde

23 Sport 20m
8 Room with a View

At base of blunt arete follow FHs. An interesting step left at the fourth bolt sees you on easier ground. A second needs to clean. The climb finishes on a ledge with expansive views and rap anchors. A single 60m rope wil get you down on rappel into the gully.

FA: John Wilde

18 Sport 40m, 14
9 Lion

Start at left leaning hand crack just to left of chasm. Small roof at 2m to overcome. Up to small tree.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

17 Trad 8m
10 Falcon

Start at right hand end of Engineers wall on top of boulder in gully. Diagonal crack goes up and right to belay on tree on ledge.

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

10 Trad 20m
11 Panther

Starts under boulder in gully and goes up the lower diagonal crack into a sentry box then up wide crack and over juggy slab to tree belay

FA: D Gray, V Wills, 2013

14 Trad 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Falcon Trad 20m
14 Panther Trad 25m
17 * Jack Sparrow Trad 20m
Lion Trad 8m
18 ** Arete-a-Black Sport 20m
** Engineers Arete Sport 20m
Room with a View Sport 40m, 14
21 Micks variant on Arete a black Sport 18m
23 The Black Pearl Sport 20m
24 * The Jackhammer symphony Sport Project 30m, 12
? Abandoned Unknown 15m